Granite What is most durable out of the box granite v3 blx or k6s v5?

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Granite What is most durable out of the box granite v3 blx or k6s v5?

Freelander

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What's the deal with the kraton rear diff exploding complaints. V5 or an earlier version? Known problem with 1/8 exb? What is the deal. I keep seeing bad diff stories and theories about shims and stuff.
 

Jimbobjr

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What's the deal with the kraton rear diff exploding complaints. V5 or an earlier version? Known problem with 1/8 exb? What is the deal. I keep seeing bad diff stories and theories about shims and stuff.
The first exb diffs were a disaster and now are supposed to be better. theres a shim kit to replace all the lsd plates and make it open. the best part of the exb diffs are the ring and input gears being heavier.
@BashingBrian made a thread about fixing them and seems he and others have used his method and have made them very solid. definitely not as many new threads about them so perhaps the new exbs are good to go but a while back it was carnage.
the rtr difs are pretty good now with that smallish ring and input gear being a weak point.
 

Hotwheel85

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We went with the kraton 6s :)
Just took it for a blast and this rig is epic! Thons of power and handle very great. I must read up on the k6s forum and see recommendations out of the box.
Only had issue with the esc fan not spinning but after connect it in and out it working.

Quick diff oil question, we left for vacation and i only have 100k 500k and 20mill diff oil with me.

Readed that 500k in center should be the best way to go?
Can i use 100k in front and rear? What is recomended? It kinda handle great out of the box but i want like 20% more power at rear.

In the box it was shims included, should i mount them on the diffs? Never shimmed a diff before, so Wonder how i put them on correctly, building them up until the gears have less Play?

Kinda want to open them up and see if they are close to empty, and same time get more power from front over to rear wheels :)
 
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Jon NC RC

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We went with the kraton 6s :)
Just took it for a blast and this rig is epic! Thons of power and handle very great. I must read up on the k6s forum and see recommendations out of the box.
Only had issue with the esc fan not spinning but after connect it in and out it working.

Quick diff oil question, we left for vacation and i only have 100k 500k and 20mill diff oil with me.

Readed that 500k in center should be the best way to go?
Can i use 100k in front and rear? What is recomended? It kinda handle great out of the box but i want like 20% more power at rear.

In the box it was shims included, should i mount them on the diffs? Never shimmed a diff before, so Wonder how i put them on correctly, building them up until the gears have less Play?

Kinda want to open them up and see if they are close to empty, and same time get more power from front over to rear wheels :)
I am sure you will like it. There is several good choices for videos about differential maintenance on YouTube and if you can find one by bashing Brian ( see above entry) or somebody that's on the know from this forum.... that's a double bonus. While it does happen, differentials being dry or in dire need of extra fluid is somewhat rare. The owner's manual has the factory specs on differential fluid levels.

You were in a good position either way when when you went to go get the rig from The hobby store. You would not have been a loser going either direction...... I am sure though that you both will definitely appreciate the rig you got!
 
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Great choice, if you wish you could just change the fluid in the center to 500k and leave the front and rear until you’re home from vacation. I use 50 in the front, 500k middle and 35 in the rear. Idk what the put in the center from the factory but it’s too thin for 6s power.
The shims go in between the bearing and bulkhead/diff housing (not inside the diff..)pushing the diff ring gear (front/rear) tighter to the input gear. When you remove the diff covers see if you can move the diff left and right. If you can’t you ok if you can you might want to place another shim on the ring side bearing. Be careful not to make it too tight. If the gears feel notchy it’s too tight.
 

Hotwheel85

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Great choice, if you wish you could just change the fluid in the center to 500k and leave the front and rear until you’re home from vacation. I use 50 in the front, 500k middle and 35 in the rear. Idk what the put in the center from the factory but it’s too thin for 6s power.
The shims go in between the bearing and bulkhead/diff housing (not inside the diff..)pushing the diff ring gear (front/rear) tighter to the input gear. When you remove the diff covers see if you can move the diff left and right. If you can’t you ok if you can you might want to place another shim on the ring side bearing. Be careful not to make it too tight. If the gears feel notchy it’s too tight.
Thanks alot for great advice. Yes the center feel too thin. Just opened it up and i was surprised it was full! Front and rear diff screis soaked in loctite i guess 😅

It is a pleasure to work on this truck, i showed my kid what this animal is capable off, on 100% and he just laughing and he got kinda shocked too lol!

75% is perfect on 6s with stock gearing, i see that it’s not only top speed that is tuned down but the power too. With punch level 4 and 75% i can imagine he wont eat driveshafts anymore like he did with traxxas, what punch level is recomended? Want to keep it safe but same time it could having more punch on 75%
 

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Thanks alot for great advice. Yes the center feel too thin. Just opened it up and i was surprised it was full! Front and rear diff screis soaked in loctite i guess 😅

It is a pleasure to work on this truck, i showed my kid what this animal is capable off, on 100% and he just laughing and he got kinda shocked too lol!

