Big Rock What is wrong with Arrma-rc.com?

[jondilly1974]

Whatever happened it's back up again, I needed the part numbers for the 4s rear driveshafts for my big rock. My thought is all the drivetrain is Identical, down to the same diffs. So I broke a 3s halfshaft, the 4s should be tougher, and looks identical on the ends, so should practically swap in other than maybe a length trim. thanks for the answers,

They are not the same and will not work.

 

[crazyjr]

They are not the same and will not work.

Everything about them looks identical, the axles are splined the same (different threaded end for the 14 or 17 MM hex) the ends look identical. at most a cut for length will be all that is necessary. The 4s and 3s models are virtually identical short of the suspensions and the ends where the wheels mount. Now if you are talking about the CVD's, yes very different completely different mounting solution, but the stock halfshafts use the same splined ends as the 3s, but look a little beefier

 

[jondilly1974]

Everything about them looks identical, the axles are splined the same (different threaded end for the 14 or 17 MM hex) the ends look identical. at most a cut for length will be all that is necessary. The 4s and 3s models are virtually identical short of the suspensions and the ends where the wheels mount. Now if you are talking about the CVD's, yes very different completely different mounting solution, but the stock halfshafts use the same splined ends as the 3s, but look a little beefier

Everything outside the chassis is unique. You can take that advice or learn the hard way. I’ve owned both.

 

[crazyjr]

They have 4s stuff in stock???

I just needed the part number, I can get them on Amazon or Ebay if need be

 

[*420+3RC*]

I thought there was a thread just kinda recent that someone built driveshafts but it took half of this half of that trim cut length. But I can't remember if it worked out for him

I thought there was a thread just kinda recent that someone built driveshafts but it took half of this half of that trim cut length. But I can't remember if it worked out for him

About what @jondilly1974 are talking about

 

[crazyjr]

I thought there was a thread just kinda recent that someone built driveshafts but it took half of this half of that trim cut length. But I can't remember if it worked out for him

There was a guythat did this with 3s and 4s CVD'sand yes the splines lined up perfectly. What i'm planning to do is use the Outcast or Kraton 4s halfshafts in place of the 3s halfshafts in my Big Rock V3 3s. BTW worst come to worse, and the wheel won't hook up, the shafts look like they can be cross used

 

[*420+3RC*]

There was a guythat did this with 3s and 4s CVD'sand yes the splines lined up perfectly. What i'm planning to do is use the Outcast or Kraton 4s halfshafts in place of the 3s halfshafts in my Big Rock V3 3s. BTW worst come to worse, and the wheel won't hook up, the shafts look like they can be cross used

Good luck to you sir. No offense I just have no idea myself but I know that @jondilly1974 knows his stuff. But I do hope it works to give another option

 

[crazyjr]

Everything outside the chassis is unique. You can take that advice or learn the hard way. I’ve owned both.

I have looked over the exploded views of both the Kraton and the BR V3, other than different PN the chassis's are identical, the diffs are the identical (same part number), the center drive shaft is identical (same part number), and even the shock towers are same part number. Looking at the halfshafts, there is no difference in the splining on the ends, both ends are identical, also the axles appear to be the same spline, just slightly different due to the 4s using the 17 MM hex with an M4 washered nut, where the 3s uses the 14 MM hex with an M3 nut. other than length there is no difference in the halfshafts, other than looking a little bulkier and stronger.

I do appreciate your advice and will admit I'm wrong, if you are right. But I wouldn't consider this if I didn't look at everything, Even the bearing the halfshafts lock into on the wheel side is the same (12x18x4mm) so the shaft will actually fit

Good luck to you sir. No offense I just have no idea myself but I know that @jondilly1974 knows his stuff. But I do hope it works to give another option

If i were doing the CVD's? Yes I'd say it won't fit, due to the CVD's having an entirely different mount system (More similar to a 1/8 buggy). But the stockers have a similar mount to the 3s and the splines look the same, so should fit as far as actually mounting. There is about 2" difference between the track widths of the trucks, but a little clip would help on that

 

[jondilly1974]

I have looked over the exploded views of both the Kraton and the BR V3, other than different PN the chassis's are identical, the diffs are the identical (same part number), the center drive shaft is identical (same part number), and even the shock towers are same part number. Looking at the halfshafts, there is no difference in the splining on the ends, both ends are identical, also the axles appear to be the same spline, just slightly different due to the 4s using the 17 MM hex with an M4 washered nut, where the 3s uses the 14 MM hex with an M3 nut. other than length there is no difference in the halfshafts, other than looking a little bulkier and stronger.

I do appreciate your advice and will admit I'm wrong, if you are right. But I wouldn't consider this if I didn't look at everything, Even the bearing the halfshafts lock into on the wheel side is the same (12x18x4mm) so the shaft will actually fit

If i were doing the CVD's? Yes I'd say it won't fit, due to the CVD's having an entirely different mount system (More similar to a 1/8 buggy). But the stockers have a similar mount to the 3s and the splines look the same, so should fit as far as actually mounting. There is about 2" difference between the track widths of the trucks, but a little clip would help on that

Here is a list of what is different and not compatible:

Arms
Hubs
Caster blocks
Bearings (some)
Links
Driveshafts
Axle stubs
Hexes
Pins
Nuts
Shocks (length)

Like I said, everything outside the chassis is different, starting with the arms, links, and shocks and everything that attaches to them.

