Limitless What did you do to your Limitless today?

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Well what did I do to my Limitless today... New @Basherqueen carbon fiber wing, wing mount, top plate, ackerman, A plates, side skirts, front splitter and center brace😍 Can't thank Kimberly the "official" Basherqueen enough for the support and helping me out with the parts package🥰 and most of all for being an amazing person! Here's all the beautiful carbon fiber installed and ready to go👊 View attachment 142933View attachment 142934View attachment 142935View attachment 142936View attachment 142938View attachment 142939View attachment 142940

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Not that it matters... but these are inside out... unless you did that on purpose? 👊😎🤙
94EDFD35-0994-477A-8166-541C8DC037E2.jpeg
 
Not that it matters... but these are inside out... unless you did that on purpose? 👊😎🤙
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Thanks, ya just realized posting all the pics🤦 LMAO already had to take the top plate back off too as I had the upper hinge pin block backwards😂 I guess that's what I get for being so excited to get everything installed. I think I'll leave it though as it seems aerodynamically it would cause less drag over sticking out the sides🤷
 
Thanks, ya just realized posting all the pics🤦 LMAO already had to take the top plate back off too as I had the upper hinge pin block backwards😂 I guess that's what I get for being so excited to get everything installed. I think I'll leave it though as it seems aerodynamically it would cause less drag over sticking out the sides🤷
FWIW it is on backwards, too. Blunt side forward.
 
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Getting hot with 6s? Even the fastest speedruners don't need to make vent holes in their bodies, there is something wrong in your setup. Which motor/ESC you have? What gearing?
running a castle 15/15y-2200kv motor, a castle X 6s esc,.with castle cap pack...32pinion with a 34spur..motor gets hot, esc seems ok....help!!
 
running a castle 15/15y-2200kv motor, a castle X 6s esc,.with castle cap pack...32pinion with a 34spur..motor gets hot, esc seems ok....help!!
Your ESC/motor combo is not enough for the 1/7 Limitless, that's the reason it's getting hot. You need to upgrade your motor/ESC if you want better results. You are pushing too much your electronics.
This is from Castle.
1515 motor
Ideal for 1:8 scale buggies, truggies, on-road vehicles and 1:10 scale monster trucks up to 15lbs. Not recommended for use in high speed 1/8th and larger applications (IE Arrma Infraction and Limitless, Traxxas XO-1)

Mamba X ESC
Intended for up to 6S (25.2 Volt) operation in vehicles weighing less than 9lbs/4kg
 
running a castle 15/15y-2200kv motor, a castle X 6s esc,.with castle cap pack...32pinion with a 34spur..motor gets hot, esc seems ok....help!!
I'll add to @Danyrc s comments that your current setup is a speed setup.
You are geared for around 110 to 120 mph.

Setups geared for 80 or more mph can only make 1 pass and then need a cool down break.
If you want to run for long periods of time then you want to install the infraction center diff which is a 46t and use something like a 16t pinion. (Basically what a stock infraction has.)
 
Thank for replays, 1 pass at 100-102 mph. And it's hot, and has been known to go into thermo- shut down.sometimes..can you give me some ideas on a better motor, esc combo.? would like a 5mm shaft motor for my pinion gear set..
 
Thank for replays, 1 pass at 100-102 mph. And it's hot, and has been known to go into thermo- shut down.sometimes..can you give me some ideas on a better motor, esc combo.? would like a 5mm shaft motor for my pinion gear set..
MMX8s with 1717 is amazing.
If you can afford the XLX2 with 1717 that is a 150mph capable setup.
 
MMX8s with 1717 is amazing.
If you can afford the XLX2 with 1717 that is a 150mph capable setup.
Would you recommend a 2028 1100kv or 1717 paired with the xlx2? Does the 2028 provide enough of a torque advantage to gear significantly beyond the 1717 in final drive rpm?
 
Would you recommend a 2028 1100kv or 1717 paired with the xlx2? Does the 2028 provide enough of a torque advantage to gear significantly beyond the 1717 in final drive rpm?
Always this myth about torque.. Same can same power, same torque. Bigger can = more power, more torque. Brand/build quality will make a difference in efficiency
See kv as a build in gearbox. Which can be compensated by diff/spur/pinion up to a certain point where mechanical issues arise (gears don't fit, or motor/kv wiring prefers volts above amps)

2028 gives plenty more torque/power vs 1717. All you need is GP5 diffs, small spur (~27T) and big pinion (~48T+). As those gears can become pricey to the 4060/4070 TP motors come in to play as alternative with lots of power and higher kv(and amp draw) ranges.
 
