What's your "budget" LiPo of choice?

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Depending on what you have, be careful. It's suprising how little it takes to kill a car battery to the point that it just clicks when you go to leave. I did that once... $900 later to fix a stupid HVAC actuator in my car from it freaking out when jumping it... now I don't charge much when the engine is off.
 
What would be better to use in say a Kraton 1 x 6s or 2 x 3s..??

And how much actual difference would there be between a 5000mAh and 6000mAh in runtime..??
 
What would be better to use in say a Kraton 1 x 6s or 2 x 3s..??

And how much actual difference would there be between a 5000mAh and 6000mAh in runtime..??
The batteries is kind of a personal preference. I use 2x3S because my other trucks run saddle trays. I ran 2x2s until recently and just started 6S in the outcast, but stuck with the 2x3S in case I want to unleash hell on my erevo and savage flux.

Something to think about is the charger. 1x6S 5000mah requires a charger capable of at least 5A and 125watts to charge at 1C (111watts, but they are usually 125). A dual charger for 3S needs 5A x 55watts to charge at 1C for both ports.

The difference for me with 4S between 2x7200mah and 2x9000mah has been about 2-4 minutes of run time. So, I would assume 5000 vs 6000 would be relatively less at 1 to 2 minutes.
 
The batteries is kind of a personal preference. I use 2x3S because my other trucks run saddle trays. I ran 2x2s until recently and just started 6S in the outcast, but stuck with the 2x3S in case I want to unleash hell on my erevo and savage flux.

Something to think about is the charger. 1x6S 5000mah requires a charger capable of at least 5A and 125watts to charge at 1C (111watts, but they are usually 125). A dual charger for 3S needs 5A x 55watts to charge at 1C for both ports.

The difference for me with 4S between 2x7200mah and 2x9000mah has been about 2-4 minutes of run time. So, I would assume 5000 vs 6000 would be relatively less at 1 to 2 minutes.

So basically my run time from 5000 to 6000 = not worth the extra cost for 6000 vs run time..
As for charger I'm good, just recently got an ISDT T6 Lite that tiny thing packs 600w..!! ?
 
So basically my run time from 5000 to 6000 = not worth the extra cost for 6000 vs run time..
As for charger I'm good, just recently got an ISDT T6 Lite that tiny thing packs 600w..!! ?
Nice. I just got the q6 pro as a second charger to use in my car when I'm out bashing. Should be here tomorrow.
 
So I have my first Arrma Kraton all checked over and ready to go...except for a battery. Have only run 3s so looking to jump to 6s. Don't worry, I'm a cautious driver and know how to throttle. Batteries!! There's an abundance of I'm, but there's no comparison to experience. I'm looking for a lipo 6s, 5000 mAh, 50c+, ic5 battery.
maxAmps are expensive. Why? Are they worth the extra $100?
Dynamite, Spektra?
I found the following brands for $80 on Amazon...HRB, Zeee, Hoovo. Any warnings on these? Not as concerned with long life as I am if any tend to get volatile. Basically if I can get cheaper Batts that may not last as long and put that money towards a Typhon I'd rather do that than buy a $200 battery that may last longer. However, if the cheap ones tend to combust and aren't safe then I don't want that either.
Can anyone give me the skinny?
 
For me, I have enough so I can go nonstop as long as my trucks and my feet and back hold out. ;)

When I go out, I take 2 trucks. A 1/10 that uses a single 3S pack and a 1/8th that uses 2 x 2S (soon to be 2x3S) packs. I have a 2x15A charger in my car. So, I drive to a skate park/bmx track (that's 40 minutes away), bash one set of packs in the big truck and 1 pack in the little. After running the little, I start the car, then put the first set of big truck packs on the charger. Then I fumble about and put the fresh batteries in both the big and little truck, close the trunk, drive to the next destination (20 minute drive and a stop for coffee and to dispose of used coffee).

