Typhon What is going on with ARRMA??

[KnowAir]

Sales would dwindle or running a hobby shop would be the business to be in. You would need a full time team dedicated to building kits...

I would also prefer kits.

Sad but true.. soon we won't even have actual rc's.. we'll all be wearing VR goggles..
Instant gratification is bliss!

 

[Adiabatic]

I agree with ^

I am pretty critical of stuff in general, but I have to say I am impressed with Arrma vehicles for what you get for the price.

With that said, I am addicted to modding and tinkering, i just can't leave things stock. I treat all my RCs like rollers. Even if they come with electronics I remove and sell the stock stuff prior to first run, so maybe that improves reliability a bit? I also spend too much time reading this forum and spot check for issues (loose screws, diff shims etc...) but i have yet to find one of those common issues on my rigs.

In fact, the only issues i have had on an RC (that weren't caused by me smashing into something) were a burned out stock servo and a tire that came unglued and shredded on the first run and both of those were on my X-maxx, so go Arrma?

I suspect our type of experience is the more common one, but you don't read about it as often because people are less likely to come online and rave about how their R/C didn't have problems out of the box - the default expectation - than to rant about the problems they encounter. To use a bit of statistics terms, it skews our perception of the distribution and we end up thinking that outlier negative experiences are actually modal experiences. The true modal experience is probably the guy who takes the truck out of the box and throws in some batteries without checking anything over, drives it without any serious issues, crashes and breaks a part here and there, and doesn't even know this forum exists.

 

[KnowAir]

Sad but true.. soon we won't even have actual rc's.. we'll all be wearing VR goggles..
Instant gratification is bliss!

FWIW, I went through my mojave EXB before running and I didn't find any issues..

I suspect our type of experience is the more common one, but you don't read about it as often because people are less likely to come online and rave about how their R/C didn't have problems out of the box - the default expectation - than to rant about the problems they encounter. To use a bit of statistics terms, it skews our perception of the distribution and we end up thinking that outlier negative experiences are actually modal experiences. The true modal experience is probably the guy who takes the truck out of the box and throws in some batteries without checking anything over, drives it without any serious issues, crashes and breaks a part here and there, and doesn't even know this forum exists.

Totally agreed. Peeps generally only speak out of bad opinions/experiences.

 

[N.Mango]

It can be a pain to some and cant blame anyone for expecting quality for what they pay a lot of money for, but if you're in this deep of the hobby that you're buying Arrma vehicles then wrenching it and making sure everything is as good as can be should be at the very least somewhat fun. I know it is for me. imho

 

[slick2500]

Back when.. kits were the ONLY way to get a hobby grade rc.. I miss those days!!
Not to detract from what's on the market today, as Arrma makes a great rig, but it would be even better in kit form IMO.

Jason says it costs too much to make kits so they won't make them.......................

 

[hobo]

when I got my first arrma outcast christmas 2016 I run that thing all the time through mud water really ruff car parks had a blast with it. and that was straight out of the box had no problems with it at all thats what got me hooked on arrma. the QC now has got alot worse. the arrma talion exb I got was terrible out the box

 

[KnowAir]

Jason says it costs too much to make kits so they won't make them.......................

Sounds crazy.. no matter, we always end up taking them apart and putting back together anyway,lol.
My first Arrma, but won't be my last

 

[Brandon]

I am a kit builder at heart. So I always rebuilt any RTR's out the box. I enjoy building first and foremost.
My first Arrma an OC6s was a mess. I learned real quick about RTR's.
6 Arrma 6s rigs later, I take my time rebuilding most by sub assembly. Yeah it may take me a week or more to get bashing. But there are no short cuts here. Most new to this stuff, just want to bash. Immediate gratitification out the box is what people want. Like a kid with a new toy. Opens it, throws the batteries in, tosses the manual to the side with the box and goes bashing like all the YTubers do.
These are Hobby grade rigs and wrenching is all part of the the hobby. Get familiar with your rig out the box. Start wrenching right away with all the Proper tools in hand. Don't wait til it breaks to consider tools, shock and diff oils etc., that you will need on hand. You will be doing it anyway. Start learning right out the box. Less frustration in the long term.

And it’s cleaner.….the first time.

 

[fastrak5150]

^^^ That's for show dammit. Fooled you again.
It's there for us to see.
Means nothing at the factory. Except another job position for a young laborer to place the QC sticker there. hundereds by the second. These rigs are assembled super fast. State run factories. Poor unskilled labor conditions.
And Amazon workers think they have it bad.

unfortunately this too true.

is your profile pic an ap1 s2k?

AP2

don't buy cars built on a Friday....even real ones. (everyone is in a rush to get home and does sloppy work) kidding

That is why there is a term "Tuesday built" LOL

 

[Arrma15T68]

I am a kit builder at heart. So I always rebuilt any RTR's out the box. I enjoy building first and foremost.
My first Arrma an OC6s was a mess. I learned real quick about RTR's.
6 Arrma 6s rigs later, I take my time rebuilding most by sub assembly. Yeah it may take me a week or more to get bashing. But there are no short cuts here. Most new to this stuff, just want to bash. Immediate gratitification out the box is what people want. Like a kid with a new toy. Opens it, throws the batteries in, tosses the manual to the side with the box and goes bashing like all the YTubers do.
These are Hobby grade rigs and wrenching is all part of the the hobby. Get familiar with your rig out the box. Start wrenching right away with all the Proper tools in hand. Don't wait til it breaks to consider tools, shock and diff oils etc., that you will need on hand. You will be doing it anyway. Start learning right out the box. Less frustration in the long term.

Well put my friend !

