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Replacing the ring/pinion in my outcast rear diff. Trying to stick with the arrma 2 piece cup... this time I cleaned out the screw holes with a q-tip and DA, then put a liberal dot of red loctite in. The cup is sealed on the cap end with RTV only to make the cup thinner and I was able to comfortably put 2 shims in on the ring gear side and the mesh feels perfect.

However, as I was putting the screws in the bulk/diff cap... 2 of them stripped. Then as I was removing the hinge pin retainers, my new (cheap garbage) 2mm ball end tip snapped off in the screw... 99% of the reason I had the bulk off the truck was to replace the hinge pin retainers after my last crash destroyed them and a pin... then I found the ring gear damaged issue... then the shims being ground up inside the case... and I do not have spares of the retainers. Took me 20 minutes with an awl and magnet to get the driver tip out of the stupid screw!
2019-1109-Broken2mmBallEnd.jpg


Then as I put the truck back on the shelf, fully assembled, thinking I was done, I sat down at my desk and saw the scorpion titanium ackerman bar laying there waiting to be installed. With my luck, the M2C chassis will break in half when I pick the truck up to start replacing the ackerman bar!

It never ends...
 
Replacing the ring/pinion in my outcast rear diff. Trying to stick with the arrma 2 piece cup... this time I cleaned out the screw holes with a q-tip and DA, then put a liberal dot of red loctite in. The cup is sealed on the cap end with RTV only to make the cup thinner and I was able to comfortably put 2 shims in on the ring gear side and the mesh feels perfect.

However, as I was putting the screws in the bulk/diff cap... 2 of them stripped. Then as I was removing the hinge pin retainers, my new (cheap garbage) 2mm ball end tip snapped off in the screw... 99% of the reason I had the bulk off the truck was to replace the hinge pin retainers after my last crash destroyed them and a pin... then I found the ring gear damaged issue... then the shims being ground up inside the case... and I do not have spares of the retainers. Took me 20 minutes with an awl and magnet to get the driver tip out of the stupid screw!
2019-1109-Broken2mmBallEnd.jpg


Then as I put the truck back on the shelf, fully assembled, thinking I was done, I sat down at my desk and saw the scorpion titanium ackerman bar laying there waiting to be installed. With my luck, the M2C chassis will break in half when I pick the truck up to start replacing the ackerman bar!

It never ends...
I dislike ball ends for this very reason.
 
Replacing the ring/pinion in my outcast rear diff. Trying to stick with the arrma 2 piece cup... this time I cleaned out the screw holes with a q-tip and DA, then put a liberal dot of red loctite in. The cup is sealed on the cap end with RTV only to make the cup thinner and I was able to comfortably put 2 shims in on the ring gear side and the mesh feels perfect.

However, as I was putting the screws in the bulk/diff cap... 2 of them stripped. Then as I was removing the hinge pin retainers, my new (cheap garbage) 2mm ball end tip snapped off in the screw... 99% of the reason I had the bulk off the truck was to replace the hinge pin retainers after my last crash destroyed them and a pin... then I found the ring gear damaged issue... then the shims being ground up inside the case... and I do not have spares of the retainers. Took me 20 minutes with an awl and magnet to get the driver tip out of the stupid screw!
2019-1109-Broken2mmBallEnd.jpg


Then as I put the truck back on the shelf, fully assembled, thinking I was done, I sat down at my desk and saw the scorpion titanium ackerman bar laying there waiting to be installed. With my luck, the M2C chassis will break in half when I pick the truck up to start replacing the ackerman bar!

It never ends...
Those screws are the ones that did in my 2mm MIP. For whatever reason, they become so tight that even a great driver would have problems. I have since replaced with 2.5mm cap head screws, even though the holes are counter sunk. I'm still using the cap heads now that I've switched to aluminum hangers. If I can, I'll switch out every flat screw in my 6s truck.
 
Traded for a losi Baja Rey. When you give it gas sometimes it sounds like rubber is flapping like the tires came un glued. The noise is coming from rear differential. Is it shot or is normal for this truck? Doesn’t affect it at all, hails ass up and down the street.
 
Painted a brute body for sons notorious. I brought out all my old air brush stuff tried er out. Still got the patience. I think it turned out good. I pointed him in the direction and Nolan painted the colours he wanted. We also installed the hr centre diff. I put in 300k fluid. Snowing now so we will test it later. .
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I got the Noto diffs replaced and now I'm back in business. Built a couple smaller wooden ramps for low flyin, crazy drivin that I'll photo soon. Also set up a 15g propane tank outside to fuel my indoor shop heater. I think I'll cut a couple donuts from a pool noodle to seal the hole I drilled in the shed a bit on either side.

