Talion Vitavon gears, are they worth it?

[Rootbeer]

After my 3rd rear sun gear stripped from my v2 Talion this year, im now looking for stronger alternatives, Came across Vitavon on ebay, ive heard good stuff about them, are they really better than stock? i have 31mm gears so EXB isnt really an option

 

[rotauq]

I haven't tried vitavon myself, only others. But if you are running stock electronics and not doing things like full throttle landings, stock diffs should be fine. In my experience drive (pinion) gears wear faster than ring gears.
It's more likely the diffcasings have too much play or perhaps you might be overshimming them?

 

[parcou]

After my 3rd rear sun gear stripped from my v2 Talion this year, im now looking for stronger alternatives, Came across Vitavon on ebay, ive heard good stuff about them, are they really better than stock? i have 31mm gears so EXB isnt really an option

View attachment 389850

Before spending that money...I would look into shimming not just the diff placed into the diff cup. Input gear as well. If not doing what Rotaug said you should be good if well shimmed.

 

[Rootbeer]

I haven't tried vitavon myself, only others. But if you are running stock electronics and not doing things like full throttle landings, stock diffs should be fine. In my experience drive (pinion) gears wear faster than ring gears.
It's more likely the diffcasings have too much play or perhaps you might be overshimming them?

I have the center diff locked, for offroad speedruns and when getting airtime the rear often touches the ground before the front and thats what causes the diff to strip, I go easy on the throttle when launching it, of course hard landing will strip anything but im looking for stronger gears as a backup

Before spending that money...I would look into shimming not just the diff placed into the diff cup. Input gear as well. If not doing what Rotaug said you should be good if well shimmed.

for the shims, is it better to over tighten or to let a little bit loose?

 

[hobo]

I haven't had any trouble with my diffs on my talion v3 for years.

 

[rotauq]

I have the center diff locked, for offroad speedruns and when getting airtime the rear often touches the ground before the front and thats what causes the diff to strip, I go easy on the throttle when launching it, of course hard landing will strip anything but im looking for stronger gears as a backup

consider arrma GP6 diffs, straight cut diffs and more teeth can take more abuse. I also have a locked center in my fireteam

for the shims, is it better to over tighten or to let a little bit loose?

You should still hear a clicking sound when you wiggle. But again bringing up the plastic diffcases, especially when speedrunning/powerlanding/locked centerdiff
they certainly have some give/play. Might still look good but deform quickly and you can't shimm for that

 

[Rootbeer]

consider arrma GP6 diffs, straight cut diffs and more teeth can take more abuse. I also have a locked center in my fireteam

You should still hear a clicking sound when you wiggle. But again bringing up the plastic diffcases, especially when speedrunning/powerlanding/locked centerdiff
they certainly have some give/play. Might still look good but deform quickly and you can't shimm for that

lots of useful stuff to keep in mind, thanks for the knowledge , I am however confused about the straight teeth, I thought spiral was stronger due to more surface contact with the only downside being less efficiency,

also what diffs would you recommend? GP6 is 45T so that already looks like a worthy upgrade

 

[rotauq]

lots of useful stuff to keep in mind, thanks for the knowledge , I am however confused about the straight teeth, I thought spiral was stronger due to more surface contact with the only downside being less efficiency,

also what diffs would you recommend? GP6 is 45T so that already looks like a worthy upgrade

In an ideal situation a well shimmed high precision spiral cut wins on all aspects. But in a realistic, more abusive situation, crude straight cuts will take a lot more beating in my opinion. GP6's on my non-stock fireteam have already proven to be a blessing. Though I need to weigh in my specific driving/throttle characteristics. I am really soft on my initial throttle.
My advise would be to stay at the stock diffs, replace the diffcases (treat them as a consumable, regardless how good they still look) and shimm correctly. Alu cases and/or GP6 diffs only if it really doesn't hold up, which they with stock electronics and good control should with ease

 

[DLK83]

I beat my 6s Outcast like a rented mule, EXB center diff, and standard V5 front and rear diffs shimmed properly and oil weight at 300 front and 250 rear, never have a problem with gears... and when I say BEAT, I mean hitting a pretty big ramp at 45mph+ and doing double and triple backflips, and occasionally landing on a little throttle only because I had to burp it at the last second to pull out the landing... aluminum diff housings, and properly shimmed gears of almost any kind, and you should be golden, just my humble .02

 

[RC Steve]

I have Vitavon gears on my Kraton, I think they're the best out there. An Arrma EXB ring and input gear combo cost $40.00 so there isn't much of a price difference. I like them enough so I plan on getting a set for my "other brand of 6s truggy".

We don't use the "T" word in polite company.

 

[Steve B in Vegas]

Spiral

https://blog.wcbranham.com/straight-vs-spiral-bevel-gearboxes

 

[DLK83]

Spiral

https://blog.wcbranham.com/straight-vs-spiral-bevel-gearboxes

This^^^^ I don't understand how that's still an argument, it's been explained, proven, and shown in so many different ways. Straight cut gears are purely a cost saving endeavor, they're cheaper to make/machine and are old technology

 

[Rootbeer]

I have Vitavon gears on my Kraton, I think they're the best out there. An Arrma EXB ring and input gear combo cost $40.00 so there isn't much of a price difference. I like them enough so I plan on getting a set for my "other brand of 6s truggy".