 

[marucci87]

My Talion EXB was a nightmare so much was wrong I don’t even want to relive that nightmare. My Outcast 8s was almost perfect…I think one diff was 1/4 filled other then the over kill of thread locker polar opposite of the Talion with none used. I will be pulling every nut, bolt, and screw out of my Infraction when I get it…there’s nothing like peace of mind.

 

[SrC]

I have had the opposite experience of some people in this thread. Out of a dozen or so RTR R/Cs I have never encountered a QC issue more severe than excessive use of threadlocker. I do break them down to check everything out but from a pragmatic perspective this has been largely a waste of time. I'm generally impressed by how well the factory workers are able to put them together when they're obviously rushing to meet quotas.

I still recommend rebuilding them out of the box if you have the skills and experience to do it properly, and there are plenty of horror stories out there that should motivate you to do so.

I guaranty for most, just not all of us , that if you merely install the lipo and run it out the box, It will fail very much sooner than later.
All my kit builds are always durable when I complete them. I find rebuilding a NSRTR, makes it run for so much longer between rebuilds.
Many are not familiar with Diffs in the beginning. Some of us don't even know what they are yet. Just that if you check them before running them. You will find they are not full of diff oil and/or shimmed properly 99% of the time. They will be the first to fail among the OE servos very early on. These are the most complained about issues here on AF by newcomers to the hobby/ Arrma products when new out the box.. Extremely Fast production with little QC makes for a low price point which is great! A plus.
So if you slowly rebuild your RTR, out the box, treat it like a KIT, QC for the most part is on you. All, as you learn the wrenching aspect up front in the beginning. The hobby is about wrenching as much as it is about running them. Get familiar with the wrenching part first. Don't be afraid you will break something. Or get lost in the process. There is no way around not wrenching anyway, the more you bash and learn your rig. Unless you want to $spend$ at a LHS to repair, clean, and upgrade your rig all the time. And there are many out there that do just this. I don't consider them hobbyists. They just want to drive a toy. And pay someone else to fix them. Just me.
The resources are all here.

 

[RC-Dude]

The other thing is: Change your bearings on a regular basis. Especially if you hit a puddle now and then. Check if the bearings on the differentials are turning properly. Take out all wheel bearings within two hours if you drive through a puddle. You will find water between the two wheel bearings.
Check the front motor bearing (pinion side) now and then.

Check if all wheel hexes run freely . Had the wheel hex press against the bearing (preventing the outer bearing from turning properly) on a new Typhon 6s and new Mojave. Had to file the wheel hex down.

I buy lots of bearings way before I use them. Just use some industrial vendor. Lots cheaper.
If your runtime is less than normal it's probably some locked bearing. The bearing effectively turns into a socket that way and creates a lot of resistance.

 

[Jimbobjr]

My Kraton v3 ran for 6months and I didn’t do a damm thing to it but spray it with the hose. My newer Arrmas have been a mess.

 

[marucci87]

The other thing is: Change your bearings on a regular basis. Especially if you hit a puddle now and then. Check if the bearings on the differentials are turning properly. Take out all wheel bearings within two hours if you drive through a puddle. You will find water between the two wheel bearings.
Check the front motor bearing (pinion side) now and then.

Check if all wheel hexes run freely . Had the wheel hex press against the bearing (preventing the outer bearing from turning properly) on a new Typhon 6s and new Mojave. Had to file the wheel hex down.

I buy lots of bearings way before I use them. Just use some industrial vendor. Lots cheaper.
If your runtime is less than normal it's probably some locked bearing. The bearing effectively turns into a socket that way and creates a lot of resistance.

I put my bearings every 10-20 runs (depending what kind of surface I’m in) into a sonic cleaner with the seals off and then re oil them with 3in1 oil I have had one bearing fail since.

 

[RC-Dude]

Sonic cleaner - like that. Was just wondering how to properly clean my bearings instead of replacing them. Different oils did not do the trick, neither WD40. Was just thinking about using water and then WD40. Your post is perfect!

 

[BigStatiK]

I’d buy Arrmas in kit form for like $150 less.

 

[marucci87]

Sonic cleaner - like that. Was just wondering how to properly clean my bearings instead of replacing them. Different oils did not do the trick, neither WD40. Was just thinking about using water and then WD40. Your post is perfect!

The link is the one I personally use. I put Mean Green straight in with the heater on. Don’t use purple power it will strip anodized parts. I clean everything in there, axel parts, shafts, diffs and spider gears, anything metal great investment for this hobby.

https://www.amazon.com/Ultrasonic-C...288&sprefix=sonic+cleaner,aps,135&sr=8-3&th=1

 

[joshludden]

^^^
These rigs are NSRTR. (Not So Ready to Run) As you have learned. We all been through this.
Don't expect most Brand RTR's to be fine out the box. Need to spend much time on a new RTR rig, going over everything first. All screws etc. Check the diffs for fluid in them. Many are dry or low on oil. You are not alone. Essentially, expect to rebuild it out the box. You may uncover many surprises. Preventing potential failures.
Electrics are a mixed bag also. The Arrma 2 year warranty covers you there. I think HH understands there is very little QC with their products. It allows them to keep a competitive price point edge in the RC surface market.
You also have to consider where, how and by whom, is actually building these Arrma products unfortunately. Somewhere In there, is your answer.
I figured it out. Some things we have no control over. Accept that it is what it is.

I'm also new to the hobby & would like to know what kind of diff oil is factory installed in the v5 typhon 6s. Recommendations on alternatives? Thanks in advance for any help

 

[slick2500]

I'm also new to the hobby & would like to know what kind of diff oil is factory installed in the v5 typhon 6s. Recommendations on alternatives? Thanks in advance for any help

It says in your manual starting on page 19

Most guys run 50 in front 500 in the middle and 50 in the rear for bashing.