Whats the best gearing

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I went ahead and changed gearing again. I put a 36 tooth on the center spool and 35 on the motor and the car is really fast. That's what I'm looking for. I plan on getting a talion next to have some fun at the track.
 
You’re going to be limited by what the MAX6 can output. The gears aren’t going to be a limiting factor. That and aerodynamics.
Hey jondilly1974'

I want to "spool" my Typhon 6s BLX V4. for flat, straight track, (road) speed runs. What do I need, (a link would be appreciated), and how is it installed. I can't find any threads about it. Many thank's!
 
Hey jondilly1974'

I want to "spool" my Typhon 6s BLX V4. for flat, straight track, (road) speed runs. What do I need, (a link would be appreciated), and how is it installed. I can't find any threads about it. Many thank's!
Buy the spool components from the Limitless. They drop right in. You will want to invest in some bigger pinions too. Start with a 20T and move up.
 
I went ahead and changed gearing again. I put a 36 tooth on the center spool and 35 on the motor and the car is really fast. That's what I'm looking for. I plan on getting a talion next to have some fun at the track.
Just an FYI (assuming GRP tires are used at 98mm) this setup is geared for 122mph on 6s and 163 on 8s.
My findings are that you typically get about 75% of what the calculator says due to efficiency losses, mechanical friction, and aerodynamic drag.
This is indicating you will likely see 91mph on 6s and potentially 120 mph on 8s, but I suspect the ESC will choke before that point and likely stop around the 105mph range. (amperage limiting)

Either way it should be quite fast. Just be sure to do 1-2 passes max and then do cool downs. A cheap IR temp gun off amazon will be a wise purchase to keep from cooking the motor and ESC.
 
Just an FYI (assuming GRP tires are used at 98mm) this setup is geared for 122mph on 6s and 163 on 8s.
My findings are that you typically get about 75% of what the calculator says due to efficiency losses, mechanical friction, and aerodynamic drag.
This is indicating you will likely see 91mph on 6s and potentially 120 mph on 8s, but I suspect the ESC will choke before that point and likely stop around the 105mph range. (amperage limiting)

Either way it should be quite fast. Just be sure to do 1-2 passes max and then do cool downs. A cheap IR temp gun off amazon will be a wise purchase to keep from cooking the motor and ESC.
What amps are needed, I thought the maxx 6 had a lot,and I run arma hoons,at the moment
 
What amps are needed, I thought the maxx 6 had a lot,and I run arma hoons,at the moment

I guess that depends on how fast you want to go.
We don't actually know what the current limits are on these ESCs, but it has been well proven that a Castle Mamba Monster series will outperform any HobbyWing esc when it comes to speed due to the higher amperage.

By estimation only (not fact) I suspect these are the real numbers versus what is claimed by the manufacturer or what data logs might show:
BLX 185 = 140 amps
Max 6 = 150 amps
Max 5 = 180 amps
Mamba Monster 2 = 180 amps
Mamba Monster X = 180 amps
XL-X = 200-240 amps

On open wheel buggies this is what I have seen:
1. BLX 185 peaks around 100mph
2. Mamba Monster 2 peaks around 115-120mph
3. XL-X peaks around 130-150mph
4. Max 6 peaks around 105mph
5. Max 5 peaks around 110-120mph

Convert to a GT body from Delta Plastics and you can push into the 140 - 170 mph range (using the XL-X).
I suspect my streamliner body will get people up in the 180 range, but that is only a guess also at this time.
 
I guess that depends on how fast you want to go.
We don't actually know what the current limits are on these ESCs, but it has been well proven that a Castle Mamba Monster series will outperform any HobbyWing esc when it comes to speed due to the higher amperage.

By estimation only (not fact) I suspect these are the real numbers versus what is claimed by the manufacturer or what data logs might show:
BLX 185 = 140 amps
Max 6 = 150 amps
Max 5 = 180 amps
Mamba Monster 2 = 180 amps
Mamba Monster X = 180 amps
XL-X = 200-240 amps

On open wheel buggies this is what I have seen:
1. BLX 185 peaks around 100mph
2. Mamba Monster 2 peaks around 115-120
3. XL-X peaks around 130-150
4. Max 6 peaks around 105
5. Max 5 peaks around 110-120

Convert to a GT body from Delta Plastics and you can push into the 140 - 170 mph range.
I suspect my streamliner body will get people up in the 180 range, but that is only a guess also at this time.
Thank you, very informative, I will keep on playing with it, in the mean time, I have been messing with the talion,same motor and esc, and I had to detune and rehear so I can run it, too much power for the track
 
Thank you, very informative, I will keep on playing with it, in the mean time, I have been messing with the talion,same motor and esc, and I had to detune and rehear so I can run it, too much power for the track
I don't drive at the track, but I would think running 4s might have some advantages.
Lower weight and should put the speed/power just about where you want it....
 
Thank you, very informative, I will keep on playing with it, in the mean time, I have been messing with the talion,same motor and esc, and I had to detune and rehear so I can run it, too much power for the track
I find running my Kraton @6s with tall gearing getting me close to 60mph sustained speeds is quite hard to do even on the 1/4 mile Velodrome Track I run on. It's a 30 deg. banked oval track. Volting down to 4S makes it run fine. My point is that speed running necessitates a straight line venue. IMO. I imagine my Limitless(when finished) will have the same issue and worse on that Velodrome. Locked center spools are even harder to maintain lines during technical driving on a closed course track. IMO.
 
