Typhon Warning to new v3 Typhon owners

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Dutch213

Jump it, Break it, Fix it
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Messages
2,145
Reaction score
2,103
Location
Rockaway, New Jersey
Arrma RC's
  1. Notorious
  2. Senton 6s
  3. Talion
  4. Typhon 6s
I just got my v3 Typhon yesterday and took the center diff apart to build my spool and it had basically ZERO fluid in it... I don't know if this is a trend with Arrma but i def suggest checking before running them...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3011.jpg
    IMG_3011.jpg
    175.6 KB · Views: 88
On this subject, has anyone researched some different o-rings and gaskets for the Arrma difs? Even after cleaning and shimming my difs, I noticed that the chassis is damp from dif fluid. This is while the truck has been sitting for at least a couple of weeks (too cold to run), and it's only ever been run a few times since new. The stock rings just don't seal well enough, even with 500k fluid, which is pretty thick. Also, for those who use the aluminum dif cups, do you find this to be the same issue?
 
On this subject, has anyone researched some different o-rings and gaskets for the Arrma difs? Even after cleaning and shimming my difs, I noticed that the chassis is damp from dif fluid. This is while the truck has been sitting for at least a couple of weeks (too cold to run), and it's only ever been run a few times since new. The stock rings just don't seal well enough, even with 500k fluid, which is pretty thick. Also, for those who use the aluminum dif cups, do you find this to be the same issue?
I used to fill my diffs nearly to the top of the cup as I observed in a YouTube vid. They always leaked. I realized I was overfilling, not leaving enough room for the planetary gear. I started filling only up to the satellite gear cross shafts and haven't had any diffs leak since. I also use black grease around the red O-ring.
 
I just got my v3 Typhon yesterday and took the center diff apart to build my spool and it had basically ZERO fluid in it... I don't know if this is a trend with Arrma but i def suggest checking before running them...

I don’t think this is limited to the Typhon or even Arrma. You should always check the diffs on an RTR. Just my opinion ?
 
my diffs in my teardown of NIB senton v3. Very little fluid and waxy chunks. I have seen the lack of fluid from all rtr manufacturers. My NIB x-maxx diffs were almost dry.
3E4C36E8-A7E5-4FDF-96BD-B8805AC90693.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I used to fill my diffs nearly to the top of the cup as I observed in a YouTube vid. They always leaked. I realized I was overfilling, not leaving enough room for the planetary gear. I started filling only up to the satellite gear cross shafts and haven't had any diffs leak since. I also use black grease around the red O-ring.
The nice thing about the Arrma cups though, is you have a bleeder hole. If you fill them up high, just remove the grub screw and excess bleeds out. Am I wrong for wanting the cup to be full?
 
The nice thing about the Arrma cups though, is you have a bleeder hole. If you fill them up high, just remove the grub screw and excess bleeds out. Am I wrong for wanting the cup to be full?
I don't feel it's necessary to aim to be completely void of any air such as in a shock. I think 80-90% full is good enough. Perhaps someone can correct me otherwise but I don't see any gain in aiming for 100% full vs 80-90%. My experience is the internal pressure from aiming for completely full results in leakage. While filling only up to the satellite gear cross shafts may look low, the planetary gear once inserted will displace most of the remaining air, leaving you with a nearly full diff.
 
Last edited:
On this subject, has anyone researched some different o-rings and gaskets for the Arrma difs? Even after cleaning and shimming my difs, I noticed that the chassis is damp from dif fluid. This is while the truck has been sitting for at least a couple of weeks (too cold to run), and it's only ever been run a few times since new. The stock rings just don't seal well enough, even with 500k fluid, which is pretty thick. Also, for those who use the aluminum dif cups, do you find this to be the same issue?
The issue with the center diff is that the diff cup is plastic and no matter how hard you try it's going to leak.
I switched to an aluminum diff cup with the factory o rings and gasket and it hasn't leaked since.
 
I don't feel it's necessary to aim to be completely void of any air such as in a shock. I think 80-90% full is good enough. Perhaps someone can correct me otherwise but I don't see any gain in aiming for 100% full vs 80-90%. My experience is the internal pressure from aiming for completely full results in leakage. While filling only up to the satellite gear cross shafts may look low, the planetary gear once inserted will occupy most of that space.

I'm with you. I don't want it completely full. Cover the cross pins and done.
 
The issue with the center diff is that the diff cup is plastic and no matter how hard you try it's going to leak.
I switched to an aluminum diff cup with the factory o rings and gasket and it hasn't leaked since.

hr diff cups for all 3x diffs and shimmed always. hr bulkheads/cases front and rear; also center diff bracing upgrades as well. it is a big investment, but it is worth the money and time.
IMG_9415.JPG

IMG_7276.JPG

IMG_7277.JPG
 
Last edited:
I haven't had any problems with the front or rear diff so I didn't feel the need to upgrade those.
 
now that you have said that...
tumblr_n1f148kwSd1r2nfs5o1_500.gif
Only problems I have had with them was when the bearing on the pinion exploded and ate the rear crown and pinion gears. And I snapped a rear outdrive one time. But no leaks or anything else. But that center diff was a thorn in my side, replaced everything and the stupid thing still leaked. It always leaked between the cup and the spur and out of the screw holes.
 
Last edited:
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top