What is everyone using on their tires to get them to grip the road better?

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I agree that 6s 1/8 rigs actually run best and optimum on 4s.
9000mah 6s lipos are just too heavy, just to garner a few minutes more run time.
:)
Yep a drag hit could run off a super small pack. No need for huge capacity packs for a sub 1S hit.
 
Nice..... Makes good sense.
Its much like a spin on "Perfect Pass", a launch control??
A new setting I’m hoping to try soon is the trans brake feature on the NB4. Pin the throttle with the trans break button pushed and it won’t move. Let go of the button and you have instant 100% go. Need less? Use the CH Speed Go feature to take some timing out of the hit.
What firmware Rev. you running?

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Recently purchased some Bandido ST tires to run on my granite. Out of the box they did not perform good at all they slid all over the place and acceleration was poor because they would just spin. I’ve been told to spray WD-40 on them which I tried and it helped a little, the best thing that I have found so far is automotive belt conditioner which gives it a tacky feel. However after about five minutes of use it seems to wear off. Has anyone out there found something that works really well?
I have the same tires on my street truck and trying to find a solution myself. Any luck finding anything that works?
the only thing that will truly work for on road is a softer compound rubber, same with off road, the only down fall is they wear out faster,
How can you make them softer? I've seen people soak the tires in motor oil.
 
How do you keep your scale car from spinning out?
You learn to drive better. Or your insurance rates will go up.:LOL:
People using Motor Oil?? WTF?? OMG.
Played with WD40 many years Back. NG.
And WD40 will also break down the CA at the beads. It accelerates rubber dry rot over time. Been there. Its a Kerosene based solvent.
Just keep the tires clean with a wipe down of Simple Green ( 100% strength) is all you can do.
Better Throttle finger prevails. Takes many years and hours of Radio Wheel time to develop this skill. 100+ packs of wheel time easily needed.
It doesn't matter how good you are at wrenching and how much in upgrades you do. Proper Chassis setup is part of the equation no doubt.
But you can't buy Driving Skills at your LHS.:ROFLMAO:
 
So basically everything I said was wrong and other than keeping them clean there's now way to get better grip other than time?
 
So basically everything I said was wrong and other than keeping them clean there's now way to get better grip other than time?
"There is no substitute for hard work." -- Thomas A. Edison
I believe I said something about suspension and gave you a link to a video that explains the basic ins & outs of suspension setup and how that affects a cars traction/behavior. If you want to ignore that and pretend it didn't happen, then yes. All you have is time.
 
"There is no substitute for hard work." -- Thomas A. Edison
I believe I said something about suspension and gave you a link to a video that explains the basic ins & outs of suspension setup and how that affects a cars traction/behavior. If you want to ignore that and pretend it didn't happen, then yes. All you have is time.
+1.
Unfortunately, there is no manual how to drive RC's.
Learn by driving. Lots and Lots of it.
Suspension and chassis setup is very important. Details matter. Right down to the Castor, camber, roll center, Toe etc, right down to the degree.
I use a chassis Cross weight scale. I can get most of my rigs at 50%/50% cross weighted. And F/R weight bias down to 46/54.
Driver ability takes over from there.
Out the box all RTR's are all whacked out. Alignment wise.
 
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+1.
Unfortunately, there is no manual how to drive RC's.
Learn by driving. Lots and Lots of it.
Suspension and chassis setup is very important. Details matter. Right down to the Castor, camber, roll center, Toe etc, right down to the degree.
I use a chassis Cross weight scale. I can get most of my rigs at 50%/50% cross weighted. And F/R weight bias down to 46/54.
Driver ability takes over from there.
Out the box all RTR's are all whacked out. Alignment wise.
Agree ....
The OP is setting up a Granite for street ...... that chassis / suspension will need a lot of work to run the same as a dedicated on-road car.
I am running my Rustler on-road and it is never as solid as the Felony.
Off-road, you can hammer the throttle and steering around, grass and dirt are much more forgiving.
But on-road, throttle control is the key, and very careful steering inputs.
 
^^^ 4x4's will never run like a dedicated Road car. But will run good enough for most. Some will drop $2000. into them before they realize this.:rolleyes:
These are far from Arrma's 1/7 line of Dedicated road cars.
You pay for what you get out the box. And end up paying even more trying to make it what you want it to be.
Just it never will become that..... Sometimes good enough is being more realistic. Then time move on to the better platform.
This is how you grow with this RC hobby.
 
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