What did you work on today?

[DoNoHarm]

Been working last couple of days on the ARRMA Tsaagan 6s BLX 1/12th 4wd truck By TpParts RcXtremeView attachment 28099

Mother of god that thing is hilarious LOL. Please make a thread about it.

Bending back pushrods on my e revo, nothing spectacular. Also went to run the senton today and it was stuck in programming mode. Restarted it 3 or 4 times and it was the same deal. Finally I got it to fire up and off I went. Ran great! I shall come up with a solution soon, as I was hoping the set button was jammed... which it was not.

 

[TpPartsRcXtreme]

Can be found in build log section

 

[olds97_lss]

Didn't really work on anything yet. Thinking about working on my stampede 4x4 to modify some hot racing 12mm hex 15mm extensions on it.

I did make a quick video showing speed of a few servos. Just bought a JX DC5821LV for $16 on RCJuice. I have to say, not a bad little servo on the bench. I don't think it's putting out the 300oz of torque it's rated for, as it feels about the same as the savox 0231MG. A hair quicker, quieter and smaller though:

Had these all in it at 6V off a freshly charged 6V receiver pack:
Servo Compare 2019/01/26
Traxxas 2075 w/savox metal gears
Arrma ADS-15M 15KG
Power KS-3620 20KG
JX DC5821LV 21KG
Savox SW-0231MG

 

[olds97_lss]

Put 15mm offset 12mm hubs on my stampede. I think they were made for an axial, not sure how well they will hold up. They are built to work on a normal round 5mm shaft with a pin through it, but I have MIP's that are solid with flat spots. So I drilled the opposing side of where the pin goes through the hubs and cut the threaded pins they provide down to set screws as well as adding the additional set screw on the other side. Added red locktight as well. Not sure if it will hold or not, but the width looks like it will add some much needed stability on this thing, now that I'm running 3S.

 

[ninadada]

Finished my new LWB build. It was fun! Notorious on a V3 Talion chassis, Outcast body. I spent more time modifying the body to sit just right than everything else combined. The lightweight yellow fiber glass rods shoe goo'ed to the underside of the bed adds stiffness while still allowing some flex. A strip of 1/2" closed cell foam rests on the T2T brace for extra support. The body sits 1/2"-3/4" lower so the factory support brace no longer fits.

 

[Notorious J]

Finished my new LWB build. It was fun! Notorious on a V3 Talion chassis, Outcast body. I spent more time modifying the body to sit just right than everything else combined. The lightweight yellow fiber glass rods shoe goo'ed to the underside of the bed addsView attachment 28190View attachment 28191View attachment 28192View attachment 28193View attachment 28194View attachment 28195View attachment 28196View attachment 28197View attachment 28198View attachment 28199 stiffness while still allowing some flex. A strip of 1/2" closed cell foam rests on the T2T brace for extra support. The body sits 1/2"-3/4" lower so the factory support brace no longer fits.

Thanks for sharing. Those tips for the body will come in handy when I finally decide to switch over to my Kraton chassis?

 

[Notorious J]

While working on taking the stripped screw out of the center dif aluminum X mount, the head of the screw sheared off and left the remainder of the screw inside, with nothing to grab. I had to carefully drill down the center of the screw, using three different size bits from 1/16 to 3/32. Finally had enough for the extractor to grab, heated it up, and out she came. No damage to the HR aluminum at all. Feeling very relieved right now.

 

[Dutch213]

Finished my new LWB build. It was fun! Notorious on a V3 Talion chassis, Outcast body. I spent more time modifying the body to sit just right than everything else combined. The lightweight yellow fiber glass rods shoe goo'ed to the underside of the bed adds stiffness while still allowing some flex. A strip of 1/2" closed cell foam rests on the T2T brace for extra support. The body sits 1/2"-3/4" lower so the factory support brace no longer fits.View attachment 28190View attachment 28191View attachment 28192View attachment 28193View attachment 28194View attachment 28195View attachment 28196View attachment 28197View attachment 28198View attachment 28199

well done brother....looks great...!!

 

[Dutch213]

you should be able to lower the body mounts to lowest setting in back and second lowest setting in front as well... That will give you that nice look....

