What did you print/CAD today?

[Tex Koder]

First print with TPU. Think it turned out really good.

View attachment 288551

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What's all your settings?
I'm going to have to give it a go now.. Before I go to bed.
Enquiring Minds want to know! Now!!

 

[PeighDay]

What's all your settings?
I'm going to have to give it a go now.. Before I go to bed.
Enquiring Minds want to know! Now!!

Happy to share

Using mostly the default setting recommended by Creality.

For filament I am using this

Print temperature: 215
Heated bed: 30
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Print Speed: 30mm/s
Retraction: 2mm
Retraction Speed: 40mm/s

For the flexi-fish I used 20% infill - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4548643


Currently working on this atm - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3845304

 

[Tex Koder]

Happy to share

Using mostly the default setting recommended by Creality.

For filament I am using this
View attachment 288554

Print temperature: 215
Heated bed: 30
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Print Speed: 30mm/s
Retraction: 2mm
Retraction Speed: 40mm/s

For the flexi-fish I used 20% infill - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4548643


Currently working on this atm - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3845304

View attachment 288555

Thank you!
I'm going to give TPU a try right now


Ah..the old Flexi Shark!
Love it!! I got one in Hammerhead that's about 16" long... Somewhere in the house.. my girls got him hidden some place.

 

[PeighDay]

Thank you!
I'm going to give TPU a try right now


Ah..the old Flexi Shark!
Love it!! I got one in Hammerhead that's about 16" long... Somewhere in the house.. my girls got him hidden some place.

Wasn't sure if it would work with TPU or not since it seems most are made with PLA but I figured it's worth a shot and it might turn out really good. I want to try the Hammerhead one next.

 

[kspitters]

First print with TPU. Think it turned out really good.

View attachment 288551

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Looks great!

 

[ColosTommy]

Making me jealous, i wanna try some TPU

 

[PeighDay]

I really like working with TPU

Shark finished up late last night. Works as it should. Very happy how it turned out and so is my eldest son.

Hot off the press. Took about 9 hours to complete. TPU Wing for my Outcast 6s

Upped the temp to 230 in the first layer for better adhesion and then printed the rest at 225 at 40mm/s

Used 20% infill with 6 top and bottom layers

 

[kspitters]

I really like working with TPU

Shark finished up late last night. Works as it should. Very happy how it turned out and so is my eldest son.

Hot off the press. Took about 9 hours to complete. TPU Wing for my Outcast 6s

Upped the temp to 230 in the first layer for better adhesion and then printed the rest at 225 at 40mm/s

Used 20% infill with 6 top and bottom layers

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Still look great! That shark is beautiful!

 

[Moonstonemike]

Wanted to practice drawing parts since I can't set up my printer yet.
It's a mini keychain squarehead wrench to tighten up body panels/ interior panels at my work. The mechanics often forget or they loosen up from vibration.

 

[kspitters]

Wanted to practice drawing parts since I can't set up my printer yet.
It's a mini keychain squarehead wrench to tighten up body panels/ interior panels at my work. The mechanics often forget or they loosen up from vibration. View attachment 288827

Sweet!

 

[Tex Koder]

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/failed-3d-prints-lets-see-what-youve-got.61265/page-2#post-916408

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/failed-3d-prints-lets-see-what-youve-got.61265/page-2#post-916416

Maybe just fill them in a bit more?

Good suggestion.

Enlarged the tabs (from 10mm to 16mm) and double its layers..

Success!

A tad stringy/hairy..
I think I need to tweak the retraction a bit and up the travel speed... (Haven't dialed it in yet, after replacing the cracked Y-axis tensioner on this printer.)

It's Mr. @LibertyMKiii own custom designed -rear Speed Wing for his FC100 body.

Got his Approval ,after submitting it to him for review.

 

[kspitters]

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/failed-3d-prints-lets-see-what-youve-got.61265/page-2#post-916408

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/failed-3d-prints-lets-see-what-youve-got.61265/page-2#post-916416


Good suggestion.

Enlarged the tabs (from 10mm to 16mm) and double its layers..

