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Granite Voltage Series Diff Outdrive Issues?
- Thread starter Thumper01
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- differential outdrive voltage
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GRspeed
Active Member
We blew/melted teeth on the small end of the spur gear after we installed a 550 12T Traxxas motor. It was faster but the way the gears looked was very strange.
So I'm waiting for the same parts...
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For me, i am going to stick with 2S 30C for now and tinker with those diff outdrives to get some reliable results for the blue one. I have decided not to use lipo in the red one and let my 5 year old boy bash around using the lion cells for now in the red one. Let see what happens. Hope to document some results to share here.
I had that happen to me. I'm putting a fan over the opening on top of the motor. I think because the shaft sits above the motor it heats up and melts it. The diff and idler gear had no damage. I had to order a new chassis also because it melted the bearing slot
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GRspeed
Active Member
Dood, that makes total sense. It was motor heat that caused the issue, NOT heat from friction between the gears. I thought it might have been some chemical reaction with the white lithium grease I had just applied that caused some kind of reaction with the plastic the gears were made out of.
We noted an abnormally silent car at one point. We had done a few top speed runs up and down the block when it flipped a few houses away sat upside down. My son ran to right it, but in the interim, the 13t motor was roasting and heat soaking everything around it including the adjacent spur gear and motor mount area.
The next two or three runs past us we both commented the car was weirdly quiet, almost silent. The heat softened gears must've been absorbing sound as they mushed away.
Yesterday, I installed a brushless system in my other Granite Voltage. It ran it without problems and stayed much, much cooler. Put another 50 minutes on it today with a 2s 6200mAh battery and not a single issue, plus it is even faster than the 550.
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You need to switch out your screws to metric hex. those Philips heads are terrible. looks like the motor mount holes are going to poop on u alsoDood, that makes total sense. It was motor heat that caused the issue, NOT heat from friction between the gears. I thought it might have been some chemical reaction with the white lithium grease I had just applied that caused some kind of reaction with the plastic the gears were made out of.
We noted an abnormally silent car at one point. We had done a few top speed runs up and down the block when it flipped a few houses away sat upside down. My son ran to right it, but in the interim, the 13t motor was roasting and heat soaking everything around it including the adjacent spur gear and motor mount area.
The next two or three runs past us we both commented the car was weirdly quiet, almost silent. The heat softened gears must've been absorbing sound as they mushed away.
Yesterday, I installed a brushless system in my other Granite Voltage. It ran it without problems and stayed much, much cooler. Put another 50 minutes on it today with a 2s 6200mAh battery and not a single issue, plus it is even faster than the 550.
GRspeed
Active Member
What about the cracks in the lower mounting holes? Wondering if I should replace the chassis, considering I'm gonna have it apart to repair the gearbox anyway.
What's your time estimate on parting the chassis out to swap out the internal gears? Also, what diff fluid should be installed?
Doesn't take long to take it apart but do yourself a favor and upgrade the screws. I was trying to reuse them and and a deep chassis screw stripped on me. Took more time getting that screw out than it did for the whole disassembly.
Cracks on the lower mounting holes: Mine also cracked in the same spot`!!! I'm making a slotted motor mount plate.
GRspeed
Active Member
Do you recommend anything specific or just getting some metric fasteners from the hardware store that are the same thread pitch and length with whatever head I prefer?
Yup hit the hardware store
I get mine from work which is handy
Just wanted to drop in and say I've been doing a little experimenting to see if I can find an off-the-shelf metal outdrive for some other vehicle that will fit the Voltage diff and dogbones. So far, the only one I found was a Team Losi part for the 8IGHT Buggy 3.0. The part number is TLR242003. I only got it put on last night, but it made it through a run with the stock motor and nothing was torn up and nothing seemed to be binding. I'm going to drop a brushless motor into my Granite Voltage this week, and that should be a better test, but for now it looks like a viable option. The biggest problem is that they are about $15 each, so we are talking a third of the cost of a whole Granite Voltage for two of them!
I've got several other outdrives that weren't even close, and so far nothing else I've tried has been drop-in. The second closest I found was a MIP part #08115 which is a replacement piece for their Traxxas Slash CVD kit. The bore that fits over the diff stub axle is fine, and it looks like it would fit the head of the dogbone, but the drive pin slots are only 0.1" instead of 3mm. I tried busting out a little diamond file to open them up, but 0.02" is bigger than it sounds when you are using a tiny little file! Anyway, I still have one more set of outdrives coming in that are a bit cheaper, but I think I'm going to stop buying trial parts after that since I found one that looks like, while it is expensive, it works as a drop-in replacement.
I've got several other outdrives that weren't even close, and so far nothing else I've tried has been drop-in. The second closest I found was a MIP part #08115 which is a replacement piece for their Traxxas Slash CVD kit. The bore that fits over the diff stub axle is fine, and it looks like it would fit the head of the dogbone, but the drive pin slots are only 0.1" instead of 3mm. I tried busting out a little diamond file to open them up, but 0.02" is bigger than it sounds when you are using a tiny little file! Anyway, I still have one more set of outdrives coming in that are a bit cheaper, but I think I'm going to stop buying trial parts after that since I found one that looks like, while it is expensive, it works as a drop-in replacement.
