Which CNHL LiPo for a Typhon 3s?

[Engineer]

5000 or 5600mAh will be close to optimal compromise between weight and runtime.

This. My happy place is somewhere around 4500-5000 mAh …

 

[Pat_ranch]

5k is about as heavy as my 3s rigs like.

 

[pug]

So, soft case ≤5000mah 50c+ LiPo is what I should get? I want to stay as light as possible. Also, this is my 1000th message!

 

[Kla912000]

Just for reference, I believe the Arrma 3s BLX manual says a minimum of 35c, not 50c. But naturally the higher C rating will perform better.

 

[BonerChamp]

Yea im not buying it.. I know c ratings are a bit off, but u surely don't think a 45c rated lipo performs the same as a 120c rated lipo.. Do u!? Idk maybe im wrong!?

Problem is you cannot make this comparison because there is no common standard to set C ratings between manufacturers. Not even within the same brand. Maybe within the same line of LiPo's (like CNHL G+ 5k comes as 55C and 70C), but that's about it. So a LiPo labeled as 45C and one as 120C could in fact have the exact same C rating or the 120C could even be worse. No way of knowing without a proper, standardised test.

 

[SrC]

Soft case LiPos are fine as long as they are secured well. Think about it. How many 6s and 8s basher use hard case LiPos?

+1.
I don't focus on requiring a hard pack lipo. I get what fits with the best specs. Either HP or soft. Better selection and fit appears most with soft packs.
Hard pack, "Race", packs are required for Sanctioned Racing events if anything. Some better quality Soft packs are lined with aluminum plates or similar, surrounding inside the pack. FWIW.
And Hard packs can still puff up and split the case open. Hard Cases do crack open when bashing at times. Been there.

 

[RC-Dude]

Is there any downside to having cells next to each other (like books in a bookshelf, see first picture below) or over each other (like books stacked) when it comes to bashing the lipos? It seems to me over each other is way safer as the impact on landing goes on to the flat side of the cell (not the side). But I am not sure.

In a hardcase you don't even know which way they lie. It seems to me they do not last as long as soft packs. But is it because soft packs are mostly in the car in a stacked way instead of next to each other?

Looking for Lipos for the 3s Arrma cars but want to be able to have them in series for my 6s rigs. A lot of lipos are just too long with cables to fit in to the battery compartement. But turning the lipo and having the cells next to each other would be possible. Just not sure of that is too much for the cells when they slam down on the side.

Want to move away from hardcase as I want to be able to see the condition of the lipo.

Just testing here with a 4s lipo. Is there to much force on the side of the lipo if installed this way:

I plan to use an aluminium "U"profile to put the battery in so that stones that get stuck between drive shaft and battery don't damage the battery.

Won't fit this way:

Any thoughts on this?

 

[Kla912000]

Is there any downside to having cells next to each other (like books in a bookshelf, see first picture below) or over each other (like books stacked) when it comes to bashing the lipos? It seems to me over each other is way safer as the impact on landing goes on to the flat side of the cell (not the side). But I am not sure.

In a hardcase you don't even know which way they lie. It seems to me they do not last as long as soft packs. But is it because soft packs are mostly in the car in a stacked way instead of next to each other?

Looking for Lipos for the 3s Arrma cars but want to be able to have them in series for my 6s rigs. A lot of lipos are just too long with cables to fit in to the battery compartement. But turning the lipo and having the cells next to each other would be possible. Just not sure of that is too much for the cells when they slam down on the side.

Want to move away from hardcase as I want to be able to see the condition of the lipo.

Just testing here with a 4s lipo. Is there to much force on the side of the lipo if installed this way:

View attachment 188757

I plan to use an aluminium "U"profile to put the battery in so that stones that get stuck between drive shaft and battery don't damage the battery.

Won't fit this way:
View attachment 188759

Any thoughts on this?

The first thing you should worry about is that the battery in your pictures is underrated. Manual says use a battery with a minimum of 35C rating.

 

[RC-Dude]

The C-Ratings are not a problem with the SLS brand. Their numbers are given lower than the real C-rate. I used 20C 5000mAH Lipos on the XMaxx.

Here some test results.

30C at 5800mAH is 174 Amp continous draw. The 3s series will get nowhere there.

One of their series actually give a 10C charge rate.

I think the real problem is that most C-rates are just wrong.

