Typhon What metal parts in the Typhon 6S don't need to be ?

crunchtime

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This recent discussion about 4S has me wondering how practical it would be to reduce the weight of the Typhon 6S by, say..., 1 pound? It sounds like the Typhon 6S is already fast and powerful on 4S, but if it was lighter it could be a beast on 4S. It seems like that is really what the 4S fans wish ARRMA would have done, is put the 6S designs on a diet as opposed to making the 3S line a little sturdier but still no center diff.. I have this same weight reduction question about the Kraton 6S as well, but that may be a much taller ask compared to the Typhon 6S, to become powerful on 4S.

Completely separate topic..... I've been kind of eyeing the Kraton 6S, and I'm a little surprised by the lack of aftermarket bodies that would give it more of an Outcast or Infraction look. I can't remember who said it, somewhere in these forums, but they captured in words something I was already sensing but couldn't put my finger on it. When the car body has a more realistic/impressive look to it, during those times where you're just cruising it around and not necessarily bashing, it makes it more fun. (the same goes for planes, but of course no bashing there) Some may really like the looks of the Kraton as is, and I don't dislike it necessarily. But....I think you know what I mean. I've seen pictures where people have found a way to make the Notorious body fit, and it looked pretty great, but I'd prefer an aftermarket designed to fit it.

And another completely separate topic. I had been 99% in the 3S forum, and read so often comments about how much better the durability is for 6S. Well now that I've been reading a lot in the 6S forum lately, it is easy to get the impression that 6S durability isn't so great either. Not sure what to make of it all.
 

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I guess some easy ones are the shock towers, you can go carbon fiber there. Hell there is probably a carbon fiber chassis some where too. Carbon fiber top plate etc, As for durability, I think the 3s line has it's advantages but one place the 6s line poops on it is the drivetrain, 6s drivetrain can even handle 8s so it stands up to 6s amazingly imo. On 4s it will hold up extremely well. When I upgraded my typhon 3s to 4s it felt like I had to upgrade everything. Metal spur, metal diffs, metal front and rear drive shafts etc.

By the time I was done I would have been better off just buying a TLR typhon it's definitely as heavy as one lol.
 

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This recent discussion about 4S has me wondering how practical it would be to reduce the weight of the Typhon 6S by, say..., 1 pound? It sounds like the Typhon 6S is already fast and powerful on 4S, but if it was lighter it could be a beast on 4S. It seems like that is really what the 4S fans wish ARRMA would have done, is put the 6S designs on a diet as opposed to making the 3S line a little sturdier but still no center diff.. I have this same weight reduction question about the Kraton 6S as well, but that may be a much taller ask compared to the Typhon 6S, to become powerful on 4S.

Completely separate topic..... I've been kind of eyeing the Kraton 6S, and I'm a little surprised by the lack of aftermarket bodies that would give it more of an Outcast or Infraction look. I can't remember who said it, somewhere in these forums, but they captured in words something I was already sensing but couldn't put my finger on it. When the car body has a more realistic/impressive look to it, during those times where you're just cruising it around and not necessarily bashing, it makes it more fun. (the same goes for planes, but of course no bashing there) Some may really like the looks of the Kraton as is, and I don't dislike it necessarily. But....I think you know what I mean. I've seen pictures where people have found a way to make the Notorious body fit, and it looked pretty great, but I'd prefer an aftermarket designed to fit it.

And another completely separate topic. I had been 99% in the 3S forum, and read so often comments about how much better the durability is for 6S. Well now that I've been reading a lot in the 6S forum lately, it is easy to get the impression that 6S durability isn't so great either. Not sure what to make of it all.
Carbon Fiber!
Ive been shopping Carbon fiber parts.
Lighter wheels.

Basherqueen Carbon Fiber Set Arrma Typhon 6S / EXB (4 pcs)

Carbon Fiber Chassis for 1/8 Arrma Tyhpon 6s BLX V1 - V5

Carbon Fiber Adjustable Rear Wing Spoiler for fit Arrma Typhon Talion 6s
 

sumguy99

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Completely separate topic..... I've been kind of eyeing the Kraton 6S, and I'm a little surprised by the lack of aftermarket bodies that would give it more of an Outcast or Infraction look. I can't remember who said it, somewhere in these forums, but they captured in words something I was already sensing but couldn't put my finger on it. When the car body has a more realistic/impressive look to it, during those times where you're just cruising it around and not necessarily bashing, it makes it more fun. (the same goes for planes, but of course no bashing there) Some may really like the looks of the Kraton as is, and I don't dislike it necessarily. But....I think you know what I mean. I've seen pictures where people have found a way to make the Notorious body fit, and it looked pretty great, but I'd prefer an aftermarket designed to fit it.