 

[olds97_lss]

Finished my new LWB build. View attachment 28199

What wheelie bar is that? Kind of looks like t-bone, but the wheels I've gotten on my 3 t-bones don't look like those.

 

[Dutch213]

looks like a tbone with a fat brace

 

[R-mac]

Total strip down for me, not the most enjoyable day. Every part dis assembled and degreased , cleaned and dried. Truck was 2nd hand and I had put 3 full days in since I got it. It needed the tlc. Stuff that's wore being replaced , plus a few upgrades.
Tried to get the dboots of stock rims, to no avail, blister on my hand. Boiled them but must not have been enough time, will try the oven method next. They were never vented and are full of crud , they vibrate and wobble very badly. Set of trenchers on rims waiting to go on, vented from the get go.
Couple of very tight screws, no striping. Was getting a loud crunching noise before the tear down, diffs were spinning nice enough, pinion gear looks a bit wore, hopefully just it.

 

[Dutch213]

you gotta invest in some MIP's and a cheap cordless hex screwdriver... the ryobi is good "and i hate ryobi with a passion" still recommend...

 

[ninadada]

What wheelie bar is that? Kind of looks like t-bone, but the wheels I've gotten on my 3 t-bones don't look like those.

That's a Tbone, just as it came. Ordered it in December. Maybe they made changes?

 

[Cheapbastard]

What wheelie bar is that? Kind of looks like t-bone, but the wheels I've gotten on my 3 t-bones don't look like those.

That's a Tbone, just as it came. Ordered it in December. Maybe they made changes?

T-bone did change their wheels the wheels have bearings in them now so they roll better.

https://tboneracing.net/collections...bro-wheel-1-3-4-solid-tire-aluminum-hub-80003

 

[TraverseCity420]

Put in new camber links and swapped all the plastic pillow balls over to aluminum.. All I can do today mail man didn't bring me much to work with

 

[bicketybam]

Upgraded to a metal diff cup in the center diff of my Rock Rey and mostnofnit back together. I'm waiting a metal rear driveshaft and the carbon fiber body panels.

I also started the swap over to the new M2C chassis for my Kraton.

 

[Dutch213]

my Notorious is on the Jenny Craig plan.... All needless aluminum GONE!! going back to all stock other than towers and braces..

 

[olds97_lss]

T-bone did change their wheels the wheels have bearings in them now so they roll better.

https://tboneracing.net/collections...bro-wheel-1-3-4-solid-tire-aluminum-hub-80003

Oh! Nice! The 4 I have are just aluminum with a bolt through them. They get sloppy over time. Not sure I wasn't to spend $32 on wheelie bar wheels to replace them all though... lol!

Worked on my BB revo. Got the P2 (I think) hot racing rockers installed, then decided to dig through my parts to find the original THS big block header. I never liked what I ended up with to make the pipe fit and lay flat. The THS BB pipe/header was meant to be used with the traxxas big block kit, which puts the engine down low, but you could only run certain engines or without a pullstart to use a bump start... I used a new era type mount that raised it up and you could use whatever BB you felt like. But, this caused the BB pipe to stick up all weird.

So, I had mangled an LST2 header, cut it, bent it, almost smashed it, which I'm sure wasn't helping the flow of it, but it fit and worked, so I left it.

For some reason, I couldn't bring myself to cut the THS header. Kind of funny, I apparently thought about it as there was a saw mark in it. Now it should flow a little better as the hard bend part wasn't smashed like the LST2 header I tried bending to fit.

I think my ERBEv1 needs a bit maintenance on ball ends. Then I will have my all nitro's and electrics in tip top shape. Just waiting for warmth or spring. Planning on running nitro's a bit more this Spring at least. Shame to leave $2000 worth of trucks on a shelf and not use them. LOL!

 

[CrashBoom]

Bunch of stuff I'm starting on tonight . . . T-Bone front/rear bumpers, servo and servo mount, Tekno shock ends, cut off/replace motor pinion, reinforce body . . . cold as **** this week, figure I should put a dent in the procrastination bin.