What did you break today?

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Fancying one of them unbreakable bodies if Father Xmas is kind to me tomorrow but in the meantime I'll get creative with the tape lol
Some thin plastic and rivets, that'll buff right out?
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Just received my 1/4” 7075 laserguide rc chassis today to replace my bent talion chassis super excited for the build , not excited to hunt down all the 3-5 mm longer screws I’m going to have to find, any one knows where to get a longer screw kit it would be helpful!!!
 
how'd you get that rusty metal look?!? My "real steel" looks silver. That looks like real rust. Love it!
I painted the outside black not realizing how quickly it would come off. As the black wore away, it got a patina look going over time. I haven't painted since?
 
Just received my 1/4” 7075 laserguide rc chassis today to replace my bent talion chassis super excited for the build , not excited to hunt down all the 3-5 mm longer screws I’m going to have to find, any one knows where to get a longer screw kit it would be helpful!!!
Is that the eBay one? I have not heard anything good about those.
Hardware store for screws.
 
well, looks like I will become a regular on this thread ...

good bash at the pump track again, took the Granite and the Notorious while waiting for a Kraton bumper (out of stock)

Starting with the Notorious who got a bit of character
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cleaned up and I have to admit I like that
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what I don't like is a pinion backing out again, 2nd model where this happened from stock (the Granite had the same issue)

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seems there are actually 2 grub screw holes but the exploded view only shows one being used?? though the motor having 2 flat surfaces
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as obviously one screw is still present but no loctite residue to be found on it ...

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could someone please confirm the size of the grub screws as if there is space for two I will surely use two when I get the new pinion (do their pinions come with grub screws?)

Really annoyed as the Notorious went like a rocket and as I took it out first the Granite didnt had the right punch for me - how could it? half the power ...

Next the Granite still had my fun with that little fella but it feels a bit underpowered (may need to up something) if you just used the Notorious before that ... been at the pump track again (video may come later) nice jumps and here is the result:

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yup you guessed it rear shock tower destroyed

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are there any aftermarket upgrades that people suggest to use instead - only seem to find the original part

front bumper split but still useable (spare is already on the shelf)

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All in all good bash though but I would have wanted to flatten the other 6S pack only took 20% out of it
 
Busted a rear RPM arm on my outcast last Sunday 3 minutes into my bash. Ripped it through the hinge pin mold split on a less than stellar landing:
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I'm guessing that's the 3rd one as I remember breaking one shortly after installing it, but for the life of me, I couldn't find it's mate (they come in 2's, right and left). So I'm assuming I used it... or lost it.

A couple bash sessions back, I busted the left rear as well, but the arm held. The hinge pin bent badly, the rear retainer snapped in half and front retainer got mangled.

Also broke a tierod on my ERBEv2. At least it made it through a full pack, then I hit a tree 5 minutes into the second set of packs:
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This was the second bash with the max6 in the ERBEv2 and I geared it up one more tooth to 19/54. It flipped really well. It was 45F out, so not sure how the temps are. When I checked, the blx2050kv was at 125F near the rear of the can and the esc was 118F. That was at the end of a pretty spirited set of packs at the bmx track.

Was hoping to get a bit more wheel time with the outcast as it's next run will be with a max6 as well and geared up to 14T from 13T I had in it.
 
I believe the set screws for the 6S is 4mm. Just grab a regular 4mm bolt to confirm the size. Of course liberal Loctite. I use Red LT only on the motor pinion. Let it cure for 24 hours before you bash on. Using two grub screws may create a spacing problem at the motor mount. Because there is only one Flat on the motors output shaft. So the grub screw without the flat may not clear the motor mount. Snug real well with Red LT for sure. Only one is required and works fine as for most here on AF. Maybe others here can chime in.:)
 
I believe the set screws for the 6S is 4mm. Just grab a regular 4mm bolt to confirm the size. Of course liberal Loctite. I use Red LT only on the motor pinion. Let it cure for 24 hours before you bash on. Using two grub screws may create a spacing problem at the motor mount. Because there is only one Flat on the motors output shaft. So the grub screw without the flat may not clear the motor mount. Snug real well with Red LT for sure. Only one is required and works fine as for most here on AF. Maybe others here can chime in.:)
Yeah I can't remember. It very well could be M4x4. I don't have any grub screws with me nor do I have my digital calipers.
 
Some thin plastic and rivets, that'll buff right out?
View attachment 58254
Gotta love that NOTO. body
Gotta love that NOTO. body
Its def. an M4 grub screw for the Pinion gear. I just checked. But you only need one. Because there is only one flat. Unless you are willing to grind another Flat 180 Degrees from the other one onto the motor's Arm shaft. I don't think that's necessary however.
 
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Gotta love that NOTO. body

Its def. an M4 grub screw for the Pinion gear. I just checked. But you only need one. Because there is only one flat. Unless you are willing to grind another Flat 180 Degrees from the other one onto the motor's Arm shaft. I don't think that's necessary however.
My motor has 2 flat sides but the part on arrma says M4x4 https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310473 and includes 2 grub screws
 

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That's a new one on me. Double flats. I haven't seen that before on an Arrma Motor. Not my 4 6S motors.
A good idea as long as you use two grubs together and not one alone.
 
Just received my 1/4” 7075 laserguide rc chassis today to replace my bent talion chassis super excited for the build , not excited to hunt down all the 3-5 mm longer screws I’m going to have to find, any one knows where to get a longer screw kit it would be helpful!!!
Amazon for like $20
Yeah mine has 2 flats.. one has a lip on the end I use that side so it's less likely to get shot off.... all I broke today was screws pulling out of the rear bulkhead again and another fan on the max 6
 
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That's a new one on me. Double flats. I haven't seen that before on an Arrma Motor. Not my 4 6S motors.
A good idea as long as you use two grubs together and not one alone.
Both of my BLX185 motors have a flat spot on both sides of the shaft.
 
Both of my BLX185 motors have a flat spot on both sides of the shaft.
Let me find my glasses and take another look. My vision is very bad.:unsure: Maybe my bad. My eyes are very bad now. I need help. Sorry for the misunderstanding. My glasses are no good. I don't see well anymore. Sorry again.
 
Not exactly break.... but yesterday when running the Outcast 6S after a barrel roll one of the front dog bones came out of the diff cup. Needed to take the upper arm off to get it back in. I suspect the arms are flexing and popping the bone out. This happened twice, once each side.
The young fella was not impressed when he had to carry his car back to the house (no tools on me) to fix it up. I told him it would build his strength and character.
 
Not exactly break.... but yesterday when running the Outcast 6S after a barrel roll one of the front dog bones came out of the diff cup. Needed to take the upper arm off to get it back in. I suspect the arms are flexing and popping the bone out. This happened twice, once each side.
The young fella was not impressed when he had to carry his car back to the house (no tools on me) to fix it up. I told him it would build his strength and character.
Would you by chance be running the hot racing aluminum hubs?
 
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