What did you buy today?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Had to run to Wall today so we decided to take a slight detour to Wall Drug.
Picked up this and a tshirt, both tye dye.
Df9lju1.jpg
 
I saw that sign also, when I last vacationed in Antartica.:ROFLMAO:
It's ridiculous people even put up their own signs. In a 1 mile stretch of interstate that I frequent for work there are at the very least 6 signs for this place.

The signs are scattered in some very improbable places. In Seoul, Korea: WALL DRUG—6,636 MILES. On Easter Island: WALL DRUG—5,541 MILES. Along the canals in Amsterdam: WALL DRUG—5,387 MILES. In Antarctica: WALL DRUG—10,645 MILES(apparently there are 2 signs in Antarctica). And if you happen to find yourself driving on Interstate 90 in South Dakota, headed west toward the Black Hills or east toward Sioux Falls, the message is ubiquitous: HAVE YOU DUG WALL DRUG? BE A WALL FLOWER AT WALL DRUG. WALL DRUG, THE STORE THAT PUT A WALL ON THE MAP.

They have some pretty neat stuff in there, a real pharmacy, cafe, candy store, book store, western wear(if you're into that), gift shop and a giant jackalope.
 
I was there about 17 years ago. Is that giant dinosaur still there?
Yup, they added red leds to his eyes, super creepy at night.
Couple of spacers under the center diff mount..??
This is what I was thinking at least a 3mm spacer under each point on the motor and diff mount.
 
Last edited:
Big Boys With Cool Toys in Toronto is having a 15th anniversary sale. Dropped in yesterday and grabbed a bunch of parts and two new bodies (buy one get one free for the bodies).
20190824_114806.jpg
20190824_114758.jpg
 
It doesn't fit......................
I think the 49 mm diameter motor's can is too fat IMO. You would have to somehow raise/change the motor mount for this can to clear the bottom of the chassis. the length will barely clear the chassis side guard however.
I just did some quick measurements on my Noto. There is less than 4mm clearance between the chassis and motor with the OE BLX motor/motor mount.
Couple of spacers under the center diff mount..??
To gain clearance, you have to raise/Shim the whole center diff and motor mount as an assembly. I imagine it could be done. Someone has done this for sure. Anything is possible. But this 4985 can is not a shoe in.:) But a torque monster it is. And should run cool at 1650Kv.
Just delivered. My old one got worn out. This one can handle 1/8 scale too. And fit a diff as well.(y)
20190824_134357.jpg
20190824_134234.jpg
20190824_135725.jpg
20190824_134357.jpg
My new pump. Old one was worn out. This one does 1/8 scale too. Hudy makes an electric 1/8 version one at 3 times the price and has been on B/O. I stayed with the Tamiya brand. My old Tamiya pump lasted quite a while. Hard to find in stock. AMZ had one left. And I scooped it up.
Has anyone else been using a pump?
 
Last edited:
I think the 49 mm diameter motor's can is too fat IMO. You would have to somehow raise/change the motor mount for this can to clear the bottom of the chassis. the length will barely clear the chassis side guard however.
I just did some quick measurements on my Noto. There is less than 4mm clearance between the chassis and motor with the OE BLX motor/motor mount.

To gain clearance, you have to raise/Shim the whole center diff and motor mount as an assembly. I imagine it could be done. Someone has done this for sure. Anything is possible. But this 4985 can is not a shoe in.:) But a torque monster it is. And should run cool at 1650Kv.
Just delivered. My old one got worn out. This one can handle 1/8 scale too. And fit a diff as well.(y)
View attachment 46460View attachment 46461View attachment 46462View attachment 46460 My new pump. Old one was worn out. This one does 1/8 scale too. Hudy makes an electric 1/8 version one at 3 times the price and has been on B/O. I stayed with the Tamiya brand. My old Tamiya pump lasted quite a while. Hard to find in stock. AMZ had one left. And I scooped it up.
Has anyone else been using a pump?
Yeah my plan is to raise up everything, unfortunately the LHS closed before I got off work, and the hardware store closed right as I got there so I didn't make any leeway on this. And I swear either @bicketybam or @Mr.Duke have this motor in one of their Arrmas, I do not recall any of them needing mod anything.
 
@slick2500 You can either run the v4 motor mount or shim the v3 mount and center diff with spacers. The v4 mount doesn't need shims to run this motor.
I run the v3 mount shimmed because of how I have my cooling fans mounted for easy maintenance and removal using existing holes for the side guard to mount to the chassis

IMG_9699.JPG


IMG_1236.PNG


On the new v4 mount, there's a small kick out that the v3 mount doesn't have. I would need to machine that off in order to run my fan setup and do away with the shims for the v3 mount.its been rock solid with the current motor mount so I haven't bothered modding the v4 mount yet. I eventually will though
IMG_1237.jpg


You'll also need to trim the rear of the side guard to get it to fit properly
IMG_1235.PNG

Also go ahead and put a small piece of gorilla tape over that temperature port on the back of the motor to keep dirt out.
 
Last edited:
@slick2500 You can either run the v4 motor mount or shim the v3 mount and center diff with spacers. The v4 mount doesn't need shims to run this motor.
I run the v3 mount shimmed because of how I have my cooling fans mounted for easy maintenance and removal using existing holes for the side guard to mount to the chassis

View attachment 46532

View attachment 46534

On the new v4 mount, there's a small kick out that the v3 mount doesn't have. I would need to machine that off in order to run my fan setup and do away with the shims for the v3 mount.its been rock solid with the current motor mount so I haven't bothered modding the v4 mount yet. I eventually will though
View attachment 46535

You'll also need to trim the rear of the side guard to get it to fit properly View attachment 46533
Also go ahead and put a small piece of gorilla tape over that temperature port on the back of the motor to keep dirt out.
I am currently running the Hot Racing mount not the stock og mount.
I might just pick up a V4 mount. I wonder if it would work with the M2C mount ?
Well either way thanks for the info. I'll probably just space it out for now.
 
Back
Top