We don't use the "T" word in polite company.

This^^^^ I don't understand how that's still an argument, it's been explained, proven, and shown in so many different ways. Straight cut gears are purely a cost saving endeavor, they're cheaper to make/machine and are old technology

Steve you've convinced me, im getting the Vitavon gears, the GP6s are straight cut plus higher teeth count means different gear ratio, I would have to buy 2 sets of GP6 for the front and rear for them to match, thanks everyone for your input!

and Steve, good luck with your "other company" truggy lol

 

[Steve B in Vegas]

Steve you've convinced me, im getting the Vitavon gears, the GP6s are straight cut plus higher teeth count means different gear ratio, I would have to buy 2 sets of GP6 for the front and rear for them to match, thanks everyone for your input!

and Steve, good luck with your "other company" truggy lol

I'll need all the luck I can get with that thing. Just be sure to grease the gears and you'll be solid!

s

 

[Moirae]

I don't think I've ever stripped a sun gear in my life. I did have one crack in half in my 8s felony though

 

[MrTitanium]

I have all the Vitavon gears in my BR. All Vitavon stuff in my drivetrain, actually. Very well machined components. I took my sweet time blueprinting everything as I run a Max 6 G2 with matching 1650kv motor and everything had to be tight.

If you have the scratch, go for it. If not, blueprint your existing units the best you can.

 

[parcou]

for the shims, is it better to over tighten or to let a little bit loose?

Shimming, as I have learned from a lot of people here and some good videos, takes some time to get the right feel. It will not resolve all issues, but it sure helps.

When I shim a diff, I like it fit and snug. I do have the stock plastic diffs. I know the next time I check them, they will be a bit loose, so I may need to add a 1mm shim. For example, I shim a rear diff where there is no side-to-side movement if possible. I will go tighter but not binding before going loose, or I cannot remove the little tick. As for the input gear, I like to have the diff in my hand so that when I shim the input, I can see how much of the input teeth are pushed up/inward toward the diff. I will add shims to get the input closer to the diff. Before I am done with the diff in hand, I put the diff cover plate on and tighten the 4 screws to make sure there is no binding. It's a feel and a sound you will grow to learn when it is correct. I certainly like to hear more of the metal sound of the gears when well meshed. Again, it is not binding. If it is a bit snug again, it's a feel I know; I will keep it there since it will wear in. It's never hard to turn or bind.... It's not a loose free turn or free spin, either. For my 6S bashers, FT, Talion, Kraton, etc, with plastic diffs, it has been good once I got shimming down.

All my Losi rigs were bad as stock and stripped gears until I shimmed it the way Losi should have. In some cases with the best shimming, a metal diff case is needed. It certainly was so with the 1/5 Losi DBXL-E plastic case, which had too much flew.

Your style with your rigs will help determine the next step if shimming does not get you there.

I don't think I've ever stripped a sun gear in my life. I did have one crack in half in my 8s felony though

Brother, this speaks volumes based on how well you bash!!! Props

 

[Lil Dylan]

Shimming, as I have learned from a lot of people here and some good videos, takes some time to get the right feel. It will not resolve all issues, but it sure helps.

When I shim a diff, I like it fit and snug. I do have the stock plastic diffs. I know the next time I check them, they will be a bit loose, so I may need to add a 1mm shim. For example, I shim a rear diff where there is no side-to-side movement if possible. I will go tighter but not binding before going loose, or I cannot remove the little tick. As for the input gear, I like to have the diff in my hand so that when I shim the input, I can see how much of the input teeth are pushed up/inward toward the diff. I will add shims to get the input closer to the diff. Before I am done with the diff in hand, I put the diff cover plate on and tighten the 4 screws to make sure there is no binding. It's a feel and a sound you will grow to learn when it is correct. I certainly like to hear more of the metal sound of the gears when well meshed. Again, it is not binding. If it is a bit snug again, it's a feel I know; I will keep it there since it will wear in. It's never hard to turn or bind.... It's not a loose free turn or free spin, either. For my 6S bashers, FT, Talion, Kraton, etc, with plastic diffs, it has been good once I got shimming down.

All my Losi rigs were bad as stock and stripped gears until I shimmed it the way Losi should have. In some cases with the best shimming, a metal diff case is needed. It certainly was so with the 1/5 Losi DBXL-E plastic case, which had too much flew.

Your style with your rigs will help determine the next step if shimming does not get you there.




Brother, this speaks volumes based on how well you bash!!! Props

I've thought about using some gear-marking compound to get the mesh perfect. Just for fun really but have never gotten around to it.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-800...15f-bb4b-a664be2e1e90&pd_rd_i=B000HBM86Q&th=1

 

[RC Steve]

I don't think I've ever stripped a sun gear in my life.

I've never stripped one either, but I have broken the back sides off of loads of EXB sun gears. I think running the center diff a bit thinner to allow some of the power to go to the front does more than the fancy gears. The fancy gears do help and I still recommend Vitavon gears.

 

[hobo]

I don't think I've ever stripped a sun gear in my life. I did have one crack in half in my 8s felony though

I've never stripped one but broke plenty in half