Granite Voltage cutoff

[Caffeine]

So I upgraded my motor to a 10T, works well, but I was having issues with the new motor over pulling from the batteries and SRS ESC shutting down on me. using both li-ion X6 of them.. and Lipo 2s.. they are old lipos and small for this car..so that may be the issue..

Set to NiMh. Problem solved.. it has a lower voltage cutoff so it doesn't kick in. probably at all. so be carful not to kill your batteries.. but my car runs with out stopping so I'm happy.. Time to invest in some batteries..

Ps.. 3s.. flashing blue light and the car will not run.. I tried..

 

[sadlerbw]

Ps.. 3s.. flashing blue light and the car will not run.. I tried..

Yep. I tried that as well. You can trick the ESC into running with a 3S, but it requires a soldering iron and messing with teeny tiny resistors, plus there is a big capacitor you have to replace. It isn’t practical.

If you don’t like giving up your LVC warning, there are cheap little alarms you can buy that plug into the balance lead of a Lipo. It won’t shut the car down, but the screeching alarm sound is usually pretty easy to hear!

 

[Caffeine]

Yep. I tried that as well. You can trick the ESC into running with a 3S, but it requires a soldering iron and messing with teeny tiny resistors, plus there is a big capacitor you have to replace. It isn’t practical.

If you don’t like giving up your LVC warning, there are cheap little alarms you can buy that plug into the balance lead of a Lipo. It won’t shut the car down, but the screeching alarm sound is usually pretty easy to hear!

Keep talking Yes i have the alarms.. there pretty annoying.. tend to go off and keep going off.. until the car sits still for 5 seconds.. then you hit the throttle hard and they alarm again.. I'm using quad copter batteries. so there small.. 1800mAh.. are my big ones. 1300mAh are my typical..
As for the 3s mod.. I'm in!! how do I do it? I'm electronics by trade.. so I have access to all the components and I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron. just not sure what needs to be done. I also have a brushless setup on order so if I really mess it up.. well I can swap it all out

Thanks for the help.
this is the brushelss setup I ordered, I"m little worried since there is no slipper on this unit.. and diff cups are already spinning out.. I need a slipper Dog bone

https://www.banggood.com/9T-4370KV-...=myaccout-bottom-alsolike__1&cur_warehouse=CN

 

[sadlerbw]

There is a real simple two resistor voltage divider that the ESC uses to watch the battery voltage. You just have to replace the resistors with new ones that divide 11.1v down to the same value as the stock resistors do for 7.4v. I forget the exact ratio you need for 3S off the top of my head but I do have a few pictures to help. The first is a picture of the two resistors that need to be replaced on the board. The second is my test voltage divider for 3S. I didn’t have the exact resistor values I needed, so I just used several standard value ones in series to get what I needed, just to see if it would work. The annoying part is that the stock ones are super-tiny SMD resistors and a huge pain to manipulate with big clumsy hands! I just pulled them off entirely, soldered a couple regular sized resistors together, and ran a wire back to the pad that goes into the ESC.

You also have to replace the electrolytic capacitor. The stock one is only rated for 10v, so you need to dig up a capacitor that is about the same size and can handle more than 12.6v. That one is really easy to solder, it’s just a matter of being short enough to fit inside the ESC housing! Oh, and in my pictures the capacitor is on the wrong side of the board, because it was too big to fit in the case so it didn’t matter!

Anyway, if you replace the diff cups with one of the metal ones that fit, you should be ok. I’ve been running my voltage on a brushless 3S setup for a couple months now and the gears and diff are still doing fine.