75% is perfect on 6s with stock gearing, i see that it’s not only top speed that is tuned down but the power too. With punch level 4 and 75% i can imagine he wont eat driveshafts anymore like he did with traxxas, what punch level is recomended? Want to keep it safe but same time it could having more punch on 75%
Punch is all dependent on driving habits. If your son likes to mash the trigger, then keep the punch down so he doesn't cause too much shock to the drivetrain. If level 4 feels good to you or him, just keep it there and bash on :)
 

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I own a Granite 3s. It’s a few months old. Needs a new ESC. The servo doesn’t work in grass at high speeds (on 2s).
 

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Were you breaking stock Maxx driveshafts or did you just want to upgrade?
I have the traxxas maxx (well, it’s my sons) with their wide maxx kit. It came with the upgraded (longer) driveshafts. My son and I have been beating the snot out of it with outcast 4s wheels on her and not a problem to speak off. Thing is a tank. Bounces off everything and keeps going.
 

P-Dub

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@20% off k6s rtr all day long. It does not need anything but a battery out of the box. Look at all the post on the 6s forms, the newest k6s has less durability problems than ever. Everybody here including me spent a lot of unnecessary money on their rigs and want others to do the same. Get the k6s and if something breaks just fix it. If you bent the chassis bent it back. They’re only 23$ at Jennys, same with towers stock ones are very cheap. You guys will have a blast together with you running the k8s and your boy the k6s...
Totally agree i purchased k6 about a year ago and dumped over $1,000 into it easy. I ended up getting rid of it. Well i went and bought a kronos from team corally, biggest mistake of my life. That thing was total garbage i was jumping off a 2ft ramp and both front hubs broke and bent my driveline. They have zero upgrades for it. Needless to say i no longer have the kronos.So i went and bought a k6 2 days ago and went and bashed the hell out of it. Not one thing broke. So yes they are definitely much stronger out of the box now. So glad to be back in the arma family.
 
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RC-Dude

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Front 50k, center 200k, rear 20k. Spins nicely on loose sand going towards drifting. And is thick enough to not make the front tires baloon like crazy.

You need a higher punch if you want to jump - so you can correct in the air.
 

dure0016

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I have the traxxas maxx (well, it’s my sons) with their wide maxx kit. It came with the upgraded (longer) driveshafts. My son and I have been beating the snot out of it with outcast 4s wheels on her and not a problem to speak off. Thing is a tank. Bounces off everything and keeps going.
Glad to hear. I recently bought one and have the wide kit. Did the outcast 4S wheels fit with no modifications? I read somewhere that they rub since the offset is small.
 

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Glad to hear. I recently bought one and have the wide kit. Did the outcast 4S wheels fit with no modifications? I read somewhere that they rub since the offset is small.
They will hit very slightly... so I dialed back the end points... i guess on a hard hit the servo saver will allow it to still hit but I haven’t seen any signs since...
 

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I have both , Obviously the Granite is Lighter and plastic chassis makes it a little more durable ,
Standard things are Arms that most likley break,
The kraton is big heavy the metal chassis will bend, some instances you may be able to straighten it. But again the Arms are going to get it first. And it’ll cost you , but in most cases the Granite takes a good beating .
 

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Quick diff oil question, we left for vacation and i only have 100k 500k and 20mill diff oil with me.
Thicker fluids put more stress on the diffs if you get uneven (1 wheel) landings as the thicker fluid means it tries to reduce the speed of the other wheels more as well as the one that hit the ground - all the force to do that transfers through the diff.
Diffs are a personal choice, my recommendation is drive it, get used to it, work out what you want to change about the handling then work out the best way to effect that change. My problems with snapped pins, stripped teeth all started when I decided I wanted to go thicker fluids. Now I run EXB diffs with stock fluids.
 

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Thicker fluids put more stress on the diffs if you get uneven (1 wheel) landings as the thicker fluid means it tries to reduce the speed of the other wheels more as well as the one that hit the ground - all the force to do that transfers through the diff.
Diffs are a personal choice, my recommendation is drive it, get used to it, work out what you want to change about the handling then work out the best way to effect that change. My problems with snapped pins, stripped teeth all started when I decided I wanted to go thicker fluids. Now I run EXB diffs with stock fluids.

I agree 100%. Stock fluids works very well.
 

Hotwheel85

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Thicker fluids put more stress on the diffs if you get uneven (1 wheel) landings as the thicker fluid means it tries to reduce the speed of the other wheels more as well as the one that hit the ground - all the force to do that transfers through the diff.
Diffs are a personal choice, my recommendation is drive it, get used to it, work out what you want to change about the handling then work out the best way to effect that change. My problems with snapped pins, stripped teeth all started when I decided I wanted to go thicker fluids. Now I run EXB diffs with stock fluids.
Interesting, didnt knew that.
So then i leave the front and rear diff stock, but if i go from 100k to 200k in center diff, would that cause more stress to both front and rear?
My personal opinion is that the front tires baloon too much and with 6s i expect it to wheelie easily on command also in higher speed :)

What numbers did you had on the oils when you started getting issuess with the driveline?
 
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