Kraton What kind of maintenance?

Molle123

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Hello!
I did just have my first run with the Kraton V2 with 6S - Which seems to be a little to much power for me as a newbie! Have to get a 4S pack instead I think.

But to the question;
What kind of maintenance should I do on my Kraton, and how often? I guess some parts needs to be lubricated now and then.
Maybe a stupid question but I'm totally new to this :)
 

chalmene

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Welcome! There is not much maintenance needed in my opinion, others may have other stories. I keep mine clean for the most part, and look it over for signs of damage / any loose fittings each run. I would order a set of sealed (Fast Eddy) bearings for it, the stock ones can wear out quickly sometimes. No need to lubricate them, they are sealed with grease. You could open the covers on your front and rear diff cases and check to see if your spur gears are lubed from the factory. I use white lithium grease from a tube on mine. Other than that, not really much to maintain until you break or wear out a part. :)
 

Vanning

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I found that packing grease in the bottom of the differential cases keeps more sand and dust out. I'll grease the ring and pinion but I'll also put grease all along the inside bottom edges of the case. I have way lest grit inside the case these days.
 

Molle123

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Okey, thanks for the tips!
Yesterday I noticed that the front wheels do spin with more resistance than the rear wheels when the electrical system is off.
I also here some sound when I spin the front wheels that I don't here when spinning rear wheels. Is this normal?
Don't really now how to describe the sound, but I think it comes from the front diff.
 

chalmene

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Is the suspension fully extended when you hear the noise? Its probably caused by a bit of binding in your dogbones/cvds. There is a set-screw on the top of each lower arm close to your diff cases. Screw these in a bit to lessen your travel until the grinding noise goes away. You can also add some shims to your upper suspension balls to help with it if needed, as Im sure Vanning^ will suggest this. :)
 

Vanning

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Oh yeah boys.....been there done that. Good looking out chalmene. I'm thinking that issue may have been from Arrma correcting the old front bearing issue. I could be wrong but it sure was an easy fix. The good thing is to recognize it fast and get it corrected.
 

Molle123

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Is the suspension fully extended when you hear the noise? Its probably caused by a bit of binding in your dogbones/cvds. There is a set-screw on the top of each lower arm close to your diff cases. Screw these in a bit to lessen your travel until the grinding noise goes away. You can also add some shims to your upper suspension balls to help with it if needed, as Im sure Vanning^ will suggest this. :)
Yes, suspension was fully extended. Should I do what you suggested me to do anyway?
 

chalmene

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Yes, suspension was fully extended. Should I do what you suggested me to do anyway?
Yes, adjust the suspension travel with those screws until you can spin the wheels with no binding
 

Vanning

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I rather shim the A-arms so you can keep all the down travel. Try removing the lower shims and placing them in the top a-arms. That will move the dog bone pins away from the diff cup.
 

Molle123

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I rather shim the A-arms so you can keep all the down travel. Try removing the lower shims and placing them in the top a-arms. That will move the dog bone pins away from the diff cup.
Just came home and tried spinn the front wheels with suspension compressed and the sound was gone. You were totally right guys, big thanks! :)
I'll try to fix it tomorrow.
 
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Vanning

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Try adding a thin washer or another shim here.
upload_2016-9-9_17-37-22.png
 

Molle123

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Try adding a thin washer or another shim here.
View attachment 2764
What do you think is best, remove the lower shim and add it so I have dubble shims at the upper arm and no one at the lower? Or leave the lower one and just buy a washer and add to the upper?

Thanks for the helpful picture btw :)
 

Vanning

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I myself added a washer to the top and I have full travel of the suspension without the dog bone pins running into the diff cups. You might have to adjust the toe afterwards and you will have less negative camber. You just have to mess around with it all to get it how you want.
 

Molle123

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I myself added a washer to the top and I have full travel of the suspension without the dog bone pins running into the diff cups. You might have to adjust the toe afterwards and you will have less negative camber. You just have to mess around with it all to get it how you want.
Nice! How many millimetres is your total shim distance at the upper a-arm?
 

Molle123

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My first real hard drive today did result in front right top pivot ball released from a-arm.

Tr2w2dN.jpg
Maybe this happened because I didn't loctite the pivot ball after I did shim it earlier today?
But do loctite work well between metal and plastic? I have the standard blue Loctite 243.

Also the front right tire broke. But I did expect that to happen so I ordered an extra pair of pre mounted Badlands 3.8 together with the car.

But this worries me most:
BrJhxkz.jpg
Not the best picture but it is very much oil under and around the central diff. Is this normal or do I have a oil leakage in the central diff?
 

chalmene

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It looks like you may have a leaky center diff. Do not use loctite on plastic, I use a tiny dab of superglue on the pivot ball threads, has been holding fine. Use half a drop, will still be removable.
 

Molle123

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It looks like you may have a leaky center diff. Do not use loctite on plastic, I use a tiny dab of superglue on the pivot ball threads, has been holding fine. Use half a drop, will still be removable.
Okey, the I guess I have to remove the center diff to check for leaks..
Puuuh =/
 

chalmene

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Okey, the I guess I have to remove the center diff to check for leaks..
Puuuh =/
While you are at it, I would replace the diff fluid. Stock weight is 10k in the center I believe. I am using 50k in the center, helps keep the front tires from balooning as much.
 

Molle123

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ojFAYHj.jpg
Really messy..

I'm one screw from getting the center diff out but it's impossible to move that screw. All other loctited screws released with help from the heat of a soldering kit. But this last one is stuck
 
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chalmene

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ojFAYHj.jpg
Really messy..

I'm one screw from getting the center diff out but it's impossible to move that screw. All other loctited screws released with help from the heat of a soldering kit. But this last one is stuck
It looks like you are missing the set screw that goes in that hole on your diff, that is where your leakage is coming from.
 

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