View attachment 289035
Success!

View attachment 289036
A tad stringy/hairy..
I think I need to tweak the retraction a bit and up the travel speed... (Haven't dialed it in yet, after replacing the cracked Y-axis tensioner on this printer.)

View attachment 289037

It's Mr. @LibertyMKiii own custom designed -rear Speed Wing for his FC100 body.

Got his Approval ,after submitting it to him for review.

Cool design. I bet you’ll have it tuned up in no time.

 

[Camaroboy383]

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/failed-3d-prints-lets-see-what-youve-got.61265/page-2#post-916408

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/failed-3d-prints-lets-see-what-youve-got.61265/page-2#post-916416


Good suggestion.

Enlarged the tabs (from 10mm to 16mm) and double its layers..

View attachment 289035
Success!

View attachment 289036
A tad stringy/hairy..
I think I need to tweak the retraction a bit and up the travel speed... (Haven't dialed it in yet, after replacing the cracked Y-axis tensioner on this printer.)

View attachment 289037

It's Mr. @LibertyMKiii own custom designed -rear Speed Wing for his FC100 body.

Got his Approval ,after submitting it to him for review.

What hot end do you run on that machine tex? Still the factory PTFE lined one?.. or all metal?

The only reason I ask is the stringing.. your previous failed print wasn't stringy... sometimes as I'm sure you know by now, warped prints hydraulic the plastic in the nozzle... Hydraulically making its way past the nozzle and throat mating surfaces...

In a PTFE lined hot end it will hydraulically close in on itself sticking the filament in the PTFE.. sometimes stringing can be a sign of a imminent hot end clog/ failure..

 

[Tex Koder]

Cool design.

He makes Lots of Cool Shiet!

If people Only knew... Their head would

I was lucky to survive after visiting -getting a tour of- his little shop..

I bet you’ll have it tuned up in no time.

I'm sure I'll figure it out ,Eventually...

What hot end do you run on that machine tex? Still the factory PTFE lined one?.. or all metal?

The only reason I ask is the stringing.. your previous failed print wasn't stringy... sometimes as I'm sure you know by now, warped prints hydraulic the plastic in the nozzle... Hydraulically making its way past the nozzle and throat mating surfaces...

In a PTFE lined hot end it will hydraulically close in on itself sticking the filament in the PTFE.. sometimes stringing can be a sign of a imminent hot end clog/ failure..

I'm still on the stock hotend with this printer ,with-

0.6 hardened steel nozzle
Capricorn tube

I am using a custom 3D fan shroud/cooling duct (with the basic fans.)
Perhaps I need to get stronger fans.. maybe?

 

[kspitters]

He makes Lots of Cool Shiet!

If people Only knew... Their head would

I was lucky to survive after visiting -getting a tour of- his little shop..

That sounds awesome. Yes @LibertyMKiii does. I love reading through his old build threads. His work with his hands continually amazes me.

0.6 hardened steel nozzle
Capricorn tube

I am using a custom 3D fan shroud/cooling duct (with the basic fans.)
Perhaps I need to get stronger fans.. maybe?

Let me know how you go about stronger fans. I’ve been looking into it too.

 

[Camaroboy383]

He makes Lots of Cool Shiet!

If people Only knew... Their head would

I was lucky to survive after visiting -getting a tour of- his little shop..




I'm sure I'll figure it out ,Eventually...






I'm still on the stock hotend with this printer ,with-

0.6 hardened steel nozzle
Capricorn tube

I am using a custom 3D fan shroud/cooling duct (with the basic fans.)
Perhaps I need to get stronger fans.. maybe?

You may find that it's time for a rebuild if your retraction setting worked but seems to need further retraction or temp increases as time goes on..

When you pull the hot end apart you will almost definitely find a very interesting byproduct surrounding the PTFE in the throat.. it will have a grease like consistency and be extremely sticky... alcohol and q tips work very well to clean that up ..

If the throat is coated bad you can use a .17 hmr bore brush with alcohol on it to clean it up spotless...