Always this myth about torque.. Same can same power, same torque. Bigger can = more power, more torque. Brand/build quality will make a difference in efficiency
See kv as a build in gearbox. Which can be compensated by diff/spur/pinion up to a certain point where mechanical issues arise (gears don't fit, or motor/kv wiring prefers volts above amps)

2028 gives plenty more torque/power vs 1717. All you need is GP5 diffs, small spur (~27T) and big pinion (~48T+). As those gears can become pricey to the 4060/4070 TP motors come in to play as alternative with lots of power and higher kv(and amp draw) ranges.
Different can different torque, that's why I asked about deliverable torque difference between the 2028 format and 1717 format motors. They deliver different torque with the lower torque can delivering higher RPM, so the question remains, does the higher torque of the 2028 adequately make up for the lower KV rating enough to achieve higher final drive rpm than the higher KV motor?

And yes, I get it, same can same overall power output. Assuming perfect mechanical efficiency, running the 2028 800KV motor through gearing to perfectly match the RPM of the 2028 1100KV motor will result in the same torque at output
 
Different can different torque, that's why I asked about deliverable torque difference between the 2028 format and 1717 format motors. They deliver different torque with the lower torque can delivering higher RPM, so the question remains, does the higher torque of the 2028 adequately make up for the lower KV rating enough to achieve higher final drive rpm than the higher KV motor?

And yes, I get it, same can same overall power output. Assuming perfect mechanical efficiency, running the 2028 800KV motor through gearing to perfectly match the RPM of the 2028 1100KV motor will result in the same torque at output
Sorry I typed too quickly.
my second part was the answer. There is nothing to make up for in torque. Same can low kv + very high gearing = high kv + normal gearing, same wheel rpm. So bigger can = more room for high gearing and higher wheel rpm
 
Sorry I typed too quickly.
my second part was the answer. There is nothing to make up for in torque. Same can low kv + very high gearing = high kv + normal gearing, same wheel rpm. So bigger can = more room for high gearing and higher wheel rpm
Cool, thats what I was looking for.
 
I'm late to the party but I agree, the larger can should always win unless the related lower KV windings are small wire that cannot handle the amperage :ROFLMAO:
We know that to not be true with Brandon (Innovation RC) running his Infraction GT at 159mph a few times using the 2028 1100kv. Id be curious if the 800kv version has the smaller wire inside?
 
I'm late to the party but I agree, the larger can should always win unless the related lower KV windings are small wire that cannot handle the amperage :ROFLMAO:
We know that to not be true with Brandon (Innovation RC) running his Infraction GT at 159mph a few times using the 2028 1100kv. Id be curious if the 800kv version has the smaller wire inside?
When you go to extreme you always end up find some disadvantages to your choices which weren't obvious before. I would very likely have made the same mistake. You're still an Arrma Forum Hero in my book (y) (y)
 
btw, I do wanna share something, something stupid what happened to me.

Last week after a speedrun, my esc started bugging. Initially i though i had burned out my TP4060, but it seemed to be the esc. As i have 2 XLX2's i put in the other and figured i would look at the original later.
So I did 2 days ago. Hooked up a little test setup, motor + battery. It would start up normally and then cut off 2-5s seconds later. Tried a lot but no effect. I figured it was broken. I made a support ticket @castle and mailed back and forth with Joe Ford. After a couple of good suggestions i shared my esc settings and then he noticed i had my cuttoff voltage set at 22V. Which i had totally forgotten and didn't notice whiles testing with a single 4S battery.

Setting the cutoff voltage back to 3.0V by cell, solved the problem. What ever happened initially remains a mystery... My 2 cents is, don't just send stuff in for rma. Everyone can make stupid mistakes. Talk to support and let them do their magic. And obviously Joe@castle is an amazing guy!
 
btw, I do wanna share something, something stupid what happened to me.

Last week after a speedrun, my esc started bugging. Initially i though i had burned out my TP4060, but it seemed to be the esc. As i have 2 XLX2's i put in the other and figured i would look at the original later.
So I did 2 days ago. Hooked up a little test setup, motor + battery. It would start up normally and then cut off 2-5s seconds later. Tried a lot but no effect. I figured it was broken. I made a support ticket @castle and mailed back and forth with Joe Ford. After a couple of good suggestions i shared my esc settings and then he noticed i had my cuttoff voltage set at 22V. Which i had totally forgotten and didn't notice whiles testing with a single 4S battery.

Setting the cutoff voltage back to 3.0V by cell, solved the problem. What ever happened initially remains a mystery... My 2 cents is, don't just send stuff in for rma. Everyone can make stupid mistakes. Talk to support and let them do their magic. And obviously Joe@castle is an amazing guy!
Glad to hear it was a simple mistake and fix over needing a new ESC as they are not cheap
 
Glad to hear it was a simple mistake and fix over needing a new ESC as they are not cheap
Indeed, especially since I had a lot of (non-rc related) unexpected costs lately and i promised myself not to spend money on RC for 2 months.
Still got some stuff in shipping though ;)
 
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