Big Rock What is wrong with Arrma-rc.com?

[slick2500]

Final update, on these shafts. As said before I tried the 4s stock replacements, from the Outcast and Kraton 4s models. they fit perfectly and also broke faster than the original 3s ones did. I'm still trying to understand that one, they were slightly thicker and felt like better plastic, but broke in two runs, as opposed to nearly 3 months of running the stockers did. So I guess CVD's are in fact the way to go, also means my truck is down till I can get the $44.00 CVD's from arrma. Stock setup stock settings and broke two driveshafts (same corner BTW), I'm starting to think "Arrma tough" is more a joke than a badge of honor. I've had better luck, with a Traxxas Rustler with the old plastic mid gear. You guys that have been around for a while know exactly what I'm talking about.

I didn't want to make this post, but here I am, man of my word. I said if it failed in any way, i'd tell you. I'm telling you DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON THE 4S STUFF, it's as weak as the 3s stuff. I may pick up a new set of 3s ones, just to tide me over till end of the year, but I'll be burning slipper clutch to keep it together.

Or maybe just save up for a proper traxxas, they are expensive, but never EVER had a driveshaft issue, even stock. I put a turn and a half on a set of Emaxx driveshafts and they never once popped. The day I swapped them for Revo driveshafts (bogger and stronger, THEY WERE STILL WORKING.

All i know right now is that Arrma Tough feels more like a Joke than anything complimentary

The problem isn't the materials used, it is the design. This design has been in use since the early 90s and every single one I have seen breaks at the ujoint.

 

[crazyjr]

The problem isn't the materials used, it is the design. This design has been in use since the early 90s and every single one I have seen breaks at the ujoint.

Then how come traxxas don't break? I have had many traxxas, never once had a single driveshaft issue. the worst i ever saw was the Emaxx (10 LB truck on 12 cells Nimh and later 4s lipo) twisting over a turn and a half (this was over like 2-3 years) and it never broke. I had a stampede and rustler both with the VXL 3s and on 3s lipo's and they didn't even flinch.

The 4s shafts installed fine, I even did a light test through the suspension range, using a battery to make sure nothing rubbed, it didn't. I'm still trying to understand how a seemingly stronger driveshaft breaks faster than a apparently weaker one. And yes as you said, u joint slipped out, it didn't break per se

All I know, is right now I'm feeling buyers remorse for not getting the traxxas. I would have been out about $150.00 more (looking at the hoss for comparison), but at least it shouldn't break

 

[slick2500]

Then how come traxxas don't break? I have had many traxxas, never once had a single driveshaft issue. the worst i ever saw was the Emaxx (10 LB truck on 12 cells Nimh and later 4s lipo) twisting over a turn and a half (this was over like 2-3 years) and it never broke. I had a stampede and rustler both with the VXL 3s and on 3s lipo's and they didn't even flinch.

The 4s shafts installed fine, I even did a light test through the suspension range, using a battery to make sure nothing rubbed, it didn't. I'm still trying to understand how a seemingly stronger driveshaft breaks faster than a apparently weaker one. And yes as you said, u joint slipped out, it didn't break per se

All I know, is right now I'm feeling buyers remorse for not getting the traxxas. I would have been out about $150.00 more (looking at the hoss for comparison), but at least it shouldn't break

The Traxxas ones break all of the time, that is actually one of the biggest complaints about them. You must be one of the lucky ones but every plastic Traxxas driveshaft I have used except for the ones off the Rustler 4x4 have broken at the u joint. Every car from the Bandit to the V1 E-Revo breaks the driveshafts. https://www.google.com/search?q=traxxas+driveshaft+upgrade&client=ms-android-att-us-revc&sxsrf=AOaemvI7j5grBrNBKr-D5sw3f1YR-pCfOw:1634588715064&ei=K9htYZi4A_KW_QbVjYeIBg&oq=traxxas+driveshaft+&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAEYATIECCMQJzIFCAAQgAQyBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeMgYIABAWEB4yBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeMgYIABAWEB46BAgAEEc6BQghEKsCUN-GAVjzkAFgyJsBaABwAXgAgAHaAogB6g2SAQcwLjMuNC4xmAEAoAEByAEEwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

 

[crazyjr]