If I see a filament stringing on previously good settings I know it's time..

A stronger fan on the break can help, but it's bound to happen regardless, the intervals may be further apart though..

If you find that you can not pull the PTFE from the hot end, heat it up to 260c and use a wrench on the push lock.. as you unscrew the push lock it will pull the PTFE up out of the hot end enough where it can be pulled by hand...

Cut the PTFE before removing the push lock, last thing you want is to drag the push lock through that nasty stuff..

I keep my PTFE long, so I can get several cuts / rebuilds off it before it needs total replacement...

 

[Tex Koder]

...
When you pull the hot end apart you will almost definitely find a very interesting byproduct surrounding the PTFE in the throat.. it will have a grease like consistency and be extremely sticky... alcohol and q tips work very well to clean that up ..

If the throat is coated bad you can use a .17 hmr bore brush with alcohol on it to clean it up spotless...

I am seeing that residue..
At first I thought it was some sort of filament leakage..
Couldn't figure out where it was coming from.. Would get a pool of it on top of my heating block...

Is it because of my cooling fan not Cooling the heatsink well enough??

...

I keep my PTFE long, so I can get several cuts / rebuilds off it before it needs total replacement...

I had cut mine at about 22" , thinking I Should keep it short for "better" performance (less filament slack...) ,maybe that's not a good idea after all..

 

[kspitters]

Starting my longest print yet. If this can’t hold me, I’m out 338 g of filament

30% cubic infill, 4 walls, holes in the middle to add walls. I have a cube, scaled up to
40mm and I can stand on it. The cube was printed at 15% infill and 1 wall. Really hoping this doesn’t end in the failed print thread.

 

[Tex Koder]

Starting my longest print yet. If this can’t hold me, I’m out 338 g of filament

30% cubic infill, 4 walls, holes in the middle to add walls. I have a cube, scaled up to
40mm and I can stand on it. The cube was printed at 15% infill and 1 wall.

Let's see some pics of the first few layers..

Really hoping this doesn’t end in the failed print thread.

And, yes.
Fingers crossed.

 

[Camaroboy383]

I am seeing that residue..
At first I thought it was some sort of filament leakage..
Couldn't figure out where it was coming from.. Would get a pool of it on top of my heating block...

Is it because of my cooling fan not Cooling the heatsink well enough??



I had cut mine at about 22" , thinking I Should keep it short for "better" performance (less filament slack...) ,maybe that's not a good idea after all..

Yeah, it happens to all of them, if it's PTFE lined it's bound to happen.. Any warped print will induce it quicker.. It boils down to the mating surface of the nozzle and the end of the PTFE.. It's impossible to seal those mating surfaces good enough to prevent hydraulic leakage... It's just all part of the game..

I think I mentioned it previously, but I'm forgetful.. when you install the PTFE into the hot end, leave the push lock loose one full turn from seated.. install the PTFE down to the nozzle, then tighten the push lock.. it will mate with the nozzle face better, not preventing, but surely slowing the degradation down...

For direct drive units, cut the PTFE a little long so the push lock compresses it in the break just slightly.. if the push lock screws down fully by hand it's not long enough..


Yeah, cutting the PTFE to proper length typically means your tossing it if it fails.. I keep it around after it's spent for my direct drive and other things like feeder mods, exits out of filament dryers etc...

Alot of people think it can be a performance upgrade with shorter PTFE, to be honest, I feel that narrative is pushed pretty hard on the 3d printing community....It's simply not true unfortunately, this very well could be a well planned racket on PTFE sales...

I guess the easiest way to explain why it's false is to compare an ender 3 to a cr10 s5.. same everything, yet the PTFE is miles long on a s5.. The only difference is in the retraction distance to compensate for PTFE whip on long Bowdens, and it's so slight, maybe a mm or two.. constrain the PTFE whip and the retraction distance would be identical... Easily accomplished by zip tie's around the wire loom and PTFE...

Heat break fan speed and size really won't matter, as the leakage happens at the nozzle where it is molten, not up in the break.. but a better fan on the break is never a bad idea..