Usually by the time I reach the second park the first packs I started charging at the last park are done and the single 1/10 pack has cooled, then it goes on the charger and I start all over again. Then to the next bash site... and the next. I have 4 or 5 and they are all at least 15-20 minutes from each other. At the end of the day, I've driven 90-120 miles and bashed for 5-6 hours constant.

Which is usually roughly an 8-10 hour since I left my house bash day.

So, you get enough packs that fits what YOU do and what you want to do. If 2 or 3 gets you by, that's great. If it takes 10, then it takes 10.

Typically, I have a fresh/new pair for my big trucks that sit unused and a spare 3S for my little trucks that sits unused. Then if I have a pack drop a cell or something, I have spares at home for the next bash day and I can get more on order. It works best if you have only a couple battery types, which now I'm retrofitting/working towards having all 3S packs vs all 2S packs. I get enough 3S packs to run in matched pairs in my big trucks and 2 or 3 for my small trucks as they both use the same size. My big and little trucks don't share battery footprints... so now I'm trying to buy 3S that fit all 3 of my big trucks and I can make 3S that fit my smalls out of my old 2S packs.

Basically, I'm never out of batteries.

I have to say... electric requires a lot more planning than nitro did... lol! With nitro, throw the gallon in the bag and go. A couple spare NiMH AA's for the heater and a small charger for the receiver pack or a spare one and your good all day long. Now it seems I plan my days around charge times and cool down cycles for packs.

This is as organized as I've seen. Well thought out; well planned. Had I been this bright when I decided to start all this RC stuff, I'd be in better shape at the bank.
Lipos don't sell and I have countless. racing drones, toy drones, small trucks, airplanes... it's crazy what I've lost now in redundancy but still have every pack I ever bought or was included. Worthless these packs are online and I have no local RC friends whatsoever. lol ....or I'd try to unload or trade with them...lol
Its a damn moment for me here. :confused:
 
So I have my first Arrma Kraton all checked over and ready to go...except for a battery. Have only run 3s so looking to jump to 6s. Don't worry, I'm a cautious driver and know how to throttle. Batteries!! There's an abundance of I'm, but there's no comparison to experience. I'm looking for a lipo 6s, 5000 mAh, 50c+, ic5 battery.
maxAmps are expensive. Why? Are they worth the extra $100?
Dynamite, Spektra?
I found the following brands for $80 on Amazon...HRB, Zeee, Hoovo. Any warnings on these? Not as concerned with long life as I am if any tend to get volatile. Basically if I can get cheaper Batts that may not last as long and put that money towards a Typhon I'd rather do that than buy a $200 battery that may last longer. However, if the cheap ones tend to combust and aren't safe then I don't want that either.
Can anyone give me the skinny?

I myself have used Turnigy/Hobbyking batteries and find them to be really good value $ vs power.. Plenty of people on here seem to rate the HRB's and personally am thinking of giving them a try.
I would rather a cheaper 6s battery because if it goes wrong gets damaged in crash etc its less cost to replace..??
Currently running 2 x3s because I have some 3s cars..? also Turnigy.
 
This is as organized as I've seen. Well thought out; well planned. Had I been this bright when I decided to start all this RC stuff, I'd be in better shape at the bank.
Lipos don't sell and I have countless. racing drones, toy drones, small trucks, airplanes... it's crazy what I've lost now in redundancy but still have every pack I ever bought or was included. Worthless these packs are online and I have no local RC friends whatsoever. lol ....or I'd try to unload or trade with them...lol
Its a damn moment for me here. :confused:
I kind of treat lipo's like fuel. I try not to keep too many more than I use as they may not have a good shelf life, as in years on the shelf may be bad. So, just buying 10, then cycling 4 of them for a season may not make sense. Also, companies come out with higher capacity/c-rate all the time. I tried making it so everything ran the same thing, but I got frustrated with 2S on my small trucks. Luckily, I was able to disassemble/build 3S packs out of my old 2S and they fit. However, they are too big to fit in my big trucks. So, odds are, I'll end up with 3S pairs for big trucks and single 3S for my smalls by the end of this year. I have 4 newer 7400mah 2S packs that I'll likely break down and make 2x3S out of while having the 4th remaining 2S pack to be a spare in case one of them drop a cell, since I ran them all the same in the same trucks the same number of cycles, they should all be relatively well matched.

