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Antenna pipe as I lost original on a bash a few days ago; v3 servo saver as backup in case the stock v4 one starts to loosen; rear skid plate, and the bit I really needed to get back on the road, replacement hinge pin for the one I bent on yesterday's bash.
Cheers,
Stu
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Has anyone tried the Arrma 6S metal diff case? Any comments pro or con? Heavier for sure...….but knew that ahead of time.
I haven't checked, but perhaps oil volume is slightly increased? Not significantly though.
 
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Building a spare center diff. All new parts.
200k , Arrma Metal diff case. I want to give it a try and see how it fits and and shims out.
Just got my Zennon center diff rebuilt with 1M. It blew up just like the Outcast. The LHS had 3 & I bought them all. I keep on forgetting how heavy the aluminum is. I definitely wouldn't use it for the front/rear, but I never had the plastic cups fail in either, just the center. It's a tier above most aluminum cups out there, definitely the best. The steel outer cover is a great touch. I put one in my Outcast already.

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Yes agreed. The center gets most of the abuse. My F and R never an issue. Motor temps and spur/pinion "dry" mesh friction contributes to that I feel. F an R have greased ring and input gears. Run cooler. My current OE center diff. setup runs as high as 230 deg. F., the hottest component on my 2019 Kraton. Even with a light trigger running flat. OE diff. has 10K though. I get it.
 
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I put one in the rear of my outcast. I wasn't able to fit any extra shims on the outside to help the ring/pinion mesh, but it called for a couple more shims inside under the larger sun gears, which I did add. I have 2 more to change the other two eventually.
 
I know that no one shims the center diff outboard, but I did on my Kraton. Got rid of some end play float. I placed 1 Tekno shim at the front side bearing. Still just enough play, but no more excessive sliding at the pin./spur mesh. My Noto didn't need it.
 
Very nice and you got a typhoon for good price...and all this upgrades boom men ? ?
2 sets of tires for the Typhon, one for off-road and one for on-road. A set of spare wheelnuts and a LiPo battery for my remote control.
The tires are private label from a German internetshop, they are dirt cheap but have good reviews so I'm curious how they will do.

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From conrad?
 
Just got my Zennon center diff rebuilt with 1M. It blew up just like the Outcast. The LHS had 3 & I bought them all. I keep on forgetting how heavy the aluminum is. I definitely wouldn't use it for the front/rear, but I never had the plastic cups fail in either, just the center. It's a tier above most aluminum cups out there, definitely the best. The steel outer cover is a great touch. I put one in my Outcast already.

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Why not just run a spool then ??‍♂️
 
You would end up with worn out f and r diffs much sooner than later.

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Why not just run a spool then ??‍♂️
The front diff is a spool. It's still a basher, a 17lb twin chassis basher. It has already blown 2 rear & one center diff. I don't think it'll stay in one piece with a locked rear diff.
 
1m at center diff is too high for the weight of an Arrma 6s off road rig. Imo. If that is what we are talking about . I thought I missed something here:(
 
1m at center diff is too high for the weight of an Arrma 6s off road rig. Imo. If that is what we are talking about . I thought I missed something here:(
It blew the first rear diff @ 100k. Then I upped it to 500k, same results then the 500k cooked & blown Outcast style. But that was with the 1275kv X-Maxx motor on 8s. I ran it for around 4 months on a new plastic diff cup @ 1M with the 1600kv motor on 6s & it's been doing great. No reason to go back down with the aluminum cup. Zennon's problem is that it's at the limit of what the Arrma drivetrain can handle, weight & powerwise. I also just bought a set of RPM arms for it so it can finally take some jumps. Last time I jumped it, 2 flat landings resulted in 2 busted rear arms.
 
The front diff is a spool. It's still a basher, a 17lb twin chassis basher. It has already blown 2 rear & one center diff. I don't think it'll stay in one piece with a locked rear diff.
My point was if you’re gonna run 1M in the center, might as well run a spool. That’s 10x heavier than stock.
 
Yes that's what I figured. But thought 10k was stock at center. That would be 100 times thicker.:LOL: might as well run a spool is right. Not that it would be correct. But 1m CST would be basically a locked spool. I got ya.(y)
I'm building my spare center diff with 200k. My Kraton will probably come alive on 6S now instead of bleeding off torque at the front end.
 
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