Outcast Where to reinforce body?

[AlbaRC]

Just picked up a new Outcast EXB. I'm going to reinforce the body with shoe goo and drywall tape but I hate working with the stuff so would love some tips on where the body is the weakest, save me doing the whole thing.

 

[GTRider610]

Honestly I’d recommend doing the thing because you never know how how it’s going to land. At minimal I’d do around the body mounts and the cage mount as well as the front and back.

 

[Tex Koder]

Just picked up a new Outcast EXB. I'm going to reinforce the body with shoe goo and drywall tape but I hate working with the stuff so would love some tips on where the body is the weakest, save me doing the whole thing.

If you don't like the smell and/or the mess with working shoe goo, then a good alternative would be to use heavy duty Gorilla tape >

Easier, cleaner, a lot less messy.

 

[AIan]

I did the drywall tape and shoogoo on my kraton exb all under the shell with a bit extra around the hood and bed of the truck. I think the outcast has week spots between where the windshield meets the hood, and the tailgat, I may be wrong since I don’t have one, but have read it somewhere. I painted mine black afterwards like this

I did more trim work after these pics

 

[AlbaRC]

If you don't like the smell and/or the mess with working shoe goo, then a good alternative would be to use heavy duty Gorilla tape >
View attachment 237149

Easier, cleaner, a lot less messy.

Yeah, I've used Gorilla tape before. Held up quite well. I got an xmaxx recently and I shoe gooed the known problem areas and used Gorilla tape on the rest and has worked really well. Just trying to figure out the known weak spots on the outcast to do the same

 

[Camaroboy383]

Straight across the bottom of the windshield where it meets the back of the hood.. That valley can and will crack all the way across, down the back of the fender flares...

If you hold the body in your hands and lightly compress it front to back you will see it start to fold at the windshield..

All around the rear opening that surrounds the wing mount..

These two areas will usually be the first to start ripping, especially across the bottom of the windshield, I also reinforce the body mount areas as well..

Never cared for the tape or shoe goo methods.. I use flat sheets of poly, cut them up to fit certain areas and use 5200 to adhere them to the body...

Whatever you use, be sure to pad up the center body support on the chassis.. once you start adding thickness the body will no longer sit on the support pad...

 

[AlbaRC]

Straight across the bottom of the windshield where it meets the back of the hood.. That valley can and will crack all the way across, down the back of the fender flares...

If you hold the body in your hands and lightly compress it front to back you will see it start to fold at the windshield..

All around the rear opening that surrounds the wing mount..

These two areas will usually be the first to start ripping, especially across the bottom of the windshield, I also reinforce the body mount areas as well..

Never cared for the tape or shoe goo methods.. I use flat sheets of poly, cut them up to fit certain areas and use 5200 to adhere them to the body...

Whatever you use, be sure to pad up the center body support on the chassis.. once you start adding thickness the body will no longer sit on the support pad...

Thanks man, that's some solid info

 

[KevinC]

Here’s a tip to mitigate the shocks from poking through your hood……..high density foam attached with two sided gorilla tape.

 

[AIan]

Here’s a tip to mitigate the shocks from poking through your hood……..high density foam attached with two sided gorilla tape.

View attachment 237163

Nice I did it like this on my exb

juse made a plastic plate that fit over my body mounts and covers the shock caps

 

[rcaddic88]

These are all good suggestions, here’s my piece:
1) for whatever reason, the kraton and outcast / notorious body’s are made entirely differently. The kraton a thin - ish, unsupported basic lean shell with very little plastic reinforcement tends to crack along the rear bed area of the Truggy shell comes apart worse from there.
‘the outcast‘s get a much thicker lexan, which I believe has to do with it having to form into a much more complicated scale type shape. It also has a goodly amount of plastic skeleton framing, both in the inner cap area and to the rear bed. It’s a much much nicer body then the kratons, across the size spectrum.
‘the thicker lean seams to hold up better in general other then the body area above the upper shock mounts on towers breaking from impact with those nice arrma shock cap protectors. This happens front and rear, with actual round circle areas an inch or so across breaking off in impact area.
‘the other problem area is A weak area in the shell where the front hood area meets the cab. this area isn’t reinforced with the plastic frame and has deep bends to the lean required for the design that tacos significantly enough on impacts to form cracks in the plastic along the entire width the lower windshield area. It happened on my 8s exb outcast body by about a half dozen runs that If I didn’t reinforce it the entire body would have split in two! the body itself looked otherwise excellent. the 8s exb outcast body is my favorite looking rig so I immediately did the shoe goo drywall routine on the entire body with a few strips of .04 thick kydex reinforcement over the actual crack inside. Then I filled the exterior crease on the outside of body where tge crack forms, hoping to reduce movement in the seam where the cracks where. ill try to get some pics.
i find the IC/NOT body’s hold up will if you reinforce properly, but if you aren’t able to do a full shoogoo the use several layers of guerrilla tape under front rear shock towers and in the seam where the windshield and hood meet as well as the usual wheel wells and hood.
as far as foam padding goes, i find it especially helpful on a stunt truck, anything that fills between the body and arrma center support structures will greatly help. I will try to take some pics of my OC 6s basher body so you can see where the plastic breaks on that one,

