Vorteks Vorteks underperfomring - Looking for advice

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MiamiRC

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Location
Miami, FL
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Typhon 3s
  3. Vorteks
Hi guys. I bought my daughter a Vorteks a few months back and it's underperforming expectations. When I run it side by side with my Typhon 3S in a drag race for example it just gets annihilated. I turned the punch up to 5. Checked and added a half turn on the slipper from stock and went up to the 20 tooth pinion (adding a bigger fan at the same time as I was concerned about cooling). It still wont pop a wheelie from a standstill on pavement, whereas my Typhon will basically flip over backwards. Maybe it's a bum motor or maybe we got it too hot one day at some point, I don't know. Looking at other threads it seems there are some great motor options out there like the Hobbystar 36xx motors at 3050 or 3100kv that direct fit but before I go that route I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on anything else I might try? Thank you for your advice as always. Love this community.
 
Is everything moving freely? No seized bearings?
Do you hear a high-pitch sound when you accelerate from a stand-still? If so that would indicate your slipper is still not tight enough.
Does it go faster on reverse?
Have you tried reprogramming the ESC?
 
The 20t pinion might be causing an issue, it has a much longer acceleration time compared to the stock 15t in the Typhon.
 
Is everything moving freely? No seized bearings?
Do you hear a high-pitch sound when you accelerate from a stand-still? If so that would indicate your slipper is still not tight enough.
Does it go faster on reverse?
Have you tried reprogramming the ESC?
Thanks.

1. Hadn't thought of the bearings so just pulled all the wheels and bearings are good. Did learn that all but one of the grub screws on the hex nuts behind the wheels had either backed out or was never tightened at the factory so fixed that.
2. No high pitched sound. The slipper is definitely tight, as I've tuned those before and have a decent sense of how that works.
3. Not faster in reverse.
4. Have not tried reprogramming the ESC. What is the thinking on how that would help?

Thanks!
The 20t pinion might be causing an issue, it has a much longer acceleration time compared to the stock 15t in the Typhon.
Thanks, I only put the 20t in place of the 18t after the issue started so it doesn't seem to make much difference. GIven that I may as well go back to the 18t and avoid the extra strain on the motor.
 
Before buying a new motor, maybe swap the motors between the two rigs to see if the problem follows the motor. Resetting the ESC/endpoints would be good to make sure it's really giving it 100% when the throttle is pinned.
 
4. Have not tried reprogramming the ESC. What is the thinking on how that would help?

I wrote reprogramming, but I meant recalibrating. If it is not calibrated correctly, you may not get the full throttle. Instructions in your Vorteks manual, p.17.

It's very easy to do, so it's worth trying that for sure before anything else.

Another thought: You are sure your remote is set to 100%?
 
My stock vorteks would hardly ever wheelie. I think it was designed to keep the tires on the ground compared to the rest of the Arrma 3s lineup. Now that it’s running 4s it’s hard to keep the front end down.
 
I agree with @FlipSide. You should recalibrate the ESC. Ive seen that fix a lot of issues where people were thinking something was broke. It should easily be as fast if not faster. It only takes a few seconds and then youll at least know its not that. Process of elimination.
Just to make sure I'm understanding, I did an ESC reset, i.e., basically holding the set button for 5 seconds and rebooting. Is that what you meant or were you guys talking something more than that when you say "recalibrate", like rebinding to the receiver for example and going through the whole receiver set up process?
 
Just to make sure I'm understanding, I did an ESC reset, i.e., basically holding the set button for 5 seconds and rebooting. Is that what you meant or were you guys talking something more than that when you say "recalibrate", like rebinding to the receiver for example and going through the whole receiver set up process?
Check your Vorteks manual at page 17 for the ESC calibration. There is a sequence that needs to be done. I could type it for you, but it's in the manual.
 
Just to make sure I'm understanding, I did an ESC reset, i.e., basically holding the set button for 5 seconds and rebooting. Is that what you meant or were you guys talking something more than that when you say "recalibrate", like rebinding to the receiver for example and going through the whole receiver set up process?
thank you
 
Check your Vorteks manual at page 17 for the ESC calibration. There is a sequence that needs to be done. I could type it for you, but it's in the manual.
Throttle calibration on pg. 17. This was it! Recalibrated throttle and now it's a beast again! You're my hero and my daughter's too! Cheers!
 
Just to make sure I'm understanding, I did an ESC reset, i.e., basically holding the set button for 5 seconds and rebooting. Is that what you meant or were you guys talking something more than that when you say "recalibrate", like rebinding to the receiver for example and going through the whole receiver set up process?
Glad you got it sorted!!
 
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