Which electric screwdriver

[jondilly1974]

Was just hoping it wouldn’t be too much torque for the screws. But it has the 4 settings on it just like the m12. So I’m assuming it would be fine.

It’s going to be too large and heavy to feel any nuance of driving a screw. You are going to strip every screw. If it’s an impact driver, there is no clutch afaik. If it’s a drill/driver, even the lightest clutch setting is going to be overkill. You have two needs. Buy two tools.

 

[JDarby05]

It’s going to be too large and heavy to feel any nuance of driving a screw. You are going to strip every screw. If it’s an impact driver, there is no clutch afaik. If it’s a drill/driver, even the lightest clutch setting is going to be overkill. You have two needs. Buy two tools.

Thanks. I’ll have to look at it a little better but I assumed since everyone has been happy with the m12 1/4” impact driver. I was hoping that the m12 fuel 1/4” setup wouldnt be much different that the m18 fuel 1/4” impact driver setup. They both have 4 speed/power settings. And I believe they both have the same speed/power setting as their first setting. Why I thought it wouldn’t be any different. I plan on breaking screws loose with my hands and zipping them out afterward. Then the same when tightening. Finish with my hand tools.

weight wise the m12 weighs 1.8 pounds and the m18 weighs 2.1 pounds. I most likely wouldn’t notice it lol

 

[jondilly1974]

Thanks. I’ll have to look at it a little better but I assumed since everyone has been happy with the m12 1/4” impact driver. I was hoping that the m12 fuel 1/4” setup wouldnt be much different that the m18 fuel 1/4” impact driver setup. They both have 4 speed/power settings. And I believe they both have the same speed/power setting as their first setting. Why I thought it wouldn’t be any different. I plan on breaking screws loose with my hands and zipping them out afterward. Then the same when tightening. Finish with my hand tools.

weight wise the m12 weighs 1.8 pounds and the m18 weighs 2.1 pounds. I most likely wouldn’t notice it lol

I own almost every M12 Fuel tool. I can tell you the M12 Fuel impact would destroy every single screw in my RCs, let alone the M18 Fuel. My impact has two speeds, but no clutch. My drill/driver with 1/4” quick connect has a clutch, but even that is large and heavy for such small work. Unless you have a K8S, you don’t need M12. Milwaukee just doesn’t make a very good driver for this level of work. Their small weight driver isn’t M12 so there was no good reason to buy it. I really prefer an inline driver for this type of work. You don’t need the torque of a right angled handle. It’s so much easier to use an inline driver with power to do 80% of the work, but then it turn into a handled driver when you release the button. This allows you to manually finish tightening your screws by hand. It also is great for cracking loose screws with thread lock before using power. A simple crack of your wrist will snap most screws free. Then hit the button to pull it out. Do the reverse for putting it back in.

 

[Jaylex]

Thanks. I’ll have to look at it a little better but I assumed since everyone has been happy with the m12 1/4” impact driver. I was hoping that the m12 fuel 1/4” setup wouldnt be much different that the m18 fuel 1/4” impact driver setup. They both have 4 speed/power settings. And I believe they both have the same speed/power setting as their first setting. Why I thought it wouldn’t be any different. I plan on breaking screws loose with my hands and zipping them out afterward. Then the same when tightening. Finish with my hand tools.

weight wise the m12 weighs 1.8 pounds and the m18 weighs 2.1 pounds. I most likely wouldn’t notice it lol

If I remember correctly you can look at their specs on the Milwaukee website and see the preset ratings for each level. It will give you a very good idea of the scale difference.

 

[Vedak]

Was just hoping it wouldn’t be too much torque for the screws. But it has the 4 settings on it just like the m12. So I’m assuming it would be fine.

The trick imo, is not using the drill to tighten things down. Just get it close, and use a hand driver the rest of the way. Personally even for me, my m12 is on the heavy side. I get carpel tunnel real easy, so it saves using hand tools unless I have to. But the weight is noticeable after some time.

Torque wise, its way too much power. But if you only use it to speed up threading in long screws, you'll be fine. However if your actually tightening things with it on an rc car, you'll likely strip or break screws long before the anvil (impact function) actually begins to work. The m18s can easily drive 5" or longer deck/ lag screws.

If your dead set on the m18 line for this application, just don't actually tighten screws with it. Only get it close, and hand drive the rest of the way. Otherwise your going to spend more money replacing parts, than what you saved on the tools. I wouldn't trust those 4 settings in this application, even in the lightest setting I'd say it's way too much.

 

[LMC]

I use this, the clutch is handy for not damaging anything (2-3 seems to be the sweet spot)

 

[JDarby05]

I own almost every M12 Fuel tool. I can tell you the M12 Fuel impact would destroy every single screw in my RCs, let alone the M18 Fuel. My impact has two speeds, but no clutch. My drill/driver with 1/4” quick connect has a clutch, but even that is large and heavy for such small work. Unless you have a K8S, you don’t need M12. Milwaukee just doesn’t make a very good driver for this level of work. Their small weight driver isn’t M12 so there was no good reason to buy it. I really prefer an inline driver for this type of work. You don’t need the torque of a right angled handle. It’s so much easier to use an inline driver with power to do 80% of the work, but then it turn into a handled driver when you release the button. This allows you to manually finish tightening your screws by hand. It also is great for cracking loose screws with thread lock before using power. A simple crack of your wrist will snap most screws free. Then hit the button to pull it out. Do the reverse for putting it back in.

