What are you using for grease in your diffs?

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That went way over my head

hall of fame game missed the point GIF
 
IrieWheeler said:
Going to be trying Permatex Ceramic Brake Lube when I do my diffs shortly but don't know if it's a good recommendation or not. Got the idea from some guy on the internet and given that it makes sense, figured it was worth a try just just for the hell of it.
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Very Old thread, but this post above is Misinformation. And makes NO sense, actually.
For for anyone considering this ....Don't use any Brake lubricants. I have that Permatex Ceram. stuff here, and it is for only doing my brakes. Good stuff and expensive too, BUT only for Car brakes.
Even though YT "RC GUY Garage" and some others Use it, don't follow this advice. RCGG, is the type of guy that reaches for whatever is within an arms reach. And doesn't care.

Any Multipurpose Automotive NLGI High Pressure Grease is correct, Synthetic types even better. For all diff's Main and Input Gears. A smear of this grease on the Diffs Output Cup's shafts, I also recommend, when building your diff.
:cool:
 
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Lucas Marine, R and T, Mobil 1 synth. , And Superlube synth., are all NLGI grade 1 or 2, high pressure greases, and are more than protective enough for RC diffs.
I have all of them here. I am a lube monger. :giggle: But even the cheapest NLGI rated grease are more than enough protection. One can split hairs on Syn versus non syn etc. They are all ok. Marine types are great for wet running. Even in the BB's. Like with my Crawlers.
 
Trolling here? No, but where’s that other dang thread that had examples of certain types of grease weakening/softening the bulkheads to the point of failure over time? Certain petroleum bases do. There was also a pretty compelling argument stating why to not use white lithium grease. I’ll keep looking for it…
 
Dan B. said:
Trolling here? No, but where’s that other dang thread that had examples of certain types of grease weakening/softening the bulkheads to the point of failure over time? Certain petroleum bases do. There was also a pretty compelling argument stating why to not use white lithium grease. I’ll keep looking for it…
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Yes, lots of threads with some discussions on this. Probably more than just this.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/marine-grease-red-n-tacky-bad-for-plastics.59983/
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/grease-for-diff.59432/
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/diff-case-gear-and-input-gear-stripped-why.51164/
Lots of discussion, thought I don't know that I've seen anyone provide concrete examples of it happening. I've seen some white lithium greases advertised as plastic safe. I use it, but only on my metal gears. For plastic gears, i'd used inert stuff like silicone based grease/oils.
 
Do you grease your motor pinion and center diff? Why not, because it would just be flung off everywhere.

I only throw a thin bead of 618 loctite on the OD of the bearing and aluminum diff housing radii, same thing on the bottom to the chassis mounting flange. Total seal provided a bearing doesn’t let go.

618/yamabond is a gasket maker that is used for aluminum flanges, good to a few hundred degrees and never hardens(non-setting flexible)
 
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I got tired of clearing all the grease out of my bulkheads that got flung off the diffs every time I wanted to work on my diffs so I decided to give the thicc DryFluid Gear Lube a try. It's been working great as far as I can tell and it stays where I put it.
1684884773597.png
 
Garcbomber said:
Do you grease your motor pinion and center diff? Why not, because it would just be flung off everywhere.

I only throw a thin bead of 618 loctite on the OD of the bearing and aluminum diff housing radii, same thing on the bottom to the chassis mounting flange. Total seal provided a bearing doesn’t let go.

618/yamabond is a gasket maker that is used for aluminum flanges, good to a few hundred degrees and never hardens(non-setting flexible)
Click to expand...

I loved the Facebook posts of the guys that would completely pack the entire bulkhead with grease 🤣
 
Garcbomber said:
Do you grease your motor pinion and center diff? Why not, because it would just be flung off everywhere.

I only throw a thin bead of 618 loctite on the OD of the bearing and aluminum diff housing radii, same thing on the bottom to the chassis mounting flange. Total seal provided a bearing doesn’t let go.

618/yamabond is a gasket maker that is used for aluminum flanges, good to a few hundred degrees and never hardens(non-setting flexible)
Click to expand...
Yeah that would prevent a Spun BB. Common with some Alloy Upgrade bulkheads.(y) And even the Stockers. Extra oz. of prevention.
A BB technically should be a "press fit" for this reason. If tolerances were better with parts.
 
I use udder butter. Looks very similar to the stock grease that comes on my HPIs, but I think there are some differences.
 
Hector_Fisher said:
Yes, lots of threads with some discussions on this. Probably more than just this.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/marine-grease-red-n-tacky-bad-for-plastics.59983/
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/grease-for-diff.59432/
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/diff-case-gear-and-input-gear-stripped-why.51164/
Lots of discussion, thought I don't know that I've seen anyone provide concrete examples of it happening. I've seen some white lithium greases advertised as plastic safe. I use it, but only on my metal gears. For plastic gears, i'd used inert stuff like silicone based grease/oils.
Click to expand...
I find that synthetic greases are somewhat safer for plastics. Generally speaking. Some hard composite plastics can absorb some greases in general.
Have you ever noticed the bulkheads tend to "sweat" the grease on the outside, through the Bulkhead. Visible when you see dirt collect on it. Just my observation.
 