The Traxxas ones break all of the time, that is actually one of the biggest complaints about them. You must be one of the lucky ones but every plastic Traxxas driveshaft I have used except for the ones off the Rustler 4x4 have broken at the u joint. Every car from the Bandit to the V1 E-Revo breaks the driveshafts. https://www.google.com/search?q=traxxas+driveshaft+upgrade&client=ms-android-att-us-revc&sxsrf=AOaemvI7j5grBrNBKr-D5sw3f1YR-pCfOw:1634588715064&ei=K9htYZi4A_KW_QbVjYeIBg&oq=traxxas+driveshaft+&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAEYATIECCMQJzIFCAAQgAQyBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeMgYIABAWEB4yBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeMgYIABAWEB46BAgAEEc6BQghEKsCUN-GAVjzkAFgyJsBaABwAXgAgAHaAogB6g2SAQcwLjMuNC4xmAEAoAEByAEEwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

I had traxxas for years and never had a drive shaft break. Now this was before the 3s 4wd's, which might be what you are talking about, but never in any i owned. just saying from my experience, this was all around the 2008-2010 timeframe, This arrma is the first RC I've had since around 2013, and I'm basing my experience with it, based on the ones I had back then. Is it possible quality changed? Yes, the 3s 4wd line is probably a bit rough on drivetrains as well. I can't say based on no experience. I'm just saying, in my experience (2-3s 2wd's and Emaxx/revo) I never had issues with driveshafts on traxxas

 

[gotnitro]

...
a what now...

That would be a "bruh" (bro) (bruh-truggy) BRUH Truggy- Truggy- Truggy... Maybe even a 24s MUGGY.. That would be a M/T buggy or "TRUGGY" TLR Muggy's are about 15-18 years old..

 

[slick2500]

I had traxxas for years and never had a drive shaft break. Now this was before the 3s 4wd's, which might be what you are talking about, but never in any i owned. just saying from my experience, this was all around the 2008-2010 timeframe, This arrma is the first RC I've had since around 2013, and I'm basing my experience with it, based on the ones I had back then. Is it possible quality changed? Yes, the 3s 4wd line is probably a bit rough on drivetrains as well. I can't say based on no experience. I'm just saying, in my experience (2-3s 2wd's and Emaxx/revo) I never had issues with driveshafts on traxxas

My Stampede 2wd is the 2013 model and on 3s it would snap the axles quite a bit, I tried the 4wd ones on my Ecx Ruckus 2wd brushless and they would break as well. I only ever used the stock shafts for the Stampede 4x4 once on 3s and that was all she wrote. My Merv had the steel Traxxas cvds as the previous owner broke a lot of the stock plastic ones. My 1/18 Ecx Ruckus has the same style of driveshafts and they too would break from time to time.

 

[CameronCodes]

That would be a "bruh" (bro) (bruh-truggy) BRUH Truggy- Truggy- Truggy... Maybe even a 24s MUGGY.. That would be a M/T buggy or "TRUGGY" TLR Muggy's are about 15-18 years old..

*dies from dying*

 

[crazyjr]

My Stampede 2wd is the 2013 model and on 3s it would snap the axles quite a bit, I tried the 4wd ones on my Ecx Ruckus 2wd brushless and they would break as well. I only ever used the stock shafts for the Stampede 4x4 once on 3s and that was all she wrote. My Merv had the steel Traxxas cvds as the previous owner broke a lot of the stock plastic ones. My 1/18 Ecx Ruckus has the same style of driveshafts and they too would break from time to time.

If that's the case then that's the case, Apologies for your issues, as I said, I never had issues. At least with traxxas you have a good third party making solid driveshafts, MIP makes a very good CVD design, they are the original designer of the CVD. I know HR has them and GPM, but when I used to run RC those were the cheap bling guys like Integy, I doubt the quality is up from then as most places cheapen as they grow

 

[slick2500]

If that's the case then that's the case, Apologies for your issues, as I said, I never had issues. At least with traxxas you have a good third party making solid driveshafts, MIP makes a very good CVD design, they are the original designer of the CVD. I know HR has them and GPM, but when I used to run RC those were the cheap bling guys like Integy, I doubt the quality is up from then as most places cheapen as they grow

It is a common problem for a lot of people to constantly break the stock Traxxas driveshafts not just a problem for me. Like I stated it is a flaw in the design metal on plastic, the plastic wears fast then eventually it breaks right at the u joint.