I'll have to regear the ERBE and savage flux for 6S, then dial the power down via the ESC and EPA on the remote so I don't beat up their drive train too bad.

To be honest, I'm fully content bashing my outcast, stampede and eJato, so the savage flux and ERBE can just sit on the shelf. Unless I find some more places where less speed/big air is still fun, then I'll break those out.
 
Anyone use these batteries? I have heard of hrb before but didnt know they made graphene batteries.
36116
 
For the 3s models, if you ran a 3s 5000mah 60c would the discharge of 60c be to much?
 
No, the more the better. I don't think there is a maximum limit for C rating. Just a minimum. Arrma says 35c I think but I don't use anything below 50c. Oops, the 35c minimum is for the 6s models. don't know if it's the same for the 3s models.
 
The C rating of a pack dictates only what it can safely supply. The esc/motor dictates how much of that is used. If you had 1000C packs (don't exist, just an example) your 30C esc/motor won't pull any more out of it than 30C.

It's just better than you buy beyond what your motor/esc will pull so your packs last longer and don't meltdown on you. I usually go for 50C+ and it seems to work out ok for me with what I do.
 
The C rating of a pack dictates only what it can safely supply. The esc/motor dictates how much of that is used. If you had 1000C packs (don't exist, just an example) your 30C esc/motor won't pull any more out of it than 30C.

It's just better than you buy beyond what your motor/esc will pull so your packs last longer and don't meltdown on you. I usually go for 50C+ and it seems to work out ok for me with what I do.
Thanks for clearing up my confusion, fully understand now ?
 
When I got into this hobby about a year ago, I quickly found out that cost can be a barrier to entry if you make bad purchases and bad decisions. When I decided to make the switch to LiPo batteries, I did a ton of research on "budget" LiPo batteries on various online forums. I was looking for a battery that was reliable, good quality, and one that would not break the bank. With that being said, I decided on 2 suppliers: SPC Racing Batteries and SMC Racing Batteries. I run a 5000mAh, 50C, 2S SPC Racing LiPo ($33) in my Fury BLX and could not be happier with the performance. I also run a pair of 2500mAh, 50C, 2S SPC Racing LiPos ($20 each) in my mini E-Revo and a 5000mAh, 50C, 3S SMC Racing LiPo ($40) in my Axial Yeti.

So, what's your battery of choice? Hopefully this thread can help out someone who is just getting into the hobby or someone who is looking for a different pack to try.
For my Traxxas rustler vxl I like to run the gensacearespammers 5000mah 100c racing series 2 cell LiPo or when I want to go fast I use my Venom 3 cell lipo. But when it comes to my arrma kraton I like to run two 3s Dynamite 5000mah 50c LiPO batteries. But I would love to try SMC batteries and power hobby batteries because I really need to get a single 6s pack so that I don't only have one option and have to charge my batteries before I run my kraton again. And the dynamite batteries are not really budget-friendly ,they're not extremely expensive but by no means are they cheap so I would love to find a high-quality battery in 6s lipo that has a great price.
 
Ran my new HRB 5000 mAh 50c 6s lipo yesterday for the first time. Based on video recording time, I ran about 17 minutes before damage forced me to stop. Checked the voltage when I got home, and all 6 cells still had 3.76 volts or better. I imagine this would mean there's still a lot of run time left, which is very appealing. I'll time the remainder on the next outing this afternoon. It took 45 minutes to charge from storage when they arrived, using my Hitec RDX1 pro set to 10A. I charged at 2c, but need to confirm if the battery specs will allow me to continue to do so.
 
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