I've got the hitec one (5646wp). Pricey, but twice the torque as stock, 2s lipo compatible, and it actually has a standardized waterproof rating which none of the others do. The thing has been absolutely bombproof for me and I am pretty hard on the equipment so to speak. It was also a direct fit, just use the supplied (black) horn and trim to the same length as the stock one. There are certainly cheaper options, I was considering a bluebird amoung others when shopping around for this.
Btw, I assume this is to run spektrum's avc which I also why I got one. That system is the business. I cannot recommend it enough.
I've got the blx granite so the esc wouldn't be an issue? What servo is it exactly?Savöx also has some nice and affordable waterproof servos.
My son has one in his Mojave. Only the biggest problem is they consume more power than the stock (non BLX) ESC can handle.
They can work as a high voltage servo, which needs some alternative wiring
I've got the blx granite so the esc wouldn't be an issue? What servo is it exactly?
I picked up the spektrum avc system and am leaning toward the hi tec servo. Since the receiver doesn't fit inside the waterproof box that the granite has, I guess I need to remove the box and put it in its place? I'm worried that the receiver will get damaged if it gets wet. Any tips?I've got the hitec one (5646wp). Pricey, but twice the torque as stock, 2s lipo compatible, and it actually has a standardized waterproof rating which none of the others do. The thing has been absolutely bombproof for me and I am pretty hard on the equipment so to speak. It was also a direct fit, just use the supplied (black) horn and trim to the same length as the stock one. There are certainly cheaper options, I was considering a bluebird amoung others when shopping around for this.
Btw, I assume this is to run spektrum's avc which is also why I got one. That system is the business. I cannot recommend it enough. Make sure to set it up and double check nothing binds in 'blinky mode' before unleashing the beast.
Thanks for the tip. A picture would be very helpful!The Spektrum srs4210 reciever I am running is water proof and I have had no issues running it without the box (which I found to be a PIA). I don't think it has been submerged tho, I typically splash through water at speed and hose off when done if muddy.
You have to come up with an antenna mount if you ditch the box. I moved mine under the cab of my granite which protects it way better and still gives enough height that range isn't affected. I zip tied a tube to the two holes that stick up above the side of the chassis and then added a little liquid tape for good measure. It has been holding up great this way, I can post a pic if needed.
Good news is I figured out how to run the cable. Bad news is I can't figure out the servo horn. I tried the 24t arrma version which worked but didn't have enough clearance because the servo is slightly taller. So my next thought is the one included with the hi tech servo which is what I believe you used. My question is the holes are too small to screw in the ball head so what was your solution? Thanks.There is a slot on the side of the battery compartment that it runs through before going topside through the rectangular hole behind the ESC. Mine had a few pieces of slit clear tubing that helped keep it in there. I'm too comfortable on my couch to get up and take a pic, but this one shows it pretty good along the bottom side of the compartment.
Wow thanks a ton. I'll go trough these steps very carefully. I'm new to this and don't know anyone around me who can assist so if you're ever in San Jose I've got a beer for you.Setup wise, you want to start with the servo horn and work your way through the system. The setup needs to be done in blinky mode so AVC is not active. Also start with zero trim / subtrim and set your travel to 100% on both ends which is default. Once that is done, take off your servo horn and power up the car. Reinstall the horn as close to 90 (straight up) as possible. Then use subtrim to adjust it to a perfect 90. Now adjust the length of the first linkage off the servo by twisting one end to get the idler arms perfectly parallel to the chassis with the servo still at 90. When viewed from underneath, the ball links should be sticking out to the side of the chassis the same amount. Now hold the servo cover on by hand and run the servo from one side to the other with the Tx to feel if the cover is pushed up at all (binding). You also want to listen for binding against other surfaces which will make the servo buzz. Adjust your travel limits as far as you can without binding and do so carefully because this beast is plenty powerful enough to break stuff. Mine ended up at 102% on both ends but yours might be different. If you can't get 100% or better it is time to get out the dremel and make a little extra room where needed. Now measure your steering links and make sure they are the same length. Then, adjust their length symmetrically to adjust toe. Test run the car, still in blinky mode, to make sure it tracks straight. Adjust your steering links if needed, not trim. Rebind out of blinky mode following the calibration method and Bob's your uncle.
Don't ever touch your steering trim, it is not need with avc once set up correctly. In fact, I disabled the switch for it so it didn't get bumped by accident (and possibly cause the servo to bind). One of the beautys of AVC is its heading hold function. You point it in a direction and it goes straight that way until told to do otherwise even if the steering trim is slightly off.
One other note, it looks like the mount for the lower right servo cover bolt is pinching your servo wire.