@LibertyMKiii, in your summation above, do cap packs figure into all that?
There is debate on this, and in my opinion those who claim increased speeds are saying that to sell more products.
My opinion is the cap pack provides ripple voltage protection to reduce stress on the esc. I personally (have an EE Degree) do not believe that a setup of parallel capacitors can provide any amperage benefits worth noting. I do believe they help smooth out oscillations and that high quality batteries also help.

Charge up a cap pack and connect it to something and you can see. It does not have the power to run a 40mm brushless motor for even a second.

Castle ESCs are the ones that seem to need cap packs or they will burn up. For whatever reason the HW ESCs can take the abuse of ripple voltage better.
 
I don't drive at the track, but I would think running 4s might have some advantages.
Lower weight and should put the speed/power just about where you want it....
Some of the speed run guys state that 6S is the sweet spot for best speed running. That 8S alone doesn't' necessarily get you those higher speeds all the time. Do you agree?:)
There is debate on this, and in my opinion those who claim increased speeds are saying that to sell more products.
My opinion is the cap pack provides ripple voltage protection to reduce stress on the esc. I personally (have an EE Degree) do not believe that a setup of parallel capacitors can provide any amperage benefits worth noting. I do believe they help smooth out oscillations and that high quality batteries also help.

Charge up a cap pack and connect it to something and you can see. It does not have the power to run a 40mm brushless motor for even a second.
Thanks, that's what I kinda thought. I did source some Panasonic Gold 50v caps to solder and play with. I agree, that ripple is the key advantage to a well designed cap pack if there is any kind of advantage. I am not a Cap believer, but like to experiment before I make any conclusions. Yet some guys say it is the end all be all solution.:)
 
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Some of the speed run guys state that 6S is the sweet spot for best speed running. That 8S alone doesn't' necessarily get you those higher speeds all the time. Do you agree?:)
I would agree for the most part. Running 8s can get you another 5-10 mph, but at a cost of weight, size, and cost.
Ideally just speaking about electronics and LiPos…. potential max wattage output (the real work being done) it is better to run higher voltage and lower amps.

The real limitation is the ESCs that we have available. This is why 6s seems to work so well on them. The motors like the TP4070 are capable of much more. The guys like Nic Case (202 mph record holder) had a custom made esc running 12s. Similar for the SAW out rigger boat record was done on a custom made ESC.
 
Some of the speed run guys state that 6S is the sweet spot for best speed running. That 8S alone doesn't' necessarily get you those higher speeds all the time. Do you agree?:)

Thanks, that's what I kinda thought. I did source some Panasonic Gold 50v caps to solder and play with. I agree, that ripple is the key advantage to a well designed cap pack if there is any kind of advantage. I am not a Cap believer, but like to experiment before I make any conclusions. Yet some guys say it is the end all be all solution.:)
Can someone tell me exactly why a perfectly good battery that's 4s ballooned on me with my set up on the talion,loads of power for ten minutes and very sloq in a second ,now I only run the 6s
 
I would agree for the most part. Running 8s can get you another 5-10 mph, but at a cost of weight, size, and cost.
Ideally just speaking about electronics and LiPos…. potential max wattage output (the real work being done) it is better to run higher voltage and lower amps.

The real limitation is the ESCs that we have available. This is why 6s seems to work so well on them. The motors like the TP4070 are capable of much more. The guys like Nic Case (202 mph record holder) had a custom made esc running 12s. Similar for the SAW out rigger boat record was done on a custom made ESC.
I agree regarding what you say about 6S vs 8S due to size and weight. I associate the additional weight of 8S with higher amp loads as a consequence. What you say makes perfect sense.
 
Can someone tell me exactly why a perfectly good battery that's 4s ballooned on me with my set up on the talion,loads of power for ten minutes and very sloq in a second ,now I only run the 6s
Bad quality control most likely.
You can "stress" the cells by over heating or over discharging them beyond what they are engineered for. Most of the time it is just bad quality that is the issue.

I only run Turnigy LiPos because I feel their quality is top notch against other options.
I agree regarding what you say about 6S vs 8S due to size and weight. I associate the additional weight of 8S with higher amp loads as a consequence. What you say makes perfect sense.
I love to see Castle release a surface ESC made to run 12s now that we have vehicles like the Limitless that have space for 2 packs and a large esc. The ESC would be fine to only output 180 amps given the higher voltage.

6s example
25v * 300 amps = 7,500 watts

12s example
50v = 180 amps = 9,000 watts
 
Can someone tell me exactly why a perfectly good battery that's 4s ballooned on me with my set up on the talion,loads of power for ten minutes and very sloq in a second ,now I only run the 6s
Insufficient C and/or mah capacity on that 4S. That happened to me also. My 4s gens-ace-r-spam hard case split the case from swelling. (7000mah,60c/120c rated). Two of them. I run 6S now. I don't believe gearing was my issue. I still run those gens-ace-r-spam though in my other rigs. no problem. Swell went down after is discharged them and let them rest a day or so and repeaked, then storage mode them. The swelling went down and the cases were closed enough to tape them up. Its strange that my gens-ace-r-spam's have way better ratings than my 6S HRB 6000mah at 50C. Its all about the higher volts.(y)
 
Insufficient C and/or mah capacity on that 4S. That happened to me also. My 4s gens-ace-r-spam hard case split the case from swelling. (7000mah,60c/120c rated). Two of them. I run 6S now. I don't believe gearing was my issue. I still run those gens-ace-r-spam though in my other rigs. no problem. Swell went down after is discharged them and let them rest a day or so and repeaked, then storage mode them. The swelling went down and the cases were closed enough to tape them up. Its strange that my gens-ace-r-spam's have way better ratings than my 6S HRB 6000mah at 50C. Its all about the higher volts.(y)
Thank you, it was a 40c rating
 
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