Vorteks Vorteks NO STEERING

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somedieyoung

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Hello all. I recently just got a 3s vorteks and it's been an incredible truck. I've been bashing it every day for about a week.

Anyways, I took it out for a run yesterday and the truck worked flawlessly until the very end of the run when it stopped steering completely. I thought it was perhaps because my battery was dead (although hadn't happened before). I charged the battery and took it out again today only to find that the truck still has no steering. Throttle works but no steering.

With the truck power off, the front wheels are quite hard to turn and the whole system feels tight and wound up. I know something is wrong but I'm just wondering what it could possibly be, as I am new to the mechanical side of RC.

Thanks for your time
 
If you can hear the servo trying to move you probably have a rock or acorn stuck in the bellcrank section. If you hear nothing or a twitchy sound your servo is cooked. S652 is the easiest replacement. Amazon and others are available as well but will need a 25t spline servo saver. Stock servo is known to fail. Set your endpoints so you don't over extend the servo and you will get a little bit more life out of them.
 
Hello all. I recently just got a 3s vorteks and it's been an incredible truck. I've been bashing it every day for about a week.

Anyways, I took it out for a run yesterday and the truck worked flawlessly until the very end of the run when it stopped steering completely. I thought it was perhaps because my battery was dead (although hadn't happened before). I charged the battery and took it out again today only to find that the truck still has no steering. Throttle works but no steering.

With the truck power off, the front wheels are quite hard to turn and the whole system feels tight and wound up. I know something is wrong but I'm just wondering what it could possibly be, as I am new to the mechanical side of RC.

Thanks for your time
Yeah. Was racing around and all of a sudden it went straight and couldn't turn. Needed a new servo

It happens.

I've done whst the other guy said and dialed the turing down by half.

Bit of learning to drive better made me realize I didn't need so much and none have broke since
 
Wow this literally happened to me this afternoon on mine. Ran a battery just fine, swapped for a fresh one and made a pass and the thing just went straight. Nothing bound up, no twitching or noise. Throttle is fine but they weren’t joking the stock servo is garbage. Now I’m on here looking to see which one I need to upgrade to. 2 months old and only 15 runs or so on it.
 
Well the Battery is obviously fine, if it still has Throttle. Just, Check your Servo wiring/Plug at the Receiver first(y)
The servo, stocker ones, are junk unfortunately. Many go through this. You can always get another Free Servo replacement under the Arrma 2 year warranty with your receipt , just that it will happen again and again. Not worth the hassle. (n)
Try an AMZ DS3235 35 KG servo. Only $34.00. I run like 9 of them in ALL my 6s rigs. You will need a matching 25t Spline Servo Saver however. 99% of upgrade servos are 25 Splined. Stocker Spectrum is likely 23 Splined. A common thing thing to do. Almost everyone with A 4x4/4x2 line Arrma ends up doing this. You are not alone.
So don't feel bad.
Some have had their servos crap out within the first battery pack.:giggle:
 
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Well the Battery is obviously fine, if it still has Throttle. Just, Check your Servo wiring/Plug at the Receiver first(y)
The servo, stocker ones, are junk unfortunately. Many go through this. You can always get another Free Servo replacement under the Arrma 2 year warranty with your receipt , just that it will happen again and again. Not worth the hassle. (n)
Try an AMZ DS3235 35 KG servo. Only $34.00. I run like 9 of them in ALL my 6s rigs. You will need a matching 25t Spline Servo Saver however. 99% of upgrade servos are 25 Splined. Stocker Spectrum is likely 23 Splined. A common thing thing to do. Almost everyone with A 4x4/4x2 line Arrma ends up doing this. You are not alone.
So don't feel bad.
Some have had their servos crap out within the first battery pack.:giggle:
I was just at fields hobby, and they told me putting a 25 tooth servo in there won’t last because it will fry because it will not respond fast enough for the AVC
 
Dude, find yourself another LHS..... Because they are pulling your chain with Pure B.S. unfortunately. Or they simply haven't a clue, just making crap up. Run quick from that LHS. Please....do yourself a big favor.
They are either full of crap, ignorant or Both. I would run for the hills and find another LHS. They are not being fair to you at all. Don't give them another Nickel!!
Sorry about being blunt and all. I feel your pain.
I been to many LHS's and dealt with BS before. This is absolutely 100% BS for sure. I don't know whether to laugh or cry.:cautious:
Myself ....35+ years of RC doing this. You can send them the link to my post here. I don't care what they think. I'll call them out!
Where is this "Fields Hobby shop, anyway??