 

[SrC]

The first thing you should worry about is that the battery in your pictures is underrated. Manual says use a battery with a minimum of 35C rating.

+1.............
In general, if your lipos are secure and a decent fit, orientation of the cells whether vertical or horizontal is not any real consideration. They can still distort if they get loose and you have a bad crash. The plastic 4x4 chassis may contribute more to this from chassis flex.
BTW, I found that all hard case lipos are always assembled flat, not vertical in its case. So there is some reasoning behind this??? Doesn't mean you can't orient the lipo vertical however for fit in the rig.

The picture above shows that the lipo shape itself is ok just that the way the wires exit the Lipo makes it a WRONG fit.
Select a lipo that has wires exiting appropriately for that Lipo tray. Exiting center or top is best. A thin lipo, 2s or 3,s would be better if placed flat in you case. Depends on the shape of the lipo. Flat down would just be more secure and move around less. And in theory, you always want weight placed as low and flat as possible for lower center of gravity. In a perfect world. The chance for a lipo ejecting becomes way less when it is flat down. Been there.
I also noticed that lipo may be underrated. (30c) However 5c rating lower than required 35c spec may be splitting hairs?
I always say 50c or higher no matter which lipo you choose. Most packs are this and higher for bashing purposes. Anything lower are usually found in Quad copters from what I have learned. Smaller much lighter models with small motors.
Having softpacks does have the advantage of seeing the physical shape and condition better. A plus. Puffing becomes more aparrent, something to watch for. Also, wire some damage can be repaired more easily.
Impacts will usually get the best of the front and bottom of a lipo. If not secure enough at the front being square and foreward to the front of the lipo tray, this is how you will get damage easily. The chassis/lipo tray becomes much like some hardcase protection would afford, keeping the lipo square to it if secured well enough.

 

[pug]

+1.............
In general, if your lipos are secure and a decent fit, orientation of the cells whether vertical or horizontal is not any real consideration. They can still distort if they get loose and you have a bad crash. The plastic 4x4 chassis may contribute more to this from chassis flex.

The picture above shows that the lipo shape itself is ok just that the way the wires exit the Lipo makes it a WRONG fit.
Select a lipo that has wires exiting appropriately for that Lipo tray. Exiting center or top is best. A thin lipo, 2s or 3,s would be better if placed flat in you case. Depends on the shape of the lipo. Flat down would just be more secure and move around less. And in theory, you always want weight placed as low and flat as possible for lower center of gravity. In a perfect world. The chance for a lipo ejecting becomes way less when it is flat down. Been there.
I also noticed that lipo may be underrated. (30c) However 5c rating lower than required 35c spec may be splitting hairs?
I always say 50c or higher no matter which lipo you choose. Most packs are this and higher for bashing purposes. Anything lower are usually found in Quad copters from what I have learned. Smaller much lighter models with small motors.
Having softpacks does have the advanatge of seeing the physical shape and condition better. A plus.
Impacts will usually get the best of the front and bottom of a lipo. If not secure enough at the front being square and foreward to the front of the lipo tray, this is how you will get damage easily. The chassis/lipo tray becomes much like some hardcase protection would afford, keeping the lipo square to it if secured well enough.

Could I make a custom tray for a softcase to protect it?

 

[SrC]

Yes you can.
I use foam padding under and surrounding the lipo trays in most of my rigs. Sometimes foam blocks as required at the front. Depends on the rig in question.
Just make sure there are no sharp edges or screws that will rupture the lipo!!
Consider where and how most impacts will occur to the lipo.. Where the most damage might occur. The dynamics of motion with impacts.
Food for thought....Velcro straps can even rip/tear apart ejecting your lipo. Been there. They are consumables at some point. There are better reinforced velcro straps out there if you search around. Usually the Quad copter RC crowd use them on custom builds.

 

[pug]

Yes you can.
I use foam padding under and surrounding the lipo trays in most of my rigs. Sometimes foam blocks as required at the front. Depends on the rig in question.
Just make sure there are no sharp edges or screws that will rupture the lipo!!
Consider where and how most impacts will occur to the lipo.. Where the most damage might occur. The dynamics of motion with impacts.
Food for thought....Velcro straps can even rip/tear apart ejecting your lipo. Been there. They are consumables at some point. There are better reinforced velcro straps out there if you search around. Usually the Quad copter RC crowd use them on custom builds.

