Wheel keeps coming off

[N.Mango]

IMO....People lose the same left (if looking from front) rear wheel. Its not a Arrma thing, its an RC thing. 1/10th scale RC's have locking nuts holding the wheel on and on top of that it doesn't have the mass to turn that locknut. Now you take a 17mm nut and tighten it up with some locktight and youre good to go...or so you thought. There goes your tire same one every time! If there was equality between the front and rear left, both would keep coming off. The industry in general needs to make the left side (again looking from the front), reverse thread. The reason (imo) the same tire comes off is because the extreme amount of sudden and powerful torque spinning in the way of loosening the nut. The front rarely happens because the front lifts off the ground enough to not put pressure on the nut to undo itself even if its not a wheelie. So much posts on here and Im new to the forum so if this has been discussed before I apologize for bringing it up again. Now this is just my theory and I could be 100% wrong on this but I feel if the left side had reverse thread then tires flying off would be less frequent....???????????????

like the floor fan in your house.

 

[Yas]

 

[N.Mango]

LMFAO!!! You never noticed that the part of a house fan that holds the fan on is reverse threaded?

 

[N.Mango]

BEST REPLY I HAVE GOTTEN SO FAR ON THIS FORUM!!!
I have admitted to having all kinds of thoughts!

 

[Dan B.]

Back in the day, English sports cars with the real-deal knock-off wire wheels had left hand threads on the left for the same reason. As did the track cars with knock-offs. To my knowledge, the track cars still do.
Many, many left side hubs and wheels had to be replaced due to American owners thinking they were seized and grabbing a breaker bar the size of Cleveland and trying the old “lefty loosie” thing. Seems a lot of people never noticed the arrows on the hubs.

 

[N.Mango]

Back in the day, English sports cars with the real-deal knock-off wire wheels had left hand threads on the left for the same reason. As did the track cars with knock-offs. To my knowledge, the track cars still do.
Many, many left side hubs and wheels had to be replaced due to American owners thinking they were seized and grabbing a breaker bar the size of Cleveland and trying the old “lefty loosie” thing. Seems a lot of people never noticed the arrows on the hubs.

I started this thread because it happens to me just as it happens to a lot of people. And its always the left side. Then it got me thinking about (of all things) a house fan. While the fan is spinning its keeping the nut thing tight. And thats just for a fan. Now we take these over powered RC's and there you go...wheels flying off. I have even used red lock tight and have wheels come off. But in all fairness I went easy with that red stuff! haha

 

[AIan]

You could always drill a small hole through the nut and use safety wire if it happens too much

 

[Kylerc]

I think i had maybe 3 cases of angry wheels flying off my rcs. Having reverse threads is a good idea but i don't have enough problems with it to want to deal with reverse thread. Make sure you use serrated wheel nuts they help a lot.

 

[Grimbles]

And then just swap everything around before using reverse. Love it

 

[Adiabatic]

The original version of the HPI Savage had reverse threaded axles on one side as an effort to address the problem you've described, but it didn't really work noticeably better than the status quo and they abandoned it after a few years. The overall design was poor: the nuts were too small and didn't have enough area on the flange to keep them from backing off on either side.

Personally, I just check wheel nuts before and after each run and have only ever lost a handful, not concentrated on either side.

Keep in mind that when braking the forces are reversed: While the nut has a small amount of inertia that will apply a counterclockwise torque on the nut when torque is applied in a clockwise direction to the drivetrain, when braking the inertia of the nut will produce a clockwise (tightening) torque on the nut as torque is applied in a counterclockwise direction to the drivetrain. On the other side of the car these are reversed and you get a clockwise (tightening) torque while accelerating and a counterclockwise (loosening) torque while braking. So the relationship between forces and loosening of the nuts is not clear.

