What did you work on today?

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Took the tray off for the last time “hopefully” installed the saga strap. “Awesome quality”

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Last month I sheared the rear input of a new 4s slipper clutch off in the Big Rock and was pissed so I put it off to the side, well I now know a bearing on the main input gear failed causing the clutch failure. I've had a hot-racing diff case waiting to be installed for a couple month's now, at least I can check that off the list. The best part of this repair was that once done I got to disassemble and re-clean the diff housing, turns out that one bb found it's way back into the housing and jammed the input/ring gear's while installing the motor, I know patience come's with age or else this thing would be up for target practice, BUT IT'S ALL AWESOME NOW!
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good idea. what voltage do they need?
As far as I know? A wall charger ‘depending on brand’ including cigarette/usb plug in most vehicles “for example” my ford focus hatchback.. puts out between .05 amps on the usb output. Cigarette usb plug. 1 amp to 5 amps. “Common”
wall plugs… for example “Samsung” has a 35 watt and a 25 watt… which even then with a “micro-usb” 1.0 and 2.0 standard downstream port, delivers up to 500 mA or 0.5A. MUST be at 5V; or else, there will be no power supply. The DC input port uses a 5.5mm/2.1mm plug, with a voltage ranging from 6.5V~12V. With a DC input, the output ports could switch between 3.3V and 5V. But I can’t recall what I’m set at? I’m either 5.7 or 6.8 volts between those numbers I’m not exactly sure.. but I won’t go above 7 volts. There’s no need/reason for me to since I’m doing speed l runs. I like a little delay action to not over correct. Hopefully this helps.
 
As far as I know? A wall charger ‘depending on brand’ including cigarette/usb plug in most vehicles “for example” my ford focus hatchback.. puts out between .05 amps on the usb output. Cigarette usb plug. 1 amp to 5 amps. “Common”
wall plugs… for example “Samsung” has a 35 watt and a 25 watt… which even then with a “micro-usb” 1.0 and 2.0 standard downstream port, delivers up to 500 mA or 0.5A. MUST be at 5V; or else, there will be no power supply. The DC input port uses a 5.5mm/2.1mm plug, with a voltage ranging from 6.5V~12V. With a DC input, the output ports could switch between 3.3V and 5V. But I can’t recall what I’m set at? I’m either 5.7 or 6.8 volts between those numbers I’m not exactly sure.. but I won’t go above 7 volts. There’s no need/reason for me to since I’m doing speed l runs. I like a little delay action to not over correct. Hopefully this helps.
I was going to guess 5v. Do you plug it into the rx?
 
I was going to guess 5v. Do you plug it into the rx?
Yes. Here’s the end result. Works perfectly. I still have to organize how I manage the wiring

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Decided to wire some of the powder coating off so that it has more of a chance to stick.
 

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Seems I spend more time tinkering with the diffs on my OC EXB than actually running it. So.. today, I did some work on the rear diff. Watched a video by Adam Drake and he mentioned for a truck and/or truggy, if there is grinding when you start going forward, chances are rear diff needs to be shimmed tighter to the housing. I had noticed some grinding at low speed but it clears up once I accelerate. Anyway, checked the diff spacing and I was able to get another shim on the gear side without much force, tried three and it was extremely tight, so I switched back to two. Haven’t run it yet to see if the low speed grinding is fixed. Oh, video also said if you hear grinding when stopping, check front diff housing shim.

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Worked on my fireteam… yanked the max6 combo out and threw in the k8 setup.. figure the lower kv will help with this pig. View attachment 261391



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Also worked on the Xmaxx a bit more..
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Holy crap !!! I want to see a video of that FT !!!!
And , what servo are you running in the Xmaxx , cause with mine apart now , I am going to change out my servo even though it works , it's really slow .
Was just gonna do the 2085x and call it a day to not get all involved hacking apart the chassis to do the real 1/5 servo . But , from some vids , there are a lot of people doing the 1/10 adapter and 1/10 high torque .
 
I finally got my work bench finished up and have started the "moving in" process.
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I made a copy of Scorched RC's rear wings, both their own design and Raz Shifrin's Batwing. They share pretty much all the same parts with the exception of the side panels (yes, the top plate is slightly different, but not enough so as to warrant making both).

Here's the Scorched RC design, all finished up.
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Still need to cut the side panels for the Batwing, but I've had enough of carbon fiber dust for one day.
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I finally got my work bench finished up and have started the "moving in" process.
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I made a copy of Scorched RC's rear wings, both their own design and Raz Shifrin's Batwing. They share pretty much all the same parts with the exception of the side panels (yes, the top plate is slightly different, but not enough so as to warrant making both).

Here's the Scorched RC design, all finished up.
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Still need to cut the side panels for the Batwing, but I've had enough of carbon fiber dust for one day.
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Wow!
Are you cutting your CF with a band saw or CNC router?
Your cuts and final finish look OEM Perfect!!
 
Thanks guys :)

I'm rough cutting with a Dremel and the composite speed-click cutting discs. Then I take it down to final size with the Dremel and a coarse sanding drum and a bench grinder and then do a final pass with a fine sanding drum on the Dremel in this drill press stand they make for Dremel. I break the edges with a quick scrub with whatever sandpaper I have within arms reach. That's pretty much it.
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