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I got the Noto diffs replaced and now I'm back in business. Built a couple smaller wooden ramps for low flyin, crazy drivin that I'll photo soon. Also set up a 15g propane tank outside to fuel my indoor shop heater. I think I'll cut a couple donuts from a pool noodle to seal the hole I drilled in the shed a bit on either side.

View attachment 53442
Great stuff.
 
I'm working on my brand new BRCC.

RTR stands Ready To Rebuild, right?:cool:

All bearings, pivot balls, steering bushings, servo etc. are on the list for replacement. This is how she looks after one run.
 

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I'm working on my brand new BRCC.

RTR stands Ready To Rebuild, right?:cool:

All bearings, pivot balls, steering bushings, servo etc. are on the list for replacement. This is how she looks after one run.

What pivot balls are you using?
 
What pivot balls are you using?
I would assume Hot Racing, they are the only ones I know of that make them, I really wish someone made some steel ones though.
 
I have the aluminum Hot Racing pivot balls, when they wear out I'll grab steel ones out of rod ends from some other car. There is a replacement set of rod ends for a traxxas car that have steel balls which fit, I don't know the part number but I saw them at my LHS after I already had my HR ones at home.
 
I would assume Hot Racing, they are the only ones I know of that make them, I really wish someone made some steel ones though.
If you really want to get crazy - check out Lunsford Racing - they have Titanium pivot balls. They're real - and they're spectacular! :ROFLMAO:
 
If you really want to get crazy - check out Lunsford Racing - they have Titanium pivot balls. They're real - and they're spectacular! :ROFLMAO:
I've seen a lot of their stuff, was going to buy a set of hinge pins from them for my RC10B2.
 
I got the Noto diffs replaced and now I'm back in business. Built a couple smaller wooden ramps for low flyin, crazy drivin that I'll photo soon. Also set up a 15g propane tank outside to fuel my indoor shop heater. I think I'll cut a couple donuts from a pool noodle to seal the hole I drilled in the shed a bit on either side.

View attachment 53442
Is your shed vented at all? I was considering buying one of these for my garage this winter and am concerned with the vapor buildup. I guess a little moisture won’t be bad in my dry garage, especially since the door gets opened at least twice a day. Just wondering if you should even seal the hole. ??‍♂️
 
Is your shed vented at all? I was considering buying one of these for my garage this winter and am concerned with the vapor buildup. I guess a little moisture won’t be bad in my dry garage, especially since the door gets opened at least twice a day. Just wondering if you should even seal the hole. ??‍♂️

I have lower wall vents in the back beneath the work table and also along the full peak of the roof is a ridge vent. Also, this heater is designed for indoor use but apparently it is unsafe to have a large propane bottle inside (or so I was told) so I have it outside now. I suppose that small hole won't need to be sealed but I just wanted it to look cleaner.
 
Those screws are the ones that did in my 2mm MIP. For whatever reason, they become so tight that even a great driver would have problems. I have since replaced with 2.5mm cap head screws, even though the holes are counter sunk. I'm still using the cap heads now that I've switched to aluminum hangers. If I can, I'll switch out every flat screw in my 6s truck.
I do the same if I can, not usually the countersunk/flat head screws though. But I replace any button head 2mm I can with a 2.5mm cap head. Kind of bit me in the butt when I installed the scorpion ackerman bar. There's a reason they use button heads to attach the tie-rods, cap heads hit the bottom of the upper arm. I dremeled the outside edge of the cap head at an angle, so it barely grazes the arm now.

2019-1110-Outcast-ScorpionAckermanPlate.jpg


It came with plates to replace the little wings on the axle carriers as well, so I put those on with cap heads too instead of stock button heads:
2019-1110-Outcast-ScorpionAckermanPlateAndAxleCarrierPlate.jpg
 
I do the same if I can, not usually the countersunk/flat head screws though. But I replace any button head 2mm I can with a 2.5mm cap head. Kind of bit me in the butt when I installed the scorpion ackerman bar. There's a reason they use button heads to attach the tie-rods, cap heads hit the bottom of the upper arm. I dremeled the outside edge of the cap head at an angle, so it barely grazes the arm now.

2019-1110-Outcast-ScorpionAckermanPlate.jpg


It came with plates to replace the little wings on the axle carriers as well, so I put those on with cap heads too instead of stock button heads:
2019-1110-Outcast-ScorpionAckermanPlateAndAxleCarrierPlate.jpg
I do the same thing with all my flat and button head screws that I can lol.
Cap head > all.
 
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