Kraton What kind of maintenance?

[Molle123]

It looks like you are missing the set screw that goes in that hole on your diff, that is where your leakage is coming from.

Okey.
Well I'm going to remove the diff and fill it up with new 50k oil.
Thinking about shim the diff at the same time. Is it necessary to do that when running stock motor with 6S?

 

[chalmene]

Okey.
Well I'm going to remove the diff and fill it up with new 50k oil.
Thinking about shim the diff at the same time. Is it necessary to do that when running stock motor with 6S?

Plenty of people run without extra shims and are just fine, different experiences everywhere.

 

[Vanning]

Be careful when you tighten metal into plastic...YOu may have over done the a-arm. It only needs to be snug. Take a tooth pick, dip it in crazy glue, then coat the inside of the hole with it. Let it dry, then you can thread the ball back in. Don't go crazy and torque it down too hard. It will strip the plastic out. Mines working perfect. Just use enough of a shim to fix the issue.

It looks like you are missing the set screw that goes in that hole on your diff, that is where your leakage is coming from.

It looks like the center diff case is cracked !!! Man....6S sure is too much for you !!!! Don't worry you can rebuild it. Get that all fixed up and put a 4S in. It's a learning experience and you are diving right in. Good for you.

Plenty of people run without extra shims and are just fine, different experiences everywhere.

It all depends on what the individual truck needs, well said. Take advice and apply it where you think helps you and adjust accordingly. It takes me lots of time to get RC's running right. Hang in there bud...it takes time.

 

[chalmene]

[QUOTE="Vanning, post:
It looks like the center diff case is cracked !!! Man....6S sure is too much for you !!!! Don't worry you can rebuild it. Get that all fixed up and put a 4S in. It's a learning experience and you are diving right in. Good for you.
[/QUOTE]

Definitely cracked. I see it now that I'm on my PC, and not my phone...

 

[Vanning]

Yeah...I wasn't sure if it was a crack or what. That's a nicely exploded center diff, well done !!! I'm truly impressed with a new guy that just gives it hell first time out. You got to respect that.. Sucks that he has to get that repaired but at least he's learning and staying real calm. Total respect.

6S for your first RC.....Nice !!!!

 

[Dubbl-A]

Now that's something I didn't expect to see...a cracked diff housing...
My Kraton got run over by a car and that didn't happen! Can't wait to see what you pull outta that diff when you open it up!

 

[Molle123]

Yeah...I wasn't sure if it was a crack or what. That's a nicely exploded center diff, well done !!! I'm truly impressed with a new guy that just gives it hell first time out. You got to respect that.. Sucks that he has to get that repaired but at least he's learning and staying real calm. Total respect.

6S for your first RC.....Nice !!!!

Maybe 6S is to much. 4S will be enough for sure.
But I think the crack came from a little stone. I found a little stone that lay under the diff cup after the run. Bad luck I guess :/

 

[Vanning]

It does look like a stone shaved down a portion of the diff case. Hope you get it all fixed back up....that was all just bad luck. Get the truck fixed and go test it on 4S in a large parking lot. Get everything tuned up nice and ease into it. 6S is fine but you got to ease into it later on after you are all dialed in. LOL.

 

[Molle123]

Just placed an order on a new center diff, diff shims, 50.000 cSt oil for diff. Hopefully up n running soon.

 

[chalmene]

Just placed an order on a new center diff, diff shims, 50.000 cSt oil for diff. Hopefully up n running soon.

Have you found the right shims and where to install them? I can post links if you need

 

[Swerny]

my centre diff literally exploded yesterday spraying gears and grease everywhere. There are 3 big holes in the casing.

I was running 5s on flat gravel at the time.

Moral of the story....Diff maintenance is definitely important.

 

[Molle123]

I found Tp-parts RC-extreme on Youtube. He shows in video when he build and shim his central diff. I ordered the shims he mention in the video.

But I'm glad if you post more links and info on the subject. Info is good

 

[chalmene]

I found Tp-parts RC-extreme on Youtube. He shows in video when he build and shim his central diff. I ordered the shims he mention in the video.

