What did you print/CAD today?

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Let's see some pics of the first few layers..



And, yes.
Fingers crossed.
Failed last night, I cut it pretty quick.

Almost looks like the z gantry didn’t move up a layer. Any ideas what went wrong? I need help🤦



Also, it looks a bit like the one side is warped just a little in the corner. It was supposed to be filleted but this doesn’t look right. I’m gonna go level the bed again.

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Failed last night, I cut it pretty quick.

Almost looks like the z gantry didn’t move up a layer. Any ideas what went wrong? I need help🤦



Also, it looks a bit like the one side is warped just a little in the corner. It was supposed to be filleted but this doesn’t look right. I’m gonna go level the bed again.

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What's it suppose to be?

The weird looking layer could be due to something with the gcode..
Is it your design?
 
Yes it is my design. It’s for the trainer. He’s paying privately and it’s not for the gym.

Honestly, what it looks like is a "double stack"..
I've experienced something like that when I accidentally placed two -or more- exact item/parts on top of each other -in the slicer
and I didn't realize it...

Which caused the printer to printer that spot/section over itself several times... Causing what you see..
Looks like the nozzle ran over the previous layer several times over..

******

Side Note -
I've also read that a lame SD card may cause gcode corruptions...
Which I'm sure can happen too.

But not sure IF that's the case here..
 
Honestly, what it looks like is a "double stack"..
I've experienced something like that when I accidentally placed two -or more- exact item/parts on top of each other -in the slicer
and I didn't realize it...

Which caused the printer to printer that spot/section over itself several times... Causing what you see..
Looks like the nozzle ran over the previous layer several times over..

******

Side Note -
I've also read that a lame SD card may cause gcode corruptions...
Which I'm sure can happen too.

But not sure IF that's the case here..
Thanks. I’ll resclice it and send it on
 
To me it looks like you're approaching a rebuild.. you can see in the first layer that it's starving for material.. look at the filament at the feeder and just past, pull it and take a look.. if you see chopped out chunks where the feeder was stripping the filament you're clogged...

If you find you can't pull the filament out without a ton of force it's surely time for a rebuild, no question..

How large was your fillet? Lower / upside down fillet's with larger than 2mm will suffer terribly and surely warp up until it can get back to a vertical wall.. try to keep fillet's small if it's upside down.. even a 2mm fillet will look good on a corner, doesn't need to be large..👍

Any, seriously any, warpage during a print no matter how large or small will hydraulic the hot end .. repeated hydraulic scenarios will certainly lead to impending doom for the hot end... You have to remember it takes layer upon layer before it can sort the warp on its own, this intern leads to hours of being hydraulic..
 
Any, seriously any, warpage during a print no matter how large or small will hydraulic the hot end .. repeated hydraulic scenarios will certainly lead to impending doom for the hot end... You have to remember it takes layer upon layer before it can sort the warp on its own, this intern leads to hours of being hydraulic..
What does hydraulic mean in this context?
 
I’ve been wondering why the first layer keeps having gaps. I’ve printed a bunch of 1-2 layer thick wings for gliders and they’re all having gaps🤦
Thanks for that info. What would a rebuild consist of?
If you find you can't pull the filament out without a ton of force it's surely time for a rebuild, no question..
Well, it takes a ton of force…
How large was your fillet? Lower / upside down fillet's with larger than 2mm will suffer terribly and surely warp up until it can get back to a vertical wall.. try to keep fillet's small if it's upside down.. even a 2mm fillet will look good on a corner, doesn't need to be large..👍
1.5 mm fillet
Any, seriously any, warpage during a print no matter how large or small will hydraulic the hot end .. repeated hydraulic scenarios will certainly lead to impending doom for the hot end... You have to remember it takes layer upon layer before it can sort the warp on its own, this intern leads to hours of being hydraulic..
What does hydraulic mean in this context?
I’m guessing similar to clog based on his wording.
 
Thanks. I’ll resclice it and send it on

Yeah, move that piece to another section of the print bed.. Pay attention to see if there's another (copy of the) same part underneath each other.

In fact you can test and see what happens when you "double stack" (Just so you know what to look out for in the future..)
Use a small 3D part , make a copy of itself and place it exactly on top of each other (X,Y,Z positions = same for both items) and have it printed.

You wouldn't even know that it's happening in the slicer (even looking at it ,under the Preview) when it's directly on top of each other Until you go to print... And the printer starts to double tracking itself.

That was Very Frustrating!!!

I couldn't figure it out ,what was happening UNTIL I happen to go back to the slicer and move the Part around and realize there was another Exact copy "underneath" it...
 
What does hydraulic mean in this context?

Pressurized, there is already a ton of pressure in the hot end in normal printing conditions, especially with a .4 nozzle.. this on its own is enough to warrant a rebuild every so often... Block the nozzle outlet and the pressure increases exponentially...

Obviously we always wait until a problem arises before we dig in to get the most out of the parts we pay for.. 👍..
I’ve been wondering why the first layer keeps having gaps. I’ve printed a bunch of 1-2 layer thick wings for gliders and they’re all having gaps🤦
Thanks for that info. What would a rebuild consist of?

Well, it takes a ton of force…

1.5 mm fillet


I’m guessing similar to clog based on his wording.

Yeah, surely seems like you're clogging.. that filament should pull right out when the block is heated, should be almost as easy as when it's fed in during a spool change..

Rebuild would be shortened or replaced PTFE, nozzle and cleaning of the heat break throat.. couple post's back I replied to Tex In a pretty detailed break down.. check that out, it will be handy.. 👍.. I definitely don't want to type it all again...😂😂


Almost have the skeeride mocked up.. 😎.. about 400+ hours of print time..😱 good thing I have tons of printer's..😉😂

IMG_20230331_100831467.jpg
 
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Yeah, move that piece to another section of the print bed.. Pay attention to see if there's another (copy of the) same part underneath each other.

