Voltage Hobbies Front Talion Chassis brace

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bicketybam

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Granite
  3. Infraction
  4. Kraton 8S
  5. Kraton 6s
  6. Kraton 4s
  7. Mojave
  8. Notorious
  9. Talion
  10. Typhon 6s
This is the second time I've had the cap head sheer off and unfortunately there really isn't a solution for getting out the broken screw shaft. I have the Voltage front chassis braces in my Notorious and my Typhon and I don't have an issue with them. It's really odd. I ended up drilling the screw out and widening the hole to accepts an M3 that I ran all the way through. I used a lock not on the end.

The broken screw:
20190722_111026.jpg


My "fix"

20190722_170711.jpg
 
Ive seen a few people do that who were having that issue. You could also drill it out so a m4 screw will fit for just a little more strength.
If I got a new one that is what I would do for sure.
 
Ive seen a few people do that who were having that issue. You could also drill it out so a m4 screw will fit for just a little more strength.
To be honest... I think I'd still drill it out, use a 4mm bolt and nut on the back side. Or at the very least, use a bolt that is too long so you have something to get a pair of pliers on from the back side when it shears off.
 
To be honest... I think I'd still drill it out, use a 4mm bolt and nut on the back side. Or at the very least, use a bolt that is too long so you have something to get a pair of pliers on from the back side when it shears off.
I just don't understand why I am only having this problem with the Talion front brace. Very strange. I'm just glad I was able to drill it through. I really didn't want to buy another.
 
I think when I installed my hot racing one on my outcast, I used a bolt that was too long as I was expecting it to break off. I think I did shear it off once.

Is the top plate that yours keys into good? Wonder if the bottom edge where the brace keys into it is rounded off a bit or something which would help allow the brace to shove under it.
 
I think when I installed my hot racing one on my outcast, I used a bolt that was too long as I was expecting it to break off. I think I did shear it off once.

Is the top plate that yours keys into good? Wonder if the bottom edge where the brace keys into it is rounded off a bit or something which would help allow the brace to shove under it.

Brace is fine. I just checked.
 
Had the exact same thing happen to me last week on my Noto front GKA brace.

View attachment 43698
That blows. I'm tried drilling it out and went through the side of the brace so it's pretty much f@cked. I'm running an M2C chassis so I just threw the stock plastic one back on. I have two more if this one breaks. I really don't want to buy another Voltage one especially if I don't need it.
 
I just don't understand why I am only having this problem with the Talion front brace. Very strange. I'm just glad I was able to drill it through. I really didn't want to buy another.
I have had this issue also multiple times. Like literally every bash session.Went the drill, M4 screw and nut route a few months back and it’s been smooth sailing since.
 
I have had this issue also multiple times. Like literally every bash session.Went the drill, M4 screw and nut route a few months back and it’s been smooth sailing since.
Thanks for letting us know ??
If I get any more I will definitely go that route ??
 
That blows. I'm tried drilling it out and went through the side of the brace so it's pretty much f@cked. I'm running an M2C chassis so I just threw the stock plastic one back on. I have two more if this one breaks. I really don't want to buy another Voltage one especially if I don't need it.
I don't even bother trying to drill anymore... without a press and a proper vise, drilling the screw is a pain. I just slot it with a dremel as gingerly as I can to avoid damaging the part too much, heat it with a torch and usually it comes out.
 
I’ve drilled out screws before. Most recent was the HR hub barrel nut that the axle snapped off inside of. I drilled it by hand with my Milwaukee M12 Fuel drill and held the nut with channel locks. Not ideal but I got it out. Ran a tap through it after to make sure the threads were good. Back on my Granite and works.
 
I don't even bother trying to drill anymore... without a press and a proper vise, drilling the screw is a pain. I just slot it with a dremel as gingerly as I can to avoid damaging the part too much, heat it with a torch and usually it comes out.
You can't slot these, olds. No f@cking way. It's below the brace.
 
You can't slot these, olds. No f@cking way. It's below the brace.
Get a new bit and some Tap Magic and drill it super slow. Drill the smallest bit you can. Keep stepping up bit size until you get to the pre-tap size. Then run a tap through it with more lube. Should go well. ??
 
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So I just read this thread and now I have to wonder. Should I be proactive and get this done before it snaps? It's one thing that hasn't happened yet, but since I'm reading this today..............
 
I bet you are snapping these because the front shocks are shorter and the chassis is slapping a bit more? I don’t think Arrma intended these things to be jumped like some of you guys do even though they air out nicely. I could be wrong
 
So I just read this thread and now I have to wonder. Should I be proactive and get this done before it snaps? It's one thing that hasn't happened yet, but since I'm reading this today..............
This has happened to all my Arrmas with the Talion, Typhon, and Kraton being the most common. It’s only happened to my Outcast/Notorious once or twice so I wouldn’t jump the gun just yet if it hasn’t happened to you yet. What I would do though is just replace the stock screw with a longer one so if it ever does snap on you you’ll be able to pull the broken screw out with ease salvaging the brace. Then bust out the drill and start drilling ?.
 
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