Yup MIP are still the best and HR, GPM and Integy are crap. Now there are also 20 different Chinese brands that make driveshafts that all suck as well. All of the third party driveshafts for the Arrma 3s platform are from HR, GPM, Integy and the crappy Chinese companies. The "quality" of them is hit or miss and they don't even fit the Typhon or Big Rock Crew Cab.

 

[crazyjr]

It is a common problem for a lot of people to constantly break the stock Traxxas driveshafts not just a problem for me. Like I stated it is a flaw in the design metal on plastic, the plastic wears fast then eventually it breaks right at the u joint.

Yup MIP are still the best and HR, GPM and Integy are crap. Now there are also 20 different Chinese brands that make driveshafts that all suck as well. All of the third party driveshafts for the Arrma 3s platform are from HR, GPM, Integy and the crappy Chinese companies. The "quality" of them is hit or miss and they don't even fit the Typhon or Big Rock Crew Cab.

Yeah I have that worry with the Arrma ones, now that you mention the the driveshaft differences, I have the V3 BR so almost worried the factory replacement 3s CVD's might not fit (too short). I do know they and the 4s output from the diff can be hybridized. there is a forum post on here talking about it. I need to look at the parts side by side, i wonder if the wheel end (the ball end itself) is similar to the diff end (ball end). Might can get the 4s shafts and use the 3s ends (Diff and wheel spline couplings)

 

[*420+3RC*]

Yeah I have that worry with the Arrma ones, now that you mention the the driveshaft differences, I have the V3 BR so almost worried the factory replacement 3s CVD's might not fit (too short). I do know they and the 4s output from the diff can be hybridized. there is a forum post on here talking about it. I need to look at the parts side by side, i wonder if the wheel end (the ball end itself) is similar to the diff end (ball end). Might can get the 4s shafts and use the 3s ends (Diff and wheel spline couplings)

Im pretty sure thats what was in the post as well. But just thinking back not looking back. Lol my .02

 

[crazyjr]

This'll be my last post on this, I did some checking on my stuff (did a go through when I got it), When I did this, I adjusted the slipper nut but forgot where I set it,. With no baseline on how it should be tightened (no factory instructions), I used my knowledge based on similar vehicles i as (Like E maxx and revos). I had it tightened about a turn out, apologies for not thinking about that. Well at that setting the slipper wouldn't break by twisting manually (used the driveshaft on the diff side of the slipper and turning the spur), so I set about trying to find a good break point. At 2 full revolutions (1 more than I had set) it finally broke loose by hand, but took a lot of effort, so i toyed with it, till I felt it felt good at about 2 1/8 turns. anyways took my remaining 3s driveshaft (the one that didn't break) and put it on the side that both the 3s and 4s driveshafts broke. Todays run confirmed i did in fact have the slipper too tight. Not sure why this isn't mentioned anywhere, it needs to be known

For those who read this far, when you set your slipper, Do it like this. This applies to V3 Big Rock and all other related 3s RC's, I know there are differences, so not sure if it'll work there
1. Once you remove the slipper, take the red aluminum spline and the front driveshaft and put them on the back side of the slipper. This will be your gripper for testing the slipper tightness

2. Using your 2.5 mm Allen key (the big one), contact the screw and verify you can turn it. considering the mass production and speed, might be bottomed out. Also verify which way it loosens and tightens (lefy loosey/counterclockwise, righty tighty/clockwise)

3. (No matter how I say this, it'll never sound right, so deal with it) Once you know where you are and if the screw turns (you can turn the screw without the driveshaft) if it's not tight (bottomed out), tighten it till it stops (You'll feel it as the spring bottoms out, please don't strip it). Once bottomed turn it out 2 complete turns (counter clockwise) and test using the driveshaft in the diff side of the slipper and grab the Spur with your free hand, twisting to see if the slipper breaks loose (it should, considering average adult grip. Kids might need an adult), if it doesn't turn 1/4 turn test again. If it does, decide how you want it. At 2 turns it barely broke loose for me, so I went 1/4 turn test again. This time it felt too loose so tightened it about 1/8 turn is it felt better (for me), this will be a feel thing for you and needs to be experimented with. over time you'll get a feel for what it wants and needs for proper use.

I know it looks complicated and i know I'm a lousy writer, but once you do it and understand you should be OK. it'd be easier if I could do a vid, but no camera so sorry. It's in my head, but hard to put down