>>>Need to be careful with LHS's. It's just a business. Many have no experience at all. While others are just thieves. They are just Parts Cannons pushing parts they want to sell. Not what you are asking for in many cases.

Hopefully others chime in here.
I know I can't be alone on this one.
Some LHS' really know how to take advantage of a New comer to this hobby. (n) (n) What ruins this hobby and discourages many new comers.:mad:
:cool:
 
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Dude, find yourself another LHS..... Because they are pulling your chain with Pure B.S. unfortunately. Or they simply haven't a clue, just making crap up. Run quick from that LHS. Please....do yourself a big favor.
They are either full of crap, ignorant or Both. I would run for the hills and find another LHS. They are not being fair to you at all. Don't give them another Nickel!!
Sorry about being blunt and all. I feel your pain.
I been to many LHS's and dealt with BS before. This is absolutely 100% BS for sure. I don't know whether to laugh or cry.:cautious:
Myself ....35+ years of RC doing this. You can send them the link to my post here. I don't care what they think. I'll call them out!
Where is this "Fields Hobby shop, anyway??

>>>Need to be careful with LHS's. It's just a business. Many have no experience at all. While others are just thieves. They are just Parts Cannons pushing parts they want to sell. Not what you are asking for in many cases.

Hopefully others chime in here.
I know I can't be alone on this one.
Some LHS' really know how to take advantage of a New comer to this hobby. (n) (n) What ruins this hobby and discourages many new comers.:mad:
:cool:
They gave me a new servo. I also bought a traxxas slash vxl while I waited for the guy to toss it in because for some reason my controller lost all calibration when I plugged in the new servo to verify that was the issue. Im going to buy that upgraded servo and keep it on deck. Im still waiting for a reply from Arrma on what they intend to do about this. Oh, one last thing, the traxxas slash vxl feels like cheap junk compared to the Arrma but it is fast
 
Dude, find yourself another LHS..... Because they are pulling your chain with Pure B.S. unfortunately. Or they simply haven't a clue, just making crap up. Run quick from that LHS. Please....do yourself a big favor.
They are either full of crap, ignorant or Both. I would run for the hills and find another LHS. They are not being fair to you at all. Don't give them another Nickel!!
Sorry about being blunt and all. I feel your pain.
I been to many LHS's and dealt with BS before. This is absolutely 100% BS for sure. I don't know whether to laugh or cry.:cautious:
Myself ....35+ years of RC doing this. You can send them the link to my post here. I don't care what they think. I'll call them out!
Where is this "Fields Hobby shop, anyway??

>>>Need to be careful with LHS's. It's just a business. Many have no experience at all. While others are just thieves. They are just Parts Cannons pushing parts they want to sell. Not what you are asking for in many cases.

Hopefully others chime in here.
I know I can't be alone on this one.
Some LHS' really know how to take advantage of a New comer to this hobby. (n) (n) What ruins this hobby and discourages many new comers.:mad:
:cool:


100% agree with @SrC about all of the above.

I'm still running my stock servo but 100% plan on the 35kg one mentioned. It's what hundreds of folks with Many years experience recommends as a replacement on these rigs.
 
Looks like A
100% agree with @SrC about all of the above.

I'm still running my stock servo but 100% plan on the 35kg one mentioned. It's what hundreds of folks with Many years experience recommends as a replacement on these rigs.
Arrma wants me to send it for repair because it keeps losing calibration also
 
I was just at fields hobby, and they told me putting a 25 tooth servo in there won’t last because it will fry because it will not respond fast enough for the AVC
Agree with @SrC 110%. The number of teeth on a servo has nothing to do with AVC. The stock servo is probably 23 tooth and Spectrum is the only one that I know of that has that standard. The number of teeth is literally the number of notched on the nubbin.
1704331488019.png

The length of the servo arm/horn can change the speed of the steering, but you can easily find the right length. There are like 100 companies that make servo horns. This is just some rando picture and not an endorsement.
1704331688170.png



They gave me a new servo. I also bought a traxxas slash vxl while I waited for the guy to toss it in because for some reason my controller lost all calibration when I plugged in the new servo to verify that was the issue. Im going to buy that upgraded servo and keep it on deck. Im still waiting for a reply from Arrma on what they intend to do about this. Oh, one last thing, the traxxas slash vxl feels like cheap junk compared to the Arrma but it is fast

The Slash has a lot of plastic but it is very durable. The plastic flexes and doesn't bend or break easily. Plastic is also lighter than aluminum. The only thing I've had to replace is a couple of axles. The axle stub likes to break where the pin goes through it. That's correctable by not driving like an idiot. Plenty of upgrades if you like. One thing I noticed with mine is that it likes to do back flips at high speed. The air gets under it and lifts the front end. It's only a problem when I'm full tilt boogie on pavement. It's fine off road, because it's not going nearly as fast.
 