 

[SrC]

I alway kept a wheel wrench in my pocket whenever bashing. It travels with my Temp gun, and Lipo checker. Also keep a small bag with tools in my car trunk.
I check wheel nuts every single outing and during running.
It has so rarely happened with all my rigs, that I don't consider it as anything more than user error if it does happen.
Worn out wheel hexes at the hubs contribute to this also. Overtightening even damages the wheels, crushes them to the point that the serrated nuts don't remain tight any longer. The wheels are technically bricked at some point. TL is a bandaid and offers some insurance.. And if it works for you, go for it. I tried that and have ruined hex adapters before when they are alloy. I try not to use any TL on Alloy Nuts and adapters. They can seize completely and wont come off without damage. Been there. Metal on metal wheel nuts works. I do that with my Crawler wheels. A Different animal. Metal on metal. And the wheels are metal also.

Back in the day, English sports cars with the real-deal knock-off wire wheels had left hand threads on the left for the same reason. As did the track cars with knock-offs. To my knowledge, the track cars still do.
Many, many left side hubs and wheels had to be replaced due to American owners thinking they were seized and grabbing a breaker bar the size of Cleveland and trying the old “lefty loosie” thing. Seems a lot of people never noticed the arrows on the hubs.

My '69 Dodge Charger had left hand threads from the Factory on one side . And yes many repair shops have ruined them. Snapping them off 50% of the time. Even if I mentioned it to the shop. Like when at tire shops and buying a new set of tires. It sucked.
The studs even had markings as a reminder. I just ended up replacing all the wheel studs with Righties.

Wish I still had that Charger It was mint. Now these days worth some coin. Mine had all the Mopar Certified "Direct Connection "goodies on it.
If you are a Mopar guy....

 

[Dan B.]

I alway kept a wheel wrench in my pocket whenever bashing. It travels with my Temp gun, and Lipo checker. Also keep a small bag with tools in my car trunk.
I check wheel nuts every single outing and during running.
It has so rarely happened with all my rigs, that I don't consider it as anything more than user error if it does happen.
Worn out wheel hexes at the hubs contribute to this also. Overtightening even damages the wheels, crushes them to the point that the serrated nuts don't remain tight any longer. The wheels are technically bricked at some point. TL is a bandaid and offers some insurance.. And if it works for you, go for it. I tried that and have ruined hex adapters before when they are alloy. I try not to use any TL on Alloy Nuts and adapters. They can seize completely and wont come off without damage. Been there. Metal on metal wheel nuts works. I do that with my Crawler wheels. A Different animal. Metal on metal. And the wheels are metal also.

My '69 Dodge Charger had left hand threads from the Factory on one side . And yes many repair shops have ruined them. Snapping them off 50% of the time. Even if I mentioned it to the shop. Like when at tire shops and buying a new set of tires. It sucked.
The studs even had markings as a reminder. I just ended up replacing all the wheel studs with Righties.

Wish I still had that Charger It was mint. Now these days worth some coin. Mine had all the Mopar Certified "Direct Connection "goodies on it.
If you are a Mopar guy....

My first car was a Dodge Dart Swinger (2-door) that some drunken good old boy drove into the Concho River in San Angelo, TX. It had a 340 in it, and I acquired it from a police impound sale for the balance of what it cost the department to pull it out of the river. I think it was around $70.00 in about 1979. A few rattle cans of flat black paint, a lot of work flushing everything out, and some hard earned Direct Connection parts later and BOOM! It never would go down the road completely straight, but I had some great times in that car. I haven’t heard “Direct Connection” In probably 40+ years. Thanks for jogging the memory! Good times, man.

EDIT: I just thought about what I wrote, and it sure makes this hobby seem EXPENSIVE! I already have many times the amount I spent on that car in my Mojave, and that probably includes gas! And my Mojave never got me la*d. In fact, I tend to sleep on the couch because of it. Dammit, I think I might be in the wrong hobby…

 

[N.Mango]

And then just swap everything around before using reverse. Love it

The "Keep in mind that when braking the forces are reversed" was a much better way of putting it than you being an A$$ about it.

 

[y noT]

Sometimes with the 3s it's best to make sure the hex inside the wheel shafts are tight in the outer shaft tube. I've had wheels fly off from that little hex inside coming out. The hex stays in there thank goodness. Ran th typhon today and was going to tighten and thought I'd be ok hasn't happened in a min. NOPE wheel passed me by. First time it happens it throws you off because the wheel nut and all stil together and wondering how the crud????