SrC said:
I find that synthetic greases are somewhat safer for plastics. Generally speaking. Some hard composite plastics can absorb some greases in general.
Have you ever noticed the bulkheads tend to "sweat" the grease on the outside, through the Bulkhead. Visible when you see dirt collect on it. Just my observation.
Click to expand...
Looks sort of like an old engine with leaky valve cover gaskets.
 
For the ring and pinion gear, I use Super Lube multipurpose synthetic grease with PTFE. Probably not the best™ choice out there but I like it. It stays where you put it and it's virtually safe on all plastics so you don't have to worry about it degrading the plastic overtime like some other greases.
 
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SrC said:
Very Old thread, but this post above is Misinformation. And makes NO sense, actually.
For for anyone considering this ....Don't use any Brake lubricants. I have that Permatex Ceram. stuff here, and it is for only doing my brakes. Good stuff and expensive too, BUT only for Car brakes.
Even though YT "RC GUY Garage" and some others Use it, don't follow this advice. RCGG, is the type of guy that reaches for whatever is within an arms reach. And doesn't care.

Any Multipurpose Automotive NLGI High Pressure Grease is correct, Synthetic types even better. For all diff's Main and Input Gears. A smear of this grease on the Diffs Output Cup's shafts, I also recommend, when building your diff.
:cool:
Click to expand...
Hi, sorry for bumping old thread. i don't have much options as i live in india. which one is best from below for losi mini t 2.0, kraton 6s and senton 3s

as losi has plastic gear box so im kinda confused

https://www.amazon.in/Petrelplus-2700-Silicon-Grease-50gm/dp/B07X2HLXSQ/ref=sr_1_18?crid=1VP8FHKWG1AH5&keywords=Synthetic+grease&qid=1703436626&sprefix=synthetic+grea,aps,970&sr=8-18

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B0BXSRHRXJ/ref=ewc_pr_img_2?smid=AT6CXUU1KQVZ2&psc=1

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07FY7G8J1/ref=ewc_pr_img_3?smid=A2AL6IVND0I91F&psc=1

thanks in advance
 
SrC said:
Good to always ask first.
This EP grease below is what you want, absolutely. And Not the other ones. Any Automotive grease that says NLGI 1, 2, or 3 is what you need for the Main gears.

>>>https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07FY7G8J1/ref=ewc_pr_img_3?smid=A2AL6IVND0I91F&th=1 (y)

The only stupid question is the one you don't ask.

Enjoy.
Click to expand...

thank you so much, an off topic question which im unable to find answer. my mini t drive shaft bearing blown out. i don't know how to remove the bearing, there is no screw anywhere on the drive shaft to remove it. i tried to check the diagram on losi website but it also docent say how to remove it



hh1ryle.jpg
 
Not familiar with that specifically. But I believe it is just press fitted too tight. Try to somehow press it off gently enough. Try some spray lube to help it some. What I would do.:unsure:
Maybe heat it up with a heat gun or hair dryer. No flame heat though. That's plastic. Being careful with the heat.
In theory, the metal BB will expand in size just enough and be easier to press off. Try that. I know it works for me in similar situations.

>>>>>>>Are you sure that BB is not sandwiched somehow with any faster between the plastic shaft and The gear?????
I know nothing about that model. Hopefully someone else here has some more experience.
>>>Is that plastic shaft Hollow? Maybe there is a fastener inside the hollow shaft that connects to the gear, sandwiching that BB in place?? IDK.
Just some ideas.
 
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SrC said:
Not familiar with that specifically. But I believe it is just press fitted too tight. Try to somehow press it off gently enough. Try some spray lube to help it some. What I would do.:unsure:
Maybe heat it up with a heat gun or hair dryer. No flame heat though. That's plastic. Being careful with the heat.
In theory, the metal BB will expand in size just enough and be easier to press off. Try that. I know it works for me in similar situations.

>>>>>>>Are you sure that BB is not sandwiched somehow with any faster between the plastic shaft and The gear?????
I know nothing about that model. Hopefully someone else here has some more experience.
>>>Is that plastic shaft Hollow? Maybe there is a fastener inside the hollow shaft that connects to the gear, sandwiching that BB in place?? IDK.
Just some ideas.
Click to expand...
heating didnt help, spraying lube didnt help

the bearing is too tight to remove it just by heating it up. as per your suggetion i just tried it

>>>>>>>Are you sure that BB is not sandwiched somehow with any faster between the plastic shaft and The gear?????
Click to expand...
i think the faster or drive shift in itself is somekind of screw which is stuck like a planet to sun and its immovable unles i destroy one of them. god dammit

eveything is metal in there. and none of them is plastic. hope some one shread some light. will wait

thanks for the help ser.🙏
 
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