 

[crazyjr]

Here is a list of what is different and not compatible:

Arms
Hubs
Caster blocks
Bearings (some)
Links
Driveshafts
Axle stubs
Hexes
Pins
Nuts
Shocks (length)

Like I said, everything outside the chassis is different, starting with the arms, links, and shocks and everything that attaches to them.

Actually the outer hinge pins are different, the inner are the same length and part number. the thought actually crossed my mind to swap the suspensions to be honest. Might still do that. You are right, the stub axles are different, but the end that counts (where the driveshaft locks in), is identical, same spline count

 

[jondilly1974]

Actually the outer hinge pins are different, the inner are the same length and part number. the thought actually crossed my mind to swap the suspensions to be honest. Might still do that. You are right, the stub axles are different, but the end that counts (where the driveshaft locks in), is identical, same spline count

Do you mean at the diff output? Yes they use the same diffs.

 

[crazyjr]

Do you mean at the diff output? Yes they use the same diffs.

I mean the stub axles, they have the same splines as the diffs, both ends are identical on both 3s and 4s

 

[jondilly1974]

I mean the stub axles, they have the same splines as the diffs, both ends are identical on both 3s and 4s

Different lengths. Different diameter of outer stub

 

[mrbelloso]

Is this what you are looking for:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/just-made-a-long-cvd-for-granite-with-typhon-rpm-arms.35882/

 

[rook13pdx]

Maybe Arrma is going Out of Business. Always a possibility. Nothing is forever.

This just scared the piss outta dudes. Like crying fire in a theater, can’t just do that!

 

[crazyjr]

Just letting everyone know the results, finally got the 4s stock halfshafts.
They are kind of strange, they look identical except longer. They even slot into the 3s shafts, but they feel slightly better, I'm thinking maybe a slightly better quality plastic, possibly stiffer maybe IDK? The stub axle end fits perfectly (splines) and it fits into the 3s (14mm based) hub perfectly as well. I see no clearance issues anywhere. By the looks of it I just have to cut between 1/2" to 5/8" off the ends and it'll fit with 0 issues. Once i get them in and the rain stops, I'll test them and see if this is a true cheap upgrade for the 3s line. The biggest upside is, if you need a shaft and all you can find is the 4s, you can get them cut the piece you need down to fit if needed. The difference is only about $3.00 depending on your area and markup at your store

I'll post again when I determine if they are better or just more of the same. For those who are wondering, I am on a budget (hence why it took so long to get them), so I used this as a potential upgrade ($22.00 Vs $45.00 for CVD's) as well as a stop gap, till I could afford CVD's towards the end of the year

 

[crazyjr]

Small update, despite someone here saying this would not fit due to size, they fit (spline wise and anywhere where they could possibly rub) perfectly. I did have to cut about an inch off from the main shaft bodies, they are currently about 1/8" longer than shock ones slid fully together. Rather have them a little longer and have to pull the shocks for more room (range), than not enough and them falling off constantly. I used the stock shafts (side by side) as a guide to the length I needed cut.

As I said before, this material feels different from the stock halfshafts, tapping on it with a screwdriver also makes a slightly higher pitched tone,. Think tapping a wall vs tapping a drum, the wall is more solid so makes a higher pitch tap, where the drum is more compliant and it's tone is a little lower. I can also feel the difference with a fingernail, stockers feel softer where the 4s ones feel harder. This might actually be a budget hopup, just waiting on rain to stop so i can try it

 

[crazyjr]

Second and last update to the 4s axles. they are working perfectly, one pack through, No breaking, no rubbing or clearance issues. Of course I wasn't expecting them to break this fast, it took 3 months for me to break the stockers. But time will tell if they are truly a solid budget hopup

Like I said, this will be the last time I update this thread, we've strayed from the original purpose (Arrma site down). If I mention them anymore, it'll probably be in a hopup thread, I'm planning later this year. I'll start with some budget stuff, like driveshafts, maybe tires etc. and eventually go into a 6s buildup using a castle mamba esc. But for right now I don't regret trying this and thanks for the input you guys gave. When I go 6s, I will be looking at Arrma CVD axles. But for now, the 4s half shafts are looking like a cheap stock hopup. If you are willing to do a little more than disassemble and reassemble

 

[crazyjr]

Final update, on these shafts. As said before I tried the 4s stock replacements, from the Outcast and Kraton 4s models. they fit perfectly and also broke faster than the original 3s ones did. I'm still trying to understand that one, they were slightly thicker and felt like better plastic, but broke in two runs, as opposed to nearly 3 months of running the stockers did. So I guess CVD's are in fact the way to go, also means my truck is down till I can get the $44.00 CVD's from arrma. Stock setup stock settings and broke two driveshafts (same corner BTW), I'm starting to think "Arrma tough" is more a joke than a badge of honor. I've had better luck, with a Traxxas Rustler with the old plastic mid gear. You guys that have been around for a while know exactly what I'm talking about.

I didn't want to make this post, but here I am, man of my word. I said if it failed in any way, i'd tell you. I'm telling you DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON THE 4S STUFF, it's as weak as the 3s stuff. I may pick up a new set of 3s ones, just to tide me over till end of the year, but I'll be burning slipper clutch to keep it together.

Or maybe just save up for a proper traxxas, they are expensive, but never EVER had a driveshaft issue, even stock. I put a turn and a half on a set of Emaxx driveshafts and they never once popped. The day I swapped them for Revo driveshafts (bogger and stronger, THEY WERE STILL WORKING.

All i know right now is that Arrma Tough feels more like a Joke than anything complimentary

 

[CameronCodes]

They are probably about to release a 24S 16th scale Bruhgie.

...
a what now...