Agree with @SrC 110%. The number of teeth on a servo has nothing to do with AVC. The stock servo is probably 23 tooth and Spectrum is the only one that I know of that has that standard. The number of teeth is literally the number of notched on the nubbin.
View attachment 340715
The length of the servo arm/horn can change the speed of the steering, but you can easily find the right length. There are like 100 companies that make servo horns. This is just some rando picture and not an endorsement.
View attachment 340717




The Slash has a lot of plastic but it is very durable. The plastic flexes and doesn't bend or break easily. Plastic is also lighter than aluminum. The only thing I've had to replace is a couple of axles. The axle stub likes to break where the pin goes through it. That's correctable by not driving like an idiot. Plenty of upgrades if you like. One thing I noticed with mine is that it likes to do back flips at high speed. The air gets under it and lifts the front end. It's only a problem when I'm full tilt boogie on pavement. It's fine off road, because it's not going nearly as fast.
I put 2 one ounce wheel weights on the front 🤣
 
There is nothing wrong with altering the weight bias of your rig to handle better.
As long as it it is done judiciously. Choosing 2 oz's of ballast weight is quite much sitting over the front axles in general. But I have gone that far before, With scale in hand when necessary.
I use my Digital Cross weight scale to setup all my new rigs, checking if they are balanced well enough for my liking. Done with full running weight, body on, lipo in place. Most are ok for bashing. Some not so. Just don't add all that much weight, too much, where it isn't really necessary. Only a scale can get you precise in many cases, i.e. on road stuff, or Racing platforms.

>>>Cross weight measurements count way more than Fr- Rr bias, IMHO. Achieving a 50%/50% cross weight truly makes a difference. F-R bias depending on the rig is rarely if ever 50/50. And usually by design.
And if anything, rear bias should be heavier, and usually is. How most RC platforms are designed. Easier to drive, less Nose diving. This is quite subjective to the rig in hand, and how and where you will drive it. A Chassis' CoG matters, and can be altered by the user.
I like my rigs lean and mean for the most part. More Weight can cause more breakage.
:cool:
 
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There is nothing wrong with altering the weight bias of your rig to handle better.
As long as it it is done judiciously. Choosing 2 oz's of ballast weight is quite much sitting over the front axles in general. But I have gone that far before, With scale in hand when necessary.
I use my Digital Cross weight scale to setup all my new rigs, checking if they are balanced well enough for my liking. Done with full running weight, body on, lipo in place. Most are ok for bashing. Some not so. Just don't add all that much weight, too much, where it isn't really necessary. Only a scale can get you precise in many cases, i.e. on road stuff, or Racing platforms.

>>>Cross weight measurements count way more than Fr- Rr bias, IMHO. Achieving a 50%/50% cross weight truly makes a difference. F-R bias depending on the rig is rarely if ever 50/50. And usually by design.
And if anything, rear bias should be heavier, and usually is. How most RC platforms are designed. Easier to drive, less Nose diving. This is quite subjective to the rig in hand, and how and where you will drive it. A Chassis' CoG matters. It can be altered by the user.
I like my rigs lean and mean for the most part. More Weight can cause more breakage.
:cool:

Unless your speed running a 2wd and trying to prevent back flips. Then you cram as much as possible up front to try and keep it down 😅

Screenshot_20240104_121006_Gallery.jpg
 
My Lim. dialed in very nice with about as much weight..... The Lim actually has a notched out area specifically for stacking front weight ballast. Just ahead of the Fr. tower and low on the Bumper. Many people don't know that.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/front-bumper/ARA320515.html

@Bustedaw11, I have those very same PL "Road Hawgs" on my RC10T and 10GT going back like 25 years. They balloon like mad crazy.:giggle:
They were supposedly a copy of the Scale 1:1 Goodyear tire treads at the time.
 
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Well, Horizon screwed me AGAIN! Joe P from support agreed to send me a new servo. I waited 3 weeks and they sent me a gear set! Why is their customer support so bad? 🤬🤬🤬
 
I never noticed that. Are you talking about the recessed squares and what fits in there?
1706285051076.png




There is always Liquid Gravity, I've never used it but it seems like a good idea. Looks like bird shot in a bottle.

 
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