Ok, so I have some conflicting opinions on what I should get, should I stay hardcase or go softcase in your opinion. I do launch the Typhon around 10 feet into the air, I have some bad nose landings, would the chassis bending cause the softcase LiPo to get destroyed?

 

[SrC]

I don't run 4x4 chassis. But I do know they flex. That is your personal call. Others with 4x4 rigs may have better opinions on this.
Having all 6s rigs and alloy chassis here, I will say that one of my softpack 6s brick lipos has still slightly warped from Big air impacts. I run M2c chassis on 2 of my rigs, they don't flex much if at all. I don't go big air much anymore. Moderate 6 footers is all. That is nothing for my 6s rigs. A walk in the park even in stock trim.
I don't feel that 4x4 rigs were meant for the big 20+foot air that many 6s rigs do. Not just for lipo damage reasons. More for chassis/ suspension/ drivetrain reasons. What I see in videos at least. I could be wrong.

 

[pug]

I don't run 4x4 chassis. But I do know they flex. That is your personal call. Others with 4x4 rigs may have better opionions on this.
Having all 6s rigs and alloy chassis here, I will say that one of my softpack 6s brick lipos has still slightly warped from Big air impacts. I run M2c chassis on 2 of my rigs, they don't flex much if at all. I don't go big air much anymore. Moderate 6 footers is all. That is nothing for my 6s rigs. A walk in the park even in stock trim.
I don't feel that 4x4 rigs were meant for the big 20+foot air that many 6s rigs do. Not just for lipo damage reasons. More for chassis/ suspension/ drivetrain reasons. What I see in videos at least. I could be wrong.

My cousin launched his Granite 3s 15 feet into the air with a bad landing, nothing happened to it except for the body being destroyed.

 

[Pat_ranch]

The only softies I've personally seen go up in smoke were forcefully ejected on pretty bad tomahawks. We've definitely tried harder to break stuff than most. @ABabyEater is my accomplice for most mayhem.

If you line your tray with closed cell foam (I use the 1/8" red lvp underlayment for mine- works great), and wrap your softie with gorilla tape it'll be really hard to damage it in the rc.

 

[ABabyEater]

The only softies I've personally seen go up in smoke were forcefully ejected on pretty bad tomahawks. We've definitely tried harder to break stuff than most. @ABabyEater is my accomplice for most mayhem.

If you line your tray with closed cell foam (I use the 1/8" red lvp underlayment for mine- works great), and wrap your softie with gorilla tape it'll be really hard to damage it in the rc.

can confirm, have ejected a 6S soft pack at 75mph directly into the asphalt from about 3ft in the air (truck GPS'd at 75mph before tumbling liftoff) Gorilla tape works.

 

[pug]

The only softies I've personally seen go up in smoke were forcefully ejected on pretty bad tomahawks. We've definitely tried harder to break stuff than most. @ABabyEater is my accomplice for most mayhem.

If you line your tray with closed cell foam (I use the 1/8" red lvp underlayment for mine- works great), and wrap your softie with gorilla tape it'll be really hard to damage it in the rc.

I’ll print out a driveshaft guard and create a hardcase some how.
Also, would this LiPo work fine? It’s the exact max width, and already has an EC5 soldered on.

 

[Pat_ranch]

Should work fine. I ain't real picky aboot my 3s packs. I'm still slumming some hoovo's I got cheap a year and a half ago.

 

[SrC]

I’ll print out a driveshaft guard and create a hardcase some how.
Also, would this LiPo work fine? It’s the exact max width, and already has an EC5 soldered on.

That lipo looks like the ticket for sure. The main power lead looks like like it won't interfere with fitment. Many like CNHL these days. Just got 2 CNHL 4s Race packs (hard case) for my TLRT. $39. each. AMZ freeship.120c/5600mah. The fit was the best of any Lipo I ever had for a 6s lipo tray. The cell voltage, cell balance, and IR's were spot on for each of them. I just had to solder on my own XT90's. It had T-Plugs, and probably why they had this low price point. I usually do this anyway. I don't care about what connectors come with lipos. The best selection and best prices are achieved in this way. Sometimes I get lucky and find a deal with an XT90 at a great price. But the wrong connector by itself is never a deal breaker when I shop lipos. Fit and specs matter the most. Connectors are just connectors. I know many don't/can't solder. But if you can, this is the best way to shop for lipos..