In fact you can test and see what happens when you "double stack" (Just so you know what to look out for in the future..)
Use a small 3D part , make a copy of itself and place it exactly on top of each other (X,Y,Z positions = same for both items) and have it printed.

You wouldn't even know that it's happening in the slicer (even looking at it ,under the Preview) when it's directly on top of each other Until you go to print... And the printer starts to double tracking itself.

That was Very Frustrating!!!

I couldn't figure it out ,what was happening UNTIL I happen to go back to the slicer and move the Part around and realize there was another Exact copy "underneath" it...
Moved it, def wasn’t double stacking. Thanks for putting that in my mind though. Looked through the slicer, just one model.
 
Pressurized, there is already a ton of pressure in the hot end in normal printing conditions, especially with a .4 nozzle.. this on its own is enough to warrant a rebuild every so often... Block the nozzle outlet and the pressure increases exponentially...

Obviously we always wait until a problem arises before we dig in to get the most out of the parts we pay for.. 👍..


Yeah, surely seems like you're clogging.. that filament should pull right out when the block is heated, should be almost as easy as when it's fed in during a spool change..

Rebuild would be shortened or replaced PTFE, nozzle and cleaning of the heat break throat.. couple post's back I replied to Tex In a pretty detailed break down.. check that out, it will be handy.. 👍.. I definitely don't want to type it all again...😂😂


Almost have the skeeride mocked up.. 😎.. about 400+ hours of print time..😱 good thing I have tons of printer's..😉😂

View attachment 289498

1680282632583.png


Holy SnowFlakes!!!
That's So Sexy..
Would like More info & Pics ,Please.

And, Does it Fly?
Jump Snowmobile GIF



PS: What's your definition of > "ton of printers"?
 
Pressurized, there is already a ton of pressure in the hot end in normal printing conditions, especially with a .4 nozzle.. this on its own is enough to warrant a rebuild every so often... Block the nozzle outlet and the pressure increases exponentially...

Obviously we always wait until a problem arises before we dig in to get the most out of the parts we pay for.. 👍..


Yeah, surely seems like you're clogging.. that filament should pull right out when the block is heated, should be almost as easy as when it's fed in during a spool change..

Rebuild would be shortened or replaced PTFE, nozzle and cleaning of the heat break throat.. couple post's back I replied to Tex In a pretty detailed break down.. check that out, it will be handy.. 👍.. I definitely don't want to type it all again...😂😂


Almost have the skeeride mocked up.. 😎.. about 400+ hours of print time..😱 good thing I have tons of printer's..😉😂

View attachment 289498

That’s sweet! What materials?
 
View attachment 289505

Holy SnowFlakes!!!
That's So Sexy..
Would like More info & Pics ,Please.

And, Does it Fly?
Jump Snowmobile GIF



PS: What's your definition of > "ton of printers"?

I will definitely post more pics when I get a chance.. 👍.. still have to mock up the other side suspension, cut hinge pins and get the track together.. 😎.. once it's all together I'll start to decide what parts deserve carbon, aluminum and such.. this one is 100% printed.. even the 8mm jack shaft for the drive sprocket.. needed to get an idea of what loads and where they will be before I venture off making parts that don't matter.. 👍


I'm sure I will see if she fly's...😉..


I have 12 printer's, I tasked 8 of them to this job.. everything from an ender to a Chiron was soaking up that wattage..😂😎
That’s sweet! What materials?


This mock up is 100% pla, besides the 95a TPU track.... so I can get an idea of what needs good material, wether carbon, aluminum, nylons, etc... Being pla prints so nicely so easily, it's best to use that for positives in my sand casting and mock up.👍.. hell I might even leave the original all pla for a light use/ shelf queen.. 😎
 
Yeah, it happens to all of them, if it's PTFE lined it's bound to happen.. Any warped print will induce it quicker.. It boils down to the mating surface of the nozzle and the end of the PTFE.. It's impossible to seal those mating surfaces good enough to prevent hydraulic leakage... It's just all part of the game..👍

I think I mentioned it previously, but I'm forgetful.. when you install the PTFE into the hot end, leave the push lock loose one full turn from seated.. install the PTFE down to the nozzle, then tighten the push lock.. it will mate with the nozzle face better, not preventing, but surely slowing the degradation down...

THAT sounds like a Pro Tip advice right there 👍
I will make a Strong Mental Note of this.
Thank You!

For direct drive units, cut the PTFE a little long so the push lock compresses it in the break just slightly.. if the push lock screws down fully by hand it's not long enough..

Okay, another Pro Tip!
Noted.



Yeah, cutting the PTFE to proper length typically means your tossing it if it fails.. I keep it around after it's spent for my direct drive and other things like feeder mods, exits out of filament dryers etc...

Alot of people think it can be a performance upgrade with shorter PTFE, to be honest, I feel that narrative is pushed pretty hard on the 3d printing community....It's simply not true unfortunately, this very well could be a well planned racket on PTFE sales...🤔

I guess the easiest way to explain why it's false is to compare an ender 3 to a cr10 s5.. same everything, yet the PTFE is miles long on a s5.. The only difference is in the retraction distance to compensate for PTFE whip on long Bowdens, and it's so slight, maybe a mm or two.. constrain the PTFE whip and the retraction distance would be identical... Easily accomplished by zip tie's around the wire loom and PTFE...👍

Heat break fan speed and size really won't matter, as the leakage happens at the nozzle where it is molten, not up in the break.. but a better fan on the break is never a bad idea..😎

Greatly appreciate all you feedback and insight.
I'm taking everything to heart and will apply the knowledge shared.
Thank you sir.
🙏
 
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