Kraton Wheel wobble and creak from suspensions

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Theofanis

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Greece
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Kraton EXB
Hello there!
I encountered the following issues with my kraton and I am sending you 2 videos, in the first one, as you can see, the rear right wheel seems to go a little right to left when it turns... I checked the tire, it is very well glued, and with my hand if I move the wheel to the right on the left, it doesn't look unscrewed like many in the "wobble" videos, so….maybe wobble I need to unscrew the wheel to see?
* he did it to me from the first time I took it out of the box... (that is, a week ago, Kraton exb box)


Also, after bashing in the dirt , I saw various videos showing how you can clean your rc car with a pressure washer and maybe a little careful water, something I haven't done after 3 times in the dirt :happy:, with the result that, as you can see in the video, the suspensions are creaking... maybe with a little air and water they will be cleaned, is there any special liquid we can pour?

 
NEVER pressure wash any RC rig. I don't even use water as part of my cleaning regimen after a bash. I use a paint brush and a leaf blower to dust her off for the next bash. Only Use water if I plan on a complete part by part tear down, changing out all my BB's etc. I may use water in this case to clean out any heavy mud and dirt. So disassembly/wrenching is cleaner to work on.
There are so many metal pivot points that probably got rusted IMHO. You need to start with the Hinge pins IMHO. Also, the 4 Pivot balls at the front hubs may squeak form dirt ingress. They start to bind, hindering Steering throw. Tear it down if the noise bothers you. Something you live with if you like using a water or pressure washer method.
BTW, all the Electrics are NOT WP like they say! Many RC YT'ers will show you the wrong way to clean a rig. Much misinformation out there. I am not a follower. Been doing this for 35+ years.
And Chromium BB's will absolutely rust out when they get wet. I don't even run my rigs in the water or mud for this reason. But we all RC differently I guess. Been there.
You have some wrenching ahead of you.:rolleyes:
RC rigs do not NEED to become perfectly clean after every RC bash. A water bath just works against you. Sure Looks nice and new again, BUT just ruins the rig.
Your Diff Bulkheads are probably even filled with water.(n) NG.
:cool:
 
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Edit.

The wobbling wheel is just bent at the hub IMHO. You have a bad wheel. Drive as is . These are just bashers. I have recieved horribly bent/wobbly NEW wheels out the box. HH sent me a new pair under warranty. Call HH and ask for a replacement under warranty. Sometimes packaging bends them.
BTW, I Balance my wheels with a TA wheel balancer and HOBBY Clay. Helps greatly.
I break in the wheels/tires first to let the foams settle in place, then I balance them. After at least one pack in.
Many don't do this for basher rigs. I do because I been doing this since my track days and also for my On-Road speed run rigs. If your rigs go faster than 35+ MPH, Balancing matters IMHO. No matter the type of rig in question. The larger the wheel and tire, usually the more weight you need for balancing. Large MT tires can be very out of balance and causes undue drivetrain Vibration, witnessed on the bench with the wheels spinning under fast throttle. You will see extreme vibration where the wheels are very unbalanced. This translates to poor driveability IMHO. Balancing will remove 95%-100% of vibration with some patience. Scale car wheels get balanced. Why not balance RC wheels.
My spin.

Edited.
 
Last edited:
Edit.

The wobbling wheel is just bent at the hub IMHO. You have a bad wheel. Drive as is . These are just bashers. I have recieved horribly bent/wobbly NEW wheels out the box. HH sent me a new pair under warranty. Call HH and ask for a replacement under warranty. Sometimes packaging bends them.
BTW, I Balance my wheels with a TA wheel balancer and HOBBY Clay. Helps greatly.
I break in the wheels/tires first to let the foams settle in place, then I balance them. After at least one pack in.
Many don't do this for basher rigs. I do because I been doing this since my track days and also for my On-Road speed run rigs. If your rigs go faster than 35+ MPH, Balancing matters IMHO. No matter the type of rig in question. The larger the wheel and tire, usually the more weight you need for balancing. Large MT tires can be very out of balance and causes undue drivetrain Vibration, witnessed on the bench with the wheels spinning under fast throttle. You will see extreme vibration where the wheels are very unbalanced. This translates to poor driveability IMHO. Balancing will remove 95%-100% of vibration with some patience. Scale car wheels get balanced. Why not balance RC wheels.
My spin.

Edited.
Well, good, but I think I’m gonna do the warranty process cuz arrma just reply me the same, I have a defective wheel and need to contact with my dealer to replace it, therefore very useful informations, I almost didn't know it thanks you!
 
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HH will send you a Retail pair of wheels if you go Warranty through HH directly. No need to give the old wheel back to anyone including your LHS. It is still a usable BACKUP wheel FWIW. HH doesn't need or want the bent one back. Food for thought.
Your LHS may take the bent wheel and replace it it with "One" and keep the other. Been there before.
The LHS warranty route just adds a layer of time involved to replacing the wheel. Or any warranty part.

>But being in EU, going directly to The LHS is usually the only way to get a HH warranty unfortnately.<

Here in the States, we can deal direct with HH.
Food for thought.
Your call.
Bash on.
:cool:
 
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