GRspeed
Active Member
Keep us posted, we are waiting with baited breath!
ran a 2S pack through the voltage using the 8ight outdrives this weekend and no problems so far. The brushless setup I put in runs a bit faster than stock. Nothing crazy yet. The motor is around 3200kv, but I put a 19t pinion on it to keep the speed up. The motor and ESC support 3S, so I may pick up a cheap 3S Lipo just to see if anything breaks.
Also, I found two more candidates that are cheaper then the 8ight parts and they should get to me next week, but those are the last ones I plan to try. Here is the stuff that DIDNT work so far:
Losi SCTE 2.0 outdrives
ST racing outdrives for their 1953x Slash universals
MIP outdrives for their Slash CVD kit.
All of those fit the diff stub axle, but not the dogbones. The dogbones are what makes this such a scavenger hunt. I can generally look at the parts diagrams for a vehicle that has an outdrive which looks like it might work, and use the bearing sizes to figure out if the outdrive is going to fit OK on the diff side. However, pretty much no manufacturer I looked at had the sizes of the pins or the heads of the dogbones listed anywhere. So, I pretty much took everything that looked reasonable on a couple of the major online retailers and checked to see if it would fit on the diff side. If it did, I ordered one!
Also, I found two more candidates that are cheaper then the 8ight parts and they should get to me next week, but those are the last ones I plan to try. Here is the stuff that DIDNT work so far:
Losi SCTE 2.0 outdrives
ST racing outdrives for their 1953x Slash universals
MIP outdrives for their Slash CVD kit.
All of those fit the diff stub axle, but not the dogbones. The dogbones are what makes this such a scavenger hunt. I can generally look at the parts diagrams for a vehicle that has an outdrive which looks like it might work, and use the bearing sizes to figure out if the outdrive is going to fit OK on the diff side. However, pretty much no manufacturer I looked at had the sizes of the pins or the heads of the dogbones listed anywhere. So, I pretty much took everything that looked reasonable on a couple of the major online retailers and checked to see if it would fit on the diff side. If it did, I ordered one!
GRspeed
Active Member
Bud, this is brilliant!
Keep us posted
Keep us posted
Quick update: I got one of the Kraton outdrives, part# AR310432, in the mail today and test fit it. It does pretty much fit both the diff output and the dogbones, so it could be an option. However, it has two annoyances. First, the bore that fits over the diff output was loose compared to most of the other stuff I’ve tried. It was only about 0.01”-0.02” larger, but the fit didn’t feel snug. Its possible I just got one with loose tolerances, but I can only check what I got. The second thing is that the base is almost the exact same size as the hole in the chassis where the diff output shaft comes out. I’m a little worried it might rub on the chassis and grind/melt some plastic away. I don’t think it would do enough damage to ruin the chassis, but i don’t like the idea of drivetrain stuff rubbing. I’ll put up pictures of the Losi 8ight part and the Kraton part so you can see what I mean. The Losi part is the one with a big hole in it, and the Kraton part is the solid one.
Also, I ran my Voltage on 3S again this weekend with the 8ight outdrives. The set screw on one of them worked loose and I had to re-tighten it, but other than that no breakage or problems yet.
Also, I ran my Voltage on 3S again this weekend with the 8ight outdrives. The set screw on one of them worked loose and I had to re-tighten it, but other than that no breakage or problems yet.
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Ok, last update from me. Tried two more parts. The one from the Redcat Shredder didn’t work; it didn’t fit the dogbone. However, the SWorks part for the S350 center diff did work! The part number is either SW-330661 or SWX-330661, depending on where you shop, but they are the same thing. I think the SWX-330661A will also work (just a different size set screw), but haven’t physically tested it. In my opinion, it fits better than The Kraton part, but maybe not quite as good as the Losi part. I wouldn’t hesitate to use it though. Anyway, the nicest part about the SWorks piece is that it is only $7 or $8! I’d say that makes it my #1 recommendation for a steel outdrive, with the Team Losi part #2 and the Kraton part #3. The Team Losi part is maybe a little better fit, but at half the price this new part has to be #1.
So, my final recommendations:
#1 - SWX-330661
#2 - TLR242003
#3 - AR310432
So, my final recommendations:
#1 - SWX-330661
#2 - TLR242003
#3 - AR310432
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Can do the same thing on the worn/stripped outdrives. Been thinking of doing this lately as an option. I think a 2mm or 3mm diameter at preferred lengthgrub screw would assist regardless if 5mm inside diameter of outdrives is worn or not. Best to start with worn/stripped ones first.
Today i drilled a stripped outdrive using 2.5mm drill bit then tapped hole to 3mm. 3mm crub screw fitted. Holes are drilled through the flat spot on the outdrive on both ends. Hoping this will add some "bite" to the flat area of the outdrive. Testing to be done. Will revert. See attached pictures.