But I'm glad if you post more links and info on the subject. Info is good

Yes, that's the video. You should be good.

my centre diff literally exploded yesterday spraying gears and grease everywhere. There are 3 big holes in the casing.

I was running 5s on flat gravel at the time.

Moral of the story....Diff maintenance is definitely important.

Damn, that stinks man, what do you think the cause was? Insufficient fluid or bad bearing?

 

[Swerny]

Damn, that stinks man, what do you think the cause was? Insufficient fluid or bad bearing?

No idea.

I was trouble shooting the Kraton.

swapped the CD from my Typhon in, no change.

Got to the back and thought the input gear looked stripped, so swapped in the rear gear and the rear CD from the Typhon.

Fixed the problem.

Took it out for a run, the thing literally grenaded itself halfway though my second 5S pack.

The CD had run fine on the Typhon, even with short bursts on 6S.

It was bone stock, and judging from the lack of fluid in my other diffs, i suspect it overheated

EDIT: I didn't realize the input gear and diff gear were different on the Typhon to the Kraton. luckily I swapped the rear diff at the same time or it wouldn't have worked

 

[chalmene]

Huh, that is concerning. So diffs were stock and not shimmed? I do notice my output cups and shafts getting warmer after shimming the diffs, I'm guessing the tighter mesh is causing more heat. It would be nice if we could get some metal diff casings.

 

[Vanning]

If your motor gets too hot...the heat will transfer into the center diff and might add to an already hot diff and push it over the limit. So the fluid has to be good to cool it also. If the diffs are too tight, they get hot and if the dog bones are a little bent, they get hot. Also...bad bearings and too thin of a center diff fluid on 5S to 6S may cause more heat in the front output CD drive from it diffing out the front.

After I shimmed my diffs, I lost horse power according to my data logger. But I also added 200K into my center diff. I'm not sure what dropped the horse power because I did too many things at once. I'm trying to see if it picks back up after a few more runs. I'm thinking the diffs will break in a little more. I'll have to check the heat on them also. Spinning the diffs by hand, they feel good. (feels smooth) but you can tell the shims took away lots of play. I took the orange O-rings and coated them in Team Associated Green slime just for the heck of it also. The stuff works great on shock O-rings.

I download my data logger after every pack and look for changes after every run.

I would say that the diffs fluid viscosity and or the level of fluid has to be good...especially the center diff.

 

[Molle123]

I've looked at videos and seen people remove the whole center diff from the red aluminium mount pretty easy. But mine diff won't get out of there.. Why?!

 

[Vanning]

For screws with red Loctite on them..... get a Weller soldering station with a pointy tip...turn it to 850 degrees F and put the point inside the hex of the set screws. Wait a little bit till you feel the heat transfer into the cup. Then take a fresh proper sized allen wrench and turn out the set screw. Use caution and common sense while doing this.

To get that center diff out...get a brass drift and a hammer. Put the drift in the cup and lightly tap on the drift....it will push the bearing out. The bearing is slightly pressed in that red mount...It takes a few small taps with the drift and hammer to get out.

You could also use a small block of wood and a hammer...put the wood on the diff cup and tap it with the hammer....Don't hit your motor.

 

[Molle123]

For screws with red Loctite on them..... get a Weller soldering station with a pointy tip...turn it to 850 degrees F and put the point inside the hex of the set screws. Wait a little bit till you feel the heat transfer into the cup. Then take a fresh proper sized allen wrench and turn out the set screw. Use caution and common sense while doing this.

To get that center diff out...get a brass drift and a hammer. Put the drift in the cup and lightly tap on the drift....it will push the bearing out. The bearing is slightly pressed in that red mount...It takes a few small taps with the drift and hammer to get out.

You could also use a small block of wood and a hammer...put the wood on the diff cup and tap it with the hammer....Don't hit your motor.

Thanks for the tips! I finally managed to get the apart

Another question. I'm about to building up my new diff at the moment. How much oil shall I fill it with before I put the small pinions in?

I follow Tp-parts RC-extreme's guide at YouTube but I can't really see how much oil he is filling it up with

 

[Molle123]

Finally it's alive
And thanks for all help in here guys!