What do you do when your transmitter loses connection but the car keeps going?

[Senton_Prime]

Any gyro in the receiver?

Thanks, I appreciate you saying this, all I can do is move forward and try not to make the same mistake again


It does kinda make sense from the 'mum's' perspective and I apologised profusely at the time but there's not a lot more I can do after that, except try not to make the same mistake again. I wouldn't have said it at the time but I do agree with what @carcktondriver is saying, especially considering all they were doing was sliding down the ramps, right next to an actual playground with slides that were completely empty. I'm not saying I'm absolved or anything but if you want your kid to be safe I've never understood the parents that do this, okay if it's empty when you arrive but I've had people enter with toddlers when I'm driving big cars fast and jumping high, they seem to expect me to take the precautions or leave. It just seems like an odd choice to me. Anyway, lesson learned, hopefully they realised the dangers of skateparks too, but probably not. I'll be going at 7am from now on to avoid these kinds of people

Yea if she was just being a Karen and didn't accept your apology then it is what it is, also I agree that a skatepark isn't the place to lolley gag around with your lil boppers!!

 

[jkflow]

Turning off the transmitter is always the worst idea, now you willingly enable the worst possible scenario.

Try out your failsafe with wheels up, or motor not even connected. That will tell you what happens in real life.

 

[SrC]

I’m starting to see this information everywhere now I know what to look for. Everything was set up fine as far as I’m aware. There were no noticeable problems when setting it all up, throttle range was set up on the esc, end points and trim on the transmitter were calibrated. I can’t see any damage to the antenna wire. I’m going to test that receiver further in my tiny 14th scale car so it can’t cause much damage but I can only assume it’s a faulty receiver.

I’ve installed a Spektrum SR315 receiver in the car now and it all seems to work well. Going to try the failsafe tonight and see if it functions correctly. It’s strange that it would happen to me and my friend within 6 months or so though, especially considering the price of the transmitters and receivers we were using and that both can handle onboard telemetry. The only thing I’m thinking now is that it may have something to do with the gyros. The TQI receiver has TSM and the Spektrum receiver I used had AVC, I think its the SRS4200.

I would do a rebind. Then a Recalibration when this happens. Been there with RTR radios/Rx's.
Spektrum gear is not all that. Sometimes the settings "Drift". Needing a re-bind and recalib.
Always test your signal failsafe on the Bench. Off its wheels.
I also found that turning on the ESC first/radio second, is when this happens 99% of the time.
Radio On first, Off last. The Hard rule to follow. Always.
It only takes that one time and you're SOL.
Almost lost a rig at full speed into a highway near my park. That would have been a disaster. A Car pile up. It luckily flipped on its lid before the road. Highway Drainage ditch saved me. There is no way chasing it when at full speed and out of control. But running towards it with the radio held high, might be lucky enough to recover control. Your only last ditch effort. Weak Radio batteries I feel can also be an issue.

Edit.
Receiver BEC "Brownouts" can also cause loss of control. Usually while running/ bashing. Happens out of nowhere.
But Failsafe should always kick in regardless.
Stray Signal Freq. interference can also be an issue. Mostly with cheaper RTR radio sets from my exper.

 

[ArrmaFreek2022]

Yep
+1

View attachment 248179

I find it not practical that the last command is held hear. I have had this issue before and it seems like it does act on the last command even if that last command is throttle input. I know it says it goes to low throttle (should be brake IMO) but I felt like when I had it happened the car took off not on low throttle but like I had accelerated at the beginning of my run. I was scarred for about 4 speed run sessions after that. Lowering my throttle input, raising my steering input etc. scared that it would happen again. Then there is always that part of you that wonders if your just an idiot and it was all your doing lol

• I have long-range radios setups
• Always fully charged before use.
• I run castle ESCs with the drag brake enabled at 30%. The car will slow down on its own and wait for me

Thank LM, I was gonna search or ask about this at some point soon. I will try it at 30%. To me the toughest part of speed running is the stopping lol. I give myself a pat in the back when I bring the baby back with no incident. But it makes me the most nervous lol

let me be the first to give a giant to anyone who gave you any crap about what was a honest accident that you already felt horrible about. does the idiot(s) who get mad about a runaway car honestly think you did it on purpose? i hope not, it which case it makes zero sense to get mad at you.

I see this has happened to you before. It has to me lol or I've seen it done here. They be like "Well I have kids that got to the park and play near that green thing, you should not be there playing RC" lol. Like STFU dude.

 

[SrC]

Failsafe is usually set at the ESC during a Calibration with the Radio.
However some upgrade radios will even have their own Discreet setting for failsafe settable in the Tx menu. Usually with 2 way addressable higher end radios.
In theory, I feel a "brake" setting is most beneficial until signal is regained. Yet most Failsafes bring the rig to a Neutral./Coast when control is lost. And Steering goes straight.
Years back my older RC radios had Both Steering and Throttle Failsafe. Futaba. I would always set to Full Brake and a Hard Left. (ST servo position) This prevented much carnage best. Rig would halt right at position with a quick "turn in", when the signal is lost.

 

[slick2500]

Failsafe is usually set at the ESC during a Calibration with the Radio.
However some upgrade radios will even have their own Discreet setting for failsafe settable in the Tx menu. Usually with 2 way addressable higher end radios.
In theory, I feel a "brake" setting is most beneficial until signal is regained. Yet most Failsafes bring the rig to a Neutral./Coast when control is lost. And Steering goes straight.
Years back my older RC radios had Both Steering and Throttle Failsafe. Futaba. I would always set to Full Brake and a Hard Left. (ST servo position) This prevented much carnage best. Rig would halt right at position with a quick "turn in", when the signal is lost.

The TTX300 failsafe also does steering iirc.

 

[RC-Dude]

I've changed model in the transmitter once while I had not disconnected the lipo. The car then suddenly started off because I had adjusted the throttle trim position on the other model. For example: Changed from Talion to Kraton in the transmitter without disconnecting the battery in the Talion. And the zero (car does not move) in the Kraton was +26% on the throttle.

So it makes sense to set the throttle channel to zero by calibration and not by trim on all models. So that you have the same trim position on all of them. That would prevent the car from just starting off if you change the model in the transmitter while the battery in the car is still connected.

 

[triplebeastalpha]

Thanks everyone, really supportive and helpful as always, so glad I asked the question, learnt a lot from all of you. I’m eternally grateful that this place exists! Swapped the receiver and re-set all the parameters at the weekend, tested it on a block, wheels up. Failsafe works perfectly now and had no issues driving it on Sunday. Hopefully I can avoid that kind of mishap in future thanks to you guys