Granite What would you change on the Voltage vehicles while keeping them inexpensive?

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sadlerbw

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As my Granite Voltage has slowly morphed from what the truck started as into something noticeably faster and more expensive, I've been thinking about what I've ended up doing to the truck, and what would have been cheap or easy for ARRMA to do for me to make the Voltage just a little bit better. Here are the top things I've come up with:

- Change the Diff outdrives. They don't have to be metal, but it's become obvious that the current shape puts too much stress on the plastic. Maybe just add a grub screw like some folks have, or change the size/shape of the outdrive to spread the stress over a larger area of plastic. I would also accept changing to the slider driveshafts, but I'm guessing those cost too much compared to the dogbone.

- Mold in screw holes to mount a 40mm fan over the motor. That big hole over the motor is just about perfectly sized to fit a 40mm fan on top of it, but all the places you would want to put a screw in are either thin or have something important underneath them. I don't need ARRMA to include an actual fan, but having mounting holes for one molded in like they did for the radio box would be super convenient.

- Switch to hex-drive screws. I doubt there is even a cost difference.

- Final suggestion: If any of the above costs any money, you can save some by not including the plastic wheel nut tool. That thing is a complete joke and split apart completely the one time I tried to use it. Save your pennies and stop including that thing.

Those are the ideas that I've got for improving things without adding much cost. Obviously, I'd love it if the truck was brushless from the start, but that isn't realistic at the price point the Voltages actually sell for. So, what do you folks wish ARRMA would do to the Voltage that they don't right now?
 
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Definitely the grub screws in the diff cup are the best bag for the buck, especially if you want to upgrade anything in the powertrain. After that some cheap shocks from hobbyking were worth it for me, kinda made everything stronger.
 
... actually I attempted grub screws (two in fact, when the first failed) in the diff outdrive, and they didn't work. I ended up having to upgrade to the Losi Center Diff metal version to have any success.
 
... actually I attempted grub screws (two in fact, when the first failed) in the diff outdrive, and they didn't work. I ended up having to upgrade to the Losi Center Diff metal version to have any success.

The grub screws worked ok for me in the end the end though went with Kraton center diff cups and now after not mush use the dog bone pins are beginning to get worn from the metal diff cups. Nothing will really save the plastic cups from stripping after all it's still just plastic. A hole in the diff outputs with a set screw pin like the Traxxas shafts might work never wanted to drill the holes in the outputs on the diff to try.

At the price of $99 it is what it is and is just fine IMHO jack the price back up to $139 again then make some improvements. But yeah Arrma/Horizon should do something with the diff outputs.
 
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The only thing this car needs badly is a slipper...

I don’t really miss the slipper all that much. I admit, when I upped the power, it was a wheelie machine, but I stuck a T-bone bumper/wheelie bar on it, and now it stays upright and I can either ride the wheelie or back off the throttle to keep the nose down. That is on grass at least. On pavement the wheels will break loose and spin before I have problems with the nose coming up.

If this was a racing truck I might be more concerned about limiting the torque with a slipper, but the way I use it wheelies are actually kind of a feature! I guess a slipper could help with the torque to the outdrives...but it would probably cost as much as just using metal outdrives. Maybe they could offer a slipper as a performance part?

I’m on board with the hex screws though!
 
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