What did you break today?

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Not exactly break.... but yesterday when running the Outcast 6S after a barrel roll one of the front dog bones came out of the diff cup. Needed to take the upper arm off to get it back in. I suspect the arms are flexing and popping the bone out. This happened twice, once each side.
The young fella was not impressed when he had to carry his car back to the house (no tools on me) to fix it up. I told him it would build his strength and character.
Adjust your droop screws to prevent the arm from dropping that low.
 
Not today but a couple days ago. My 2 sons got Granite Voltages for Christmas so I took them to the park, along with my Kraton and Granite BLX.

I took my ramp with us to get some air and everything was going good until my younger son, who's 5, decided to send his Granite off the ramp. He must've landed under throttle because the diff input cup split in 2. No worries, as I gave my older boy my granite to run so the younger one could run his brother's.

Fast forward, the Kraton was getting close to lvc, so I was bringing it back when I hit the brakes and it almost flipped over. I punched the throttle to prevent that and off it sped into a tree. ?‍♂️
Oh well, the only damage was a broken arm. ?
I then took my Granite back and was speeding around the parking lot. On the way back, I was probably doing about 40, I smacked a steel pole with the right wheel. Broke the arm and the shock top.

Considering how fast I was going, I'd say that was minimal damage. The Kraton still had the stock arms in the front and I've been meaning to change them to RPM. I had the 6s shocks already on the way for the BLX Granite, so no big deal, I just ordered an extra set of arms. Also ordered a bunch of the input cups for the Voltages.

Does anyone know if there's some kind of upgrade for those Voltage input cups? The stock ones look way too weak.
 
Let's try again ?
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Thanks, will do. i thought it was a bit funny that it has happened on each side and that made me start to think it may have been an assembly issue.
Try removing the spacers between the a arms and pillow balls this has helped a lot of guys fix this problem.
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I wonder how much Titanium is in that Titanium.
There's probably some Uranium in there too. They seem to have acquired a lot of it during the last Admin.:LOL:
There are many grades of Ti. Ti will bend at some point based on its grade. Low grade Ti is very soft compared to the Expensive grades. You pay for what you get. And real Ti is non magnetic. Check that Tower with a strong magnet.
 
Thanks Slick, was checking it out this morning and can see that they are backing out. Will remove the spacers and see how I go.
Oh if they are backing out, you might have the pillow ball retainers too tight or the holes are stripped.
 
Oh if they are backing out, you might have the pillow ball retainers too tight or the holes are stripped.
Sorry mate... poor explanation by me. The pillow ball retainers are moving out, not the spacers. Will remove the spacers and tighten up. If they pillow balls move again I'll use a dab of blue loctite or super glue.
 
I wonder how much Titanium is in that Titanium. :unsure:
Lot's I'd say i can't get it straight with a hammer and it doesn't stick to any magnet. You should try drilling it ? The impact would of probably bent most thing's. The top hinge pin was bent only just got it out and the top of the dif case had split right across the top pulling the bottom screws out. Painful to watch this clip but that's how it happened
There's probably some Uranium in there too. They seem to have acquired a lot of it during the last Admin.:LOL:
There are many grades of Ti. Ti will bend at some point based on its grade. Low grade Ti is very soft compared to the Expensive grades. You pay for what you get. And real Ti is non magnetic. Check that Tower with a strong magnet.
It's survived many many bashing trip's that front Talion tower ran it for nearly a year with no problems at all it would flex but not bend or snap dif cases. It was only driver error that caused this not soft titanium ?
 

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Lot's I'd say i can't get it straight with a hammer and it doesn't stick to any magnet. You should try drilling it ? The impact would of probably bent most thing's. The top hinge pin was bent only just got it out and the top of the dif case had split right across the top pulling the bottom screws out. Painful to watch this clip but that's how it happened

It's survived many many bashing trip's that front Talion tower ran it for nearly a year with no problems at all it would flex but not bend or snap dif cases. It was only driver error that caused this not soft titanium ?
What is that poor thing?

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Is that the eBay one? I have not heard anything good about those.
Hardware store for screws.
Yes it is the eBay one and after 2 hrs sanding drilling and fitting, and another screw kit from rc it’s finally together!! I can say I def do not think it is 7075 the way it drilled !! But I won it on a bid for $60 so I’ll try anything for that price... although I’ll wait till a serious bash to give a real review!!?
 

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Out of all the bearings on my Kraton, I did not expect the bearings on the T-bone wheelie bar to be the first to fail. They are sealed too. They seem to be moulded into the wheel. Does anyone know if the wheels/bearings are sold separately? I can't see them on the website.

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Out of all the bearings on my Kraton, I did not expect the bearings on the T-bone wheelie bar to be the first to fail. They are sealed too. They seem to be moulded into the wheel. Does anyone know if the wheels/bearings are sold separately? I can't see them on the website.

View attachment 59357 View attachment 59358
https://tboneracing.net/products/db04-du-bro-wheel-1-3-4-solid-tire-aluminum-hub-80003

Will have to see if dubro sells them that way. Wouldn't mind replacing the ones on one of my trucks as it has the old aluminum hub version which binds and tightens the screw down so it doesn't spin.
 
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