 

[AlbaRC]

These are all good suggestions, here’s my piece:
1) for whatever reason, the kraton and outcast / notorious body’s are made entirely differently. The kraton a thin - ish, unsupported basic lean shell with very little plastic reinforcement tends to crack along the rear bed area of the Truggy shell comes apart worse from there.
‘the outcast‘s get a much thicker lexan, which I believe has to do with it having to form into a much more complicated scale type shape. It also has a goodly amount of plastic skeleton framing, both in the inner cap area and to the rear bed. It’s a much much nicer body then the kratons, across the size spectrum.
‘the thicker lean seams to hold up better in general other then the body area above the upper shock mounts on towers breaking from impact with those nice arrma shock cap protectors. This happens front and rear, with actual round circle areas an inch or so across breaking off in impact area.
‘the other problem area is A weak area in the shell where the front hood area meets the cab. this area isn’t reinforced with the plastic frame and has deep bends to the lean required for the design that tacos significantly enough on impacts to form cracks in the plastic along the entire width the lower windshield area. It happened on my 8s exb outcast body by about a half dozen runs that If I didn’t reinforce it the entire body would have split in two! the body itself looked otherwise excellent. the 8s exb outcast body is my favorite looking rig so I immediately did the shoe goo drywall routine on the entire body with a few strips of .04 thick kydex reinforcement over the actual crack inside. Then I filled the exterior crease on the outside of body where tge crack forms, hoping to reduce movement in the seam where the cracks where. ill try to get some pics.
i find the IC/NOT body’s hold up will if you reinforce properly, but if you aren’t able to do a full shoogoo the use several layers of guerrilla tape under front rear shock towers and in the seam where the windshield and hood meet as well as the usual wheel wells and hood.
as far as foam padding goes, i find it especially helpful on a stunt truck, anything that fills between the body and arrma center support structures will greatly help. I will try to take some pics of my OC 6s basher body so you can see where the plastic breaks on that one,

Very helpful, thanks man. Photos would also be great

 

[SrC]

I seen most damage at the Rear near the Body posts. And left and right corners of the windshield.
I don't shoogoo any more. A waste of time, effort and $materials$. They still crack no matter what. And you are just adding needless weight. You can spend stupid money doing this. Costing significant considering the price of a replacement body.
I just use Gor. Tape at the body posts and rear lip of the body's bed. I will use Hot Glue and a zip tie along the inner rear edge. It cracks/splits there from rear wing impacts. Good to use a heat gun or Hair dryer to apply the Gor tape. Sticks best.
Now I just use Gor. tape to patch it up as it breaks. Even tried Flex Seal in the can. NG.
I rather just replace the body when it no longer stays on. Cheaper IMHO. These are basher rigs. The D-wall/shoogoo method is useless IMHO. Been there.
I use a PL Brute Armor body for my Kraton. I bash hardest of all my rigs. Moderate big air Etc. I keep the Stocker new body for my shelf.

 

[AlbaRC]

I seen most damage at the Rear near the Body posts. And left and right corners of the windshield.
I don't shoogoo any more. A waste of time, effort and $materials$. They still crack no matter what. And you are just adding needless weight. You can spend stupid money doing this. Costing significant considering the price of a replacement body.
I just use Gor. Tape at the body posts and rear lip of the body's bed. I will use Hot Glue and a zip tie along the inner rear edge. It cracks/splits there from rear wing impacts. Good to use a heat gun or Hair dryer to apply the Gor tape. Sticks best.
Now I just use Gor. tape to patch it up as it breaks.
I rather just replace the body when it no longer stays on. Cheaper IMHO. These are basher rigs. The D-wall/shoogoo method is usueless IMHO. Been there.
I use a PL Brute Armor body for my Kraton. I bash hardest of all my rigs. Moderate big air Etc. I keep the Stocker new body for my shelf.

I know what you mean, I done the shoe goo and drywall on an older Kraton body and it still split. All that effort and it still cracked. I've found finding the known weak spots and using shoe goo in some areas and gorilla tape in others seems to give me best bang for my buck. Just never had an Outcast before and don't really want to find the weaknesses the hard way lol

 

[SrC]

With the OC and Noto bodies they are like double the thickness and more of a Kraton's to begin with. The thinner 6s Kraton bodies get trashed just sneezing at it.
My original V1 Noto body is still running. But Been through like 5 Kraton bodies. Kept the last Red one as a Shelf body and I use the PL Armor body on the Kraton now. Ugly as sin being unpaintable and in white, but being a Basher this PL armor body has not one crack or split on it. It is beat to crap. Just scuffs and scratches.

 

[JustAnOutcast]

Here’s a tip to mitigate the shocks from poking through your hood……..high density foam attached with two sided gorilla tape.

View attachment 237163

Does this damage come from the shock cap protector or the shock nut? I’m going to try a piece of silicone tubing over the nut and wonder where exactly the impact is coming from.

 

[Camaroboy383]

Once the body is forced down it will contact all of it..