Granite Voltage runs then stops with 2s battery

[stompah]

Hi guys,

Got my son a Granite Voltage in January. Ran it on the stock battery and it was fine. Then we used one of the 2s batteries I use for my Typhon. We moved the jumper over. It was fine the first time we used it. Second time is where we ran into issues. It would run for a minute or two then then the motor would become unresponsive. Lights would flash on the ESC. Disconnect battery and reconnect then it would run fine. Once it sat around for a minute or two same scenario. Switched to a different brand battery and it ran fine. Then the next session it happened again and then again. And then again and again. At first I thought I had a bum battery. Went far enough to blast battery in a review on Amazon. Now I am not so sure that was the right thing to have done.

That battery that I blasted on Amazon worked fine in my Typhon the first time this happened. Which meant it had plenty of voltage left in it. I checked the cells with a multimeter and they were very close in voltage. The next time it happened it would not power my Typhon when I put the battery in.

Motor overheats when sitting? I tore it up today ballooning the tires as I hopped curbs and tore up some grass. As long as I was using it it ran fine. Did not matter how hard I pushed it, it never faulted. Once I stopped to do something the motor would become unresponsive again. The jumper is always in the lipo position.

I called Arrma/Hobby a few weeks ago and the rep had no idea what was wrong. Said he would ask a coworker who had a Voltage if he recognized the problem. Forgot to send over the receipt. Next time I heard from him was to close the case. I sent the receipt so let's see what happens with them.

But I would appreciate it if anyone has run into this problem who found a solution could share.

 

[SrC]

Possibly a bad connector on the Granite Voltage ESC?
That SRS ESC uses a T-plug connector. (Deans "Knock-Off" connector) They are very bad. And lose contact easily. Some batteries will work some wont. Been there with my Crawlers, Bad T-plugs. There wear out very fast. And work Intermittently sometimes. Better to use XT 60's or EC3 connectors for running 2s Lipos to begin with at minimum, both on the ESC and you batteries. And never use an adapter between the ESC and the Battery.
HH may warranty it. But honestly, that whole Voltage ESC servo and Receiver ALL in ONE setup is just horrible. You are not alone. Search for threads here regarding this. Many just upgrade to a new SEPARATE Servo, ESC, and Receiver. a New Brushed setup. It may just cost you some $ if you don't warranty it.
I think the connector is the main issue. The way you described what's happening.
I would NOT attempt further or continue running it until you sort it out with HH first.
Those T-plugs can short out and cause a fire.

 

[stompah]

My ec3 connector has one plug pushed in. I mentioned that to Hobby. Hopefully they send one out and I can solder it on.

 

[dure16]

My ec3 connector has one plug pushed in. I mentioned that to Hobby. Hopefully they send one out and I can solder it on.

I know it’s not free but it’s fast:

https://www.amazon.com/E-flite-EC3-Device-Battery-Connector/dp/B000GY2XTQ

 

[stompah]

It's less the cost. More the fear of soldering it and then them claiming that voids the warranty on the ESC.

 

[dure16]

The link I posted is genuine parts sold by Horizon Hobby. Exactly the same as far as I can tell. They’d never know.

However, I don’t think you need them. Your pictures make it look like all you need to do is push that one side back into the blue piece.

Point the open side of the blue piece downward on a table, with the wires sticking straight up. Then slide a small flathead screwdriver next to the wire to push the gold part back down into the blue piece. It’ll click.

I think that’s all you need to do.

 

[stompah]

I am a big dude. Tried it a few times. Its like its jammed.

I got a big bleeping clamp. Going to do that tomorrow with a screw driver bit on the end.

 

[stompah]

So I got it fixed with the clamp. After about 5 minutes of running the negative solder join on the motor came off. So, I will be repairing that tonight.

HH got back to me and they are sending a replacement ESC.

 

[Jamezzh]

Esc back ordered? I was told I wouldn't see my replacement until May

 

[dure16]

Esc back ordered? I was told I wouldn't see my replacement until May

I’ve been waiting since mid-January.

 

[stompah]

I guess we will see. I have a new issue that just popped up.

The motor spins the wheels when they are off the ground. Once they have resistance something is slipping. Both gears are engaged properly, the differential must be damaged. Is there a slipper clutch?

 

[dure16]

I guess we will see. I have a new issue that just popped up.

The motor spins the wheels when they are off the ground. Once they have resistance something is slipping. Both gears are engaged properly, the differential must be damaged. Is there a slipper clutch?

There is no slipper clutch. Check your out drive cups since they are a weak point and easy to replace. If not that, check your spur gear (pull it all the way out and check the internal portion as well). If not that, it’s likely the internal diff and will require an entire chassis split. Good luck.

 

[stompah]

Gears on both ends of the large plastic spur gear look good. Gear that it meshes with inside the frame looks good also.

One cup looks mint, the other a little bit messy. It looks like that bearing let go of it's grease and it's got dirty grease where the differential shaft slides into it. I'll clean it tomorrow and post a pic.