What is the best way to set an ESC on a chassis for bashing?

[parcou]

I could be overthinking this...

Have an HW Max8 G2 due to spacing, it has to go on the Lasernut chassis, and the ESC mount will need to be removed. HW provides a 3M tape, but it is thin. Do I need something thicker since it is on the chassis to take some of the shock and bumps from bashing with the ESC on the chassis?

If yes, what thicker double-stick adhesive can I purchase?

Thx

 

[real_name_hidden]

I could be overthinking this...

Have an HW Max8 G2 due to spacing, it has to go on the Lasernut chassis, and the ESC mount will need to be removed. HW provides a 3M tape, but it is thin. Do I need something thicker since it is on the chassis to take some of the shock and bumps from bashing with the ESC on the chassis?

If yes, what thicker double-stick adhesive can I purchase?

Thx

I personally prefer 3M extra grip…
But I’m becoming a fan of gorilla double tape. I’ve cracked 3d printed gps cases pulling it out

 

[BashingBrian]

I bolt all of mine down if I can, the HW's have holes on their bottom that can be screwed into with short bolts.
Don't have any experience with the G2 though myself
I've never had any issues with bashing and having them bolted down, some of mine I have used thick double sided tape and bolts.

 

[parcou]

I personally prefer 3M extra grip…
But I’m becoming a fan of gorilla double tape. I’ve cracked 3d printed gps cases pulling it out

Thx for the info...all this is helpful

I bolt all of mine down if I can, the HW's have holes on their bottom that can be screwed into with short bolts.
Don't have any experience with the G2 though myself
I've never had any issues with bashing and having them bolted down, some of mine I have used thick double sided tape and bolts.

Not a bad idea. This is an aluminum chassis I don't want to drill into the chassis. Plus I have no way to create the countersink holes in the chassis. Good feedback and thx!

 

[hobo]

never had any luck with double sided tape I always stick my esc's down with shoegoo but thats on to the arrma esc mount not had one come loose yet. would not stick it to the chassis though would take too much hammer

 

[Diem Turner]

Thx for the info...all this is helpful

Not a bad idea. This is an aluminum chassis I don't want to drill into the chassis. Plus I have no way to create the countersink holes in the chassis. Good feedback and thx!

You don't need a countersink to countersink. Yes, that sounds stupid. But hear me out. If you have a drill bit set, you have everything you need. I've done this more times than I can count. Drill the hole for the screw as per usual. Grab some calipers and measure the width of the screw head. Grab that drill bit and countersink the hole. I tend to use high speed with really low pressure to slowly remove material and, as it gets a bit deeper, hold the drill a bit slanted and rotate to assist in making the perimeter round. It's not as perfect as the correct countersink, but it's close enough. Countersunk holes usually tend to be where you don't see them anyways so minor imperfections like this are perfectly acceptable in my book. Try it on a scrap piece of aluminum if you don't trust me. (I wouldn't...just sayin'). Nah man, it works really well.

 

[morrjr71]

Gorilla Tough and Clear double-sided tape works great: I use the 15lb for both ESCs and receivers. If you need to remove the part, the tape comes away clean without leaving part of the tape or the adhesive on the parts. You can go to the black heavy duty 30lb mounting tape if you think you might need it, but I've never had an issue with the 15lb.

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-6065016-6065001-2-Mounting-Double-Sided/dp/B01MG65C24/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2C4BNSQVCMMZ7&keywords=gorilla+double+sided+tape&qid=1675338730&sprefix=gorilla+double+sided+tape,aps,140&sr=8-10

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Heavy-Double-Mounting-Inches/dp/B01M7VCYFA/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2C4BNSQVCMMZ7&keywords=gorilla+double+sided+tape&qid=1675338921&sprefix=gorilla+double+sided+tape,aps,140&sr=8-7

 

[KnowAir]

I usually try and use the factory mount if feasible, if not, I have drilled holes through chassis as well as even plexiglass to make one.
Recently I used the Gorilla brand double sided tape to mount a max6 in the stock location of my xmaxx. Holding up really well too.
My brother used the Gorilla tape to mount a max6 in an ERevo 2.0, we used a few layers to get clear of some raised ribs on the chassis, so far, it's been good. I would like to add a cable tie on the revo though, just in case..
I hear VHB tape has some tenacious grip, maybe try that? Just layer it up to achieve the thickness desired.

 

[parcou]

You don't need a countersink to countersink. Yes, that sounds stupid. But hear me out. If you have a drill bit set, you have everything you need. I've done this more times than I can count. Drill the hole for the screw as per usual. Grab some calipers and measure the width of the screw head. Grab that drill bit and countersink the hole. I tend to use high speed with really low pressure to slowly remove material and, as it gets a bit deeper, hold the drill a bit slanted and rotate to assist in making the perimeter round. It's not as perfect as the correct countersink, but it's close enough. Countersunk holes usually tend to be where you don't see them anyways so minor imperfections like this are perfectly acceptable in my book. Try it on a scrap piece of aluminum if you don't trust me. (I wouldn't...just sayin'). Nah man, it works really well.

Thanks

Gave it a try thanks for the push. I found a tool that I did not know I had which made the work a bit easier. I also modified the plate that came with the Max8 G2 so it will not sit on the chassis directly. Using their plate I modified I drilled the correct holes.

 

[Diem Turner]

Thanks

Gave it a try thanks for the push. I found a tool that I did not know I had which made the work a bit easier. I also modified the plate that came with the Max8 G2 so it will not sit on the chassis directly. Using their plate I modified I drilled the correct holes.

View attachment 275178 View attachment 275179

Right on brother! Oh man, I love stepped drills. You can do so many things with them that just can't be done with spiral bits. If you ever need to drill holes in sheet plastic of any kind, a stepped drill is your best friend. I also use them to drill the body post holes in my bodies, the 8mm step fits perfectly and makes short work of even the thickest Lexan®. Glad you decided to give it a go. I'm all about low tech solutions to high tech problems (not that this is particularly high tech, but I think you know what I mean). I love off-label use of tools and materials and sometimes the tool for the job is right in front of us.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

I have used gorilla tape to mount an ESC before, but never on a hard core basher. It always seemed to hold up on my other bashers though, never came loose. That stuff sticks pretty well.

One question: does the esc HAVE to be mounted directly on the chassis? Is there no stock ESC mount or tray that you could potentially modify?

 

[KnowAir]

I have an old countersink bit I use, no idea where I got it, or whether it's intended for wood or? Works a treat for aluminum though. I like @Diem Turner drill bit method too! Everyone likely has a drill index available, or at least should. Mine looks something like this..

 

[parcou]

One question: does the esc HAVE to be mounted directly on the chassis? Is there no stock ESC mount or tray that you could potentially modify?

It came with a plate for the stock Firma 130A. The HW Max8 G2 is bigger, but I was able to customize a plate and not put it on the chassis. I have no rigs with the ESC directly on the chassis so when I posted this, I was having reservations about doing that anyway.

Thx for the post!