Kraton vitavon, hot racing OR integy bulkhead?

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In all honesty I use the hot racing ones because I use the stock plastic diff covers (even though I have all the aluminum parts here) and that's because if you use the plastic cover then the is almost no weight increase (less than 5g for both F&R bulkheads over stock)

The diff covers are disproportionately heavy and simply not worth it.

Literally one diff cover weighs more than converting both diff housing to aluminum.

Think about that, alloy diff covers (just the cover!) are not worth it at any price
They look nice! :ROFLMAO:
 
In all honesty I use the hot racing ones because I use the stock plastic diff covers (even though I have all the aluminum parts here) and that's because if you use the plastic cover then the is almost no weight increase (less than 5g for both F&R bulkheads over stock)

The diff covers are disproportionately heavy and simply not worth it.

Literally one diff cover weighs more than converting both diff housing to aluminum.

Think about that, alloy diff covers (just the cover!) are not worth it at any price
I’m swapping out all 50ish screws over to titanium on the FT shell to save the weight. Bling and bling!
 
They look nice! :ROFLMAO:

I’m swapping out all 50ish screws over to titanium on the FT shell to save the weight. Bling and bling!

Well bling bling would be a good reason, I'm just personally more turned on by the cars performance than what it looks like.

Used to use titanium all the time too, but easy to strip. So I mix screws. Into composite it's stainless or titanium. Into aluminum it's steel.

Found no need for a hardened steel screw going into plastic/composite.

Changing 50 screws over will be at least an ounce of weigh savings.
 
Well bling bling would be a good reason, I'm just personally more turned on by the cars performance than what it looks like.

Used to use titanium all the time too, but easy to strip. So I mix screws. Into composite it's stainless or titanium. Into aluminum it's steel.

Found no need for a hardened steel screw going into plastic/composite.

Changing 50 screws over will be at least an ounce of weigh savings.
Makes sense! you're a racer iirc? :cool: (y)
 
Makes sense! you're a racer iirc? :cool: (y)
Yeah something like that, I'm mostly using our private racetrack. Many in our group are true racers, traveling to events and winning trophies. So I'm not a sponsored pro like those guys, but we do all play together and have a few beers.

I consider it a beer league for RC :)
 
Well bling bling would be a good reason, I'm just personally more turned on by the cars performance than what it looks like.

Used to use titanium all the time too, but easy to strip. So I mix screws. Into composite it's stainless or titanium. Into aluminum it's steel.

Found no need for a hardened steel screw going into plastic/composite.

Changing 50 screws over will be at least an ounce of weigh savings.
The 50 m2.5 will only save me about 10grams of top weight, there’s a few other big ones under there that I also swapped. All in all I’m guessing about 15-20 grams of the top. My precise scale couldn’t weigh the entire shell to see.

I agree on stripping titanium screws. I do have some exciting news to share! I recently got a Milwaukee hand bit driver, and this thing is freaking awesome. I went from stripping screws quite frequently, to almost never now. It even stepped in and rescued the day on the pinion gear I thought I stripped. Coming in at only $18 for the full setup… I’m just blown away, and had to share this Milwaukee Bit driver - Metric.

Also, if you’re looking for titanium screws you wont strip, get you some Acer Racing. Secondly, I really like 1up racing screws. Especially their 8mm servo lockdown screws. A warning, the Milwaukee bit driver will not work with most Acer screws I have, all the others they will. For Acer I just use my regular bit driver from Amazon and don’t strip any.
 
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