And another completely separate topic. I had been 99% in the 3S forum, and read so often comments about how much better the durability is for 6S. Well now that I've been reading a lot in the 6S forum lately, it is easy to get the impression that 6S durability isn't so great either. Not sure what to make of it all.
Here is a body specifically for the Kraton that looks like a regular truck except you still get the truggy look in the rear.
https://www.prolineracing.com/product/1-8-2021-chevrolet-silverado-2500-hd-clear-body/PRO359200.html

If you don't want it to look like a truggy so much, you could get a similar sized body and trim the rear to make it fit. The wheelbase on that Proline Silverado body is 12.65 inches and its 7 inches wide, so you could choose a slightly longer body that is about the same width like one of these:

https://jconcepts.net/1984-ford-f250-mt-scale-body
https://jconcepts.net/1988-chevy-silverado-extended-cab-body

All rigs are going to break at some point, so there are going to be repairs on any of them, even the ones people tout as being the toughest. As for 3s vs 6s durability individual results may vary based on how you set it up, use it, and pure luck good or bad. :LOL: I can give my experience but certainly can't guarantee anyone else will have the same or close to it.

I had a 3s Typhon first. In the first 3 months with it I went through 2 rear wings, 3 or 4 slippers, a bent motor plate, broken front arm, multiple bent shock rods, 3 center drive shafts, motor, rear input gear and diff housing. Got a 6s Typhon near the end of March. I've run it a lot more than I ran the 3s and in the first 3 months I've broken 1 wing and 1 rod end, bent a rear shock tower and I think I might have fried the esc today but need to test it in the morning. Mostly just high speed dirt bashing with very little jumping with either of them and its small jumps when I do.

For the price difference, its hard for me to see a good reason to buy the 3s unless you specifically need a lightweight rig because the 6s is definitely a bit heavier but handles its weight really well. You can also run the 6s lineup on 4s and it will be plenty fast while being easier on the electronics and drivetrain. Just me personally and others may feel different, but I have a hard time seeing me ever buying a 3s Arrma again after owning a 6s.
 

21STalion

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This recent discussion about 4S has me wondering how practical it would be to reduce the weight of the Typhon 6S by, say..., 1 pound? It sounds like the Typhon 6S is already fast and powerful on 4S, but if it was lighter it could be a beast on 4S. It seems like that is really what the 4S fans wish ARRMA would have done, is put the 6S designs on a diet as opposed to making the 3S line a little sturdier but still no center diff.. I have this same weight reduction question about the Kraton 6S as well, but that may be a much taller ask compared to the Typhon 6S, to become powerful on 4S.

Completely separate topic..... I've been kind of eyeing the Kraton 6S, and I'm a little surprised by the lack of aftermarket bodies that would give it more of an Outcast or Infraction look. I can't remember who said it, somewhere in these forums, but they captured in words something I was already sensing but couldn't put my finger on it. When the car body has a more realistic/impressive look to it, during those times where you're just cruising it around and not necessarily bashing, it makes it more fun. (the same goes for planes, but of course no bashing there) Some may really like the looks of the Kraton as is, and I don't dislike it necessarily. But....I think you know what I mean. I've seen pictures where people have found a way to make the Notorious body fit, and it looked pretty great, but I'd prefer an aftermarket designed to fit it.

And another completely separate topic. I had been 99% in the 3S forum, and read so often comments about how much better the durability is for 6S. Well now that I've been reading a lot in the 6S forum lately, it is easy to get the impression that 6S durability isn't so great either. Not sure what to make of it all.
On 4s a 6s Typhon would be one of the toughest cars on a race track. Period.

That's why it's a good starter car.

There is a lot you can do to make these suckers lighter. You can easily drop a pound.

Ti balls
Ti links
V3 motor mount
Remove excessive wiring
smaller motor and esc
Carbon towers
Racing wheels/tires
Plastic chassis braces and/or lightweight chassis
Carbon top plate
Usually there are lighter arm options (rpm or earlier version)
CVDs for rear
Heck, you can get Durango CVDs all around
Shorty battery pack

Other race cars will still be lighter but you'll scare the pants off of them with the Arrma that light and fast
 

slick2500

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On 4s a 6s Typhon would be one of the toughest cars on a race track. Period.

