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Some thin plastic and rivets, that'll buff right out?Fancying one of them unbreakable bodies if Father Xmas is kind to me tomorrow but in the meantime I'll get creative with the tape lol
That's awesome!Some thin plastic and rivets, that'll buff right out?
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how'd you get that rusty metal look?!? My "real steel" looks silver. That looks like real rust. Love it!Some thin plastic and rivets, that'll buff right out?
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I painted the outside black not realizing how quickly it would come off. As the black wore away, it got a patina look going over time. I haven't painted since?how'd you get that rusty metal look?!? My "real steel" looks silver. That looks like real rust. Love it!
Is that the eBay one? I have not heard anything good about those.Just received my 1/4” 7075 laserguide rc chassis today to replace my bent talion chassis super excited for the build , not excited to hunt down all the 3-5 mm longer screws I’m going to have to find, any one knows where to get a longer screw kit it would be helpful!!!
Yeah I can't remember. It very well could be M4x4. I don't have any grub screws with me nor do I have my digital calipers.I believe the set screws for the 6S is 4mm. Just grab a regular 4mm bolt to confirm the size. Of course liberal Loctite. I use Red LT only on the motor pinion. Let it cure for 24 hours before you bash on. Using two grub screws may create a spacing problem at the motor mount. Because there is only one Flat on the motors output shaft. So the grub screw without the flat may not clear the motor mount. Snug real well with Red LT for sure. Only one is required and works fine as for most here on AF. Maybe others here can chime in.
Gotta love that NOTO. bodySome thin plastic and rivets, that'll buff right out?
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Its def. an M4 grub screw for the Pinion gear. I just checked. But you only need one. Because there is only one flat. Unless you are willing to grind another Flat 180 Degrees from the other one onto the motor's Arm shaft. I don't think that's necessary however.Gotta love that NOTO. body
My motor has 2 flat sides but the part on arrma says M4x4 https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310473 and includes 2 grub screwsGotta love that NOTO. body
Its def. an M4 grub screw for the Pinion gear. I just checked. But you only need one. Because there is only one flat. Unless you are willing to grind another Flat 180 Degrees from the other one onto the motor's Arm shaft. I don't think that's necessary however.
Amazon for like $20Just received my 1/4” 7075 laserguide rc chassis today to replace my bent talion chassis super excited for the build , not excited to hunt down all the 3-5 mm longer screws I’m going to have to find, any one knows where to get a longer screw kit it would be helpful!!!
Both of my BLX185 motors have a flat spot on both sides of the shaft.That's a new one on me. Double flats. I haven't seen that before on an Arrma Motor. Not my 4 6S motors.
A good idea as long as you use two grubs together and not one alone.
Let me find my glasses and take another look. My vision is very bad. Maybe my bad. My eyes are very bad now. I need help. Sorry for the misunderstanding. My glasses are no good. I don't see well anymore. Sorry again.Both of my BLX185 motors have a flat spot on both sides of the shaft.
Would you by chance be running the hot racing aluminum hubs?Not exactly break.... but yesterday when running the Outcast 6S after a barrel roll one of the front dog bones came out of the diff cup. Needed to take the upper arm off to get it back in. I suspect the arms are flexing and popping the bone out. This happened twice, once each side.
The young fella was not impressed when he had to carry his car back to the house (no tools on me) to fix it up. I told him it would build his strength and character.
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