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New firmware released for the s1 pro to print at 160mms without clipper. Are you able to use the s1 pro MB in the S1?

View attachment 332688

Since I Don't own the E3S1 PRO..
Just the basic S1, I decided to look at what's available for its firmware...

Well what do you know!
it has had this Updated firmware with ALL those New features since June of this year!!
with the Faster print speed of 160mm/s !!!
(Without the need for Sonic Pad or Klipper.)

And I've been stupidly putsying a long all this time 🤦‍♂️
Screenshot_20231119-223853.png


I can kick myself!!!!
 
Since I Don't own the E3S1 PRO..
Just the basic S1, I decided to look at what's available for its firmware...

Well what do you know!
it has had this Updated firmware with ALL those New features since June of this year!!
with the Faster print speed of 160mm/s !!!
(Without the need for Sonic Pad or Klipper.)

And I've been stupidly putsying a long all this time 🤦‍♂️
View attachment 332815

I can kick myself!!!!
Only reason I knew about it was I was checking the Reddit pages for new 3D printers and finally got around to replacing the broken SD card slot on the MB to allow to me to the upgrade. Benefit of being up at 4am with sick kids. Haha. I just did the update myself. I am very pleased just with the small things I have seen already. I'm very happy it now allows me to set the Z offeset but .01 of a decimal. Previously it was only by .10 of an adjustment and for some reason that really bothered me. Also looks like they have sort of new leveling thing. Have to play around with it some more. Interface also looks cleaner on the display.

So far very pleased Time to benchy test.


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Only reason I knew about it was I was checking the Reddit pages for new 3D printers and finally got around to replacing the broken SD card slot on the MB to allow to me to the upgrade. Benefit of being up at 4am with sick kids. Haha. I just did the update myself. I am very pleased just with the small things I have seen already. I'm very happy it now allows me to set the Z offeset but .01 of a decimal. Previously it was only by .10 of an adjustment and for some reason that really bothered me. Also looks like they have sort of new leveling thing. Have to play around with it some more. Interface also looks cleaner on the display.

So far very pleased Time to benchy test.


View attachment 332820View attachment 332823View attachment 332824

Either way..
Thank You for sharing and letting me know of the firmware update. I don't think I would have bothered to Ever look... til another 4-5 years has gone by.. 🤪


And those do look like nifty features.
I'll update my printer and give them a spin. 👍
 
Either way..
Thank You for sharing and letting me know of the firmware update. I don't think I would have bothered to Ever look... til another 4-5 years has gone by.. 🤪


And those do look like nifty features.
I'll update my printer and give them a spin. 👍
Well it seems the update did something to the way I perform my bed leveling...

After performing the latest update I am having some slight issues with bed leveling. I have set my bed leveling following the guides from Creality for the past year but for some reason now when I run it I get different results. When I run the Aux Level to start the bed leveling process the Extruder is way higher than the print bed, at the point where the print nozzle is over 5 mm away from the print bed. Showing this I added some spacer to the bed to lift it up. I ran the Aux level again and still it was a little better but at -4.95mm Z offset. I tried setting the mesh from here by moving around the print bed and adjusting the spring / silicone spacers. When I had all the corners set for manual bed adjustment I ran the auto level. Auto level ran and then at the end it pushed down the print bed down really hard after it was completed. I had to manually adjust the Z offset to -2.85mm. Seems like quite a difference from when I originally ran the ABL. Is this normal? I'm just kind of confused on what the leveling is doing.

When I previously did the auto leveling I would run the aux level. Make sure all 4 corners are good and then run the auto level and the auto level would return to nearly the same Z spot and not try to push my bed down.

Hope this make sense. Seems like the firmware update changed the way the ABL is performed.
 
Well it seems the update did something to the way I perform my bed leveling...

After performing the latest update I am having some slight issues with bed leveling. I have set my bed leveling following the guides from Creality for the past year but for some reason now when I run it I get different results. When I run the Aux Level to start the bed leveling process the Extruder is way higher than the print bed, at the point where the print nozzle is over 5 mm away from the print bed. Showing this I added some spacer to the bed to lift it up. I ran the Aux level again and still it was a little better but at -4.95mm Z offset. I tried setting the mesh from here by moving around the print bed and adjusting the spring / silicone spacers. When I had all the corners set for manual bed adjustment I ran the auto level. Auto level ran and then at the end it pushed down the print bed down really hard after it was completed. I had to manually adjust the Z offset to -2.85mm. Seems like quite a difference from when I originally ran the ABL. Is this normal? I'm just kind of confused on what the leveling is doing.

When I previously did the auto leveling I would run the aux level. Make sure all 4 corners are good and then run the auto level and the auto level would return to nearly the same Z spot and not try to push my bed down.

Hope this make sense. Seems like the firmware update changed the way the ABL is performed.

Bummer!
That's typical with a firmware change.. it erases All your previous adjustments/calibrations to your printer...

I'm taking the family out to the park..
Will look into this issue with you once we get back.

I know I'll have to go through my PID calibrations after the update myself...
 
@PeighDay

We're back from the park..
Need to feed the hungry kiddos.

Will be ready to help afterwards..



Why don't you copy and paste the above issues to a new thread and we'll try and solve it there.
👌
 
So is the consensus that the best value printer out of the box is the Bambu Labs P1S?

I don't see myself needing the AMS... If I do a multicolor I don't mind changing the filaments as necessary.

Looks like current pricing is 600$ without AMS and $850 with.

Tough Call, any solid options in the $300 range? Direct Drive, something decent for TPU and the occasional ABS (I can build an enclosure).
 
So is the consensus that the best value printer out of the box is the Bambu Labs P1S?

I don't see myself needing the AMS... If I do a multicolor I don't mind changing the filaments as necessary.

Looks like current pricing is 600$ without AMS and $850 with.

Tough Call, any solid options in the $300 range? Direct Drive, something decent for TPU and the occasional ABS (I can build an enclosure).
I have used the bambu X1C at work for a while now, and even though I didn't think I needed the ams, I see I could use it. Not only for different material, but this printer prints so fast, that it will run out of filament on a 12h print. So if I start a 16h print, I have to change filament when I show up for work the day after, and resume the print. With ams I could load up 2 slots with same material, and when it runs out of the first spool, it resumes on the second by itself.
 
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