That's why it's a good starter car.

There is a lot you can do to make these suckers lighter. You can easily drop a pound.

Ti balls
Ti links
V3 motor mount
Remove excessive wiring
smaller motor and esc
Carbon towers
Racing wheels/tires
Plastic chassis braces and/or lightweight chassis
Carbon top plate
Usually there are lighter arm options (rpm or earlier version)
CVDs for rear
Heck, you can get Durango CVDs all around
Shorty battery pack

Other race cars will still be lighter but you'll scare the pants off of them with the Arrma that light and fast
Putting cvds on the rear of the Typhon is not as easy of a task as putting them on the Kraton https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/bearings-mayhem.5415/#post-52718, you need to change to Team Durango output cups in the rear I found 1 set on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/374039542719?hash=item57167e7bbf:g:SEgAAOSw6yxd3aG1.
 
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The finisher is one kraton body option
https://jconcepts.net/finnisher-arrma-kraton-blx-body
i got one that’s clear
B63BC78C-5096-4885-B1DA-D9A0DD2A51F4.png
 

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If your goal is to have fun with a custom project, then all the advice above is solid. But if you’re truly out to have a lightweight buggy, I’d skip the Typhon altogether. You could spend serious money on all the upgrades mentioned above and still be heavier than a stock race buggy.

I bash with a Team Associated RC8B3.2e and it is an absolute screamer on 4S. It’s quite a bit lighter than the Typhon. I’ve run it hard - 20ft jumps and crashes - and haven’t broken a single part.

Arrma makes a great car but keep in mind that their priority is durability. Huge jumps, skate parks, high-speed crashes, etc. In most cases the easiest way to achieve durability is a thicker (and heavier) part.
 

crunchtime

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Thursday evening I was starting to fall asleep when I posted my questions. Last night get home from work to find a gold mine of information. Thanks much everyone.

If your goal is to have fun with a custom project, then all the advice above is solid. But if you’re truly out to have a lightweight buggy, I’d skip the Typhon altogether. You could spend serious money on all the upgrades mentioned above and still be heavier than a stock race buggy.

Not 100% sure what my goal is. I guess trying to make some decisions. (there's a little more to it that I didn't mention/embarrassing, impulse buy during hot sale without double checking with wife because concerned the sale might quickly vanish, figuring could return if absolutely necessary. Now need to weigh against other actual priorities, but at least not in the dog house too badly / well let's say improving, there is hope, more on that later)

I've been pretty content with the performance of our 3S BLX trucks, but had been starting to eye 6S (more impressive design) and have a good sense of the prices.

I probably wouldn't want to spend the $ required to do it, but if reducing the weight of Typhon 6S goes far enough to be close to the Typhon 3S weight, couldn't it scream on 3S and maybe not need 4S? I was looking at all of the electronics in the 6S, and it's all 3S compatible. Maybe have to reprogram the ESC? Maybe the Firma 2050Kv brushless is not so ideal for 3S, but the literature says it supports 3S-6S. Most people try to convert their Typhon 3S to 6S and I'm thinking the opposite.

@sumguy99, @Alan, of the Kraton 6S body options, even though I'm more of a Ford fan, the one I liked most was the Silverado. The others were also good, but I'd probably just stick with the Kraton body when bashing and the Silverado for looks / taking it easy. I really like the looks of the Notorious body on the Kraton as well, that people have somehow made fit. I'm also just now realizing that, to me, the color of the Kraton 6S EXB body looks a lot better than the blue or red. I assume the Kraton body mount locations are identical between the EXB and RTR.


Update: rough night for the Granite tonight. The fan on the motor is no longer spinning, and my transmitter range went to crap. I think I figured out the antenna range issue. It looks like the outer jacket over the antenna has broken off, and the small wire antenna itself was bent over some towards the ESC. I'll straighten that out and see how it goes tomorrow. For the motor fan, I notice that the fan doesn't spin freely. Guess I'll take that apart and see if I can find anything / hopefully the bearing didn't go bad.

Another update: the motor fan issue was caused by grass clippings that were hidden when looking down, but once apart could see they were wrapped around. Not sure what to think about how the fan screws mount to the motor heat sink, but I guess whatever works works.
 
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