I do have a Kraton 8s. But I figured it would be fine for either because I used my old snap on impact driver before it fried. And I believe it was around the same specs. I don’t use it to break screws lose or to torque them down. I just use the impact after it’s lose or to get screws 3/4 screwed back in. Then I hand tighten it. I have other uses for a impact driver. Why I was curious on everyone else’s opinion on it. Don’t really want to buy 2 new drills but I’ll prob just do it.
Thanks for the advice

The trick imo, is not using the drill to tighten things down. Just get it close, and use a hand driver the rest of the way. Personally even for me, my m12 is on the heavy side. I get carpel tunnel real easy, so it saves using hand tools unless I have to. But the weight is noticeable after some time.

Torque wise, its way too much power. But if you only use it to speed up threading in long screws, you'll be fine. However if your actually tightening things with it on an rc car, you'll likely strip or break screws long before the anvil (impact function) actually begins to work. The m18s can easily drive 5" or longer deck/ lag screws.

If your dead set on the m18 line for this application, just don't actually tighten screws with it. Only get it close, and hand drive the rest of the way. Otherwise your going to spend more money replacing parts, than what you saved on the tools. I wouldn't trust those 4 settings in this application, even in the lightest setting I'd say it's way too much.

That’s what I always do. I just didn’t want to buy a 2nd drill when I can get one to serve both of my needs lol

I use this, the clutch is handy for not damaging anything (2-3 seems to be the sweet spot)

I thought about getting a normal drill like that but they are so big. I like how the impact drills are smaller and easier to fit tight areas. I’m going to do more research though. I might be able to find a small drill that’s a straight electric drill but has an elbow to bed to a 90 degree if needed.
I’m going to look into the drill you posted. Maybe it’s smaller than it looks in the pic. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Kingpin]

I do have a Kraton 8s. But I figured it would be fine for either because I used my old snap on impact driver before it fried. And I believe it was around the same specs. I don’t use it to break screws lose or to torque them down. I just use the impact after it’s lose or to get screws 3/4 screwed back in. Then I hand tighten it. I have other uses for a impact driver. Why I was curious on everyone else’s opinion on it. Don’t really want to buy 2 new drills but I’ll prob just do it.
Thanks for the advice


That’s what I always do. I just didn’t want to buy a 2nd drill when I can get one to serve both of my needs lol


I thought about getting a normal drill like that but they are so big. I like how the impact drills are smaller and easier to fit tight areas. I’m going to do more research though. I might be able to find a small drill that’s a straight electric drill but has an elbow to bed to a 90 degree if needed.
I’m going to look into the drill you posted. Maybe it’s smaller than it looks in the pic. Thanks for the advice.

My vote is for the dewalt dcf601f2. Smaller then an impact.
I use it on my 1/5 Losi and the 1/8 Kraton.
Variable speed(which is important IMO), small(8"x4" compared to the 12.5" gyro), light, quick connect and has multiple clutch settings. Also comes with 2 batteries and a charger.
I'm in the minority as I hated the feel of the gyro.
Also if you look up the specs they don't mention variable speed but I went and checked mine just to be sure and it is.

 

[LMC]

I do have a Kraton 8s. But I figured it would be fine for either because I used my old snap on impact driver before it fried. And I believe it was around the same specs. I don’t use it to break screws lose or to torque them down. I just use the impact after it’s lose or to get screws 3/4 screwed back in. Then I hand tighten it. I have other uses for a impact driver. Why I was curious on everyone else’s opinion on it. Don’t really want to buy 2 new drills but I’ll prob just do it.
Thanks for the advice


That’s what I always do. I just didn’t want to buy a 2nd drill when I can get one to serve both of my needs lol


I thought about getting a normal drill like that but they are so big. I like how the impact drills are smaller and easier to fit tight areas. I’m going to do more research though. I might be able to find a small drill that’s a straight electric drill but has an elbow to bed to a 90 degree if needed.
I’m going to look into the drill you posted. Maybe it’s smaller than it looks in the pic. Thanks for the advice.

It’s a set I got on sale for $189.99, don’t know why they always do 1/2” drill and 3/8” mpact tho, I’d prefer both being the same size.

 

[Rainger40]

Dewalt max bare tool on sale until 24th for %40 off. $59
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-XTR...-in-Cordless-Screwdriver-Tool-Only/1000970056

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Got this one on Amazon to run with the MIP speed tips. Works great at a bargain price. Can flip between inline and pistol setups.

 

[JDarby05]

My vote is for the dewalt dcf601f2. Smaller then an impact.
I use it on my 1/5 Losi and the 1/8 Kraton.
Variable speed(which is important IMO), small(8"x4" compared to the 12.5" gyro), light, quick connect and has multiple clutch settings. Also comes with 2 batteries and a charger.
I'm in the minority as I hated the feel of the gyro.
Also if you look up the specs they don't mention variable speed but I went and checked mine just to be sure and it is.

View attachment 86485

Ended up ordering the drill. They had it w/ 2 batteries and a charger for $119.00. I used a 10% off code and saved more. Think I had $115 after taxes and free shipping

Also went a head and ordered the Milwaukee M18 impact driver and batteries for when I remodel the house. Still wish the Milwaukee would have been alright for the rc stuff too haha.

thanks for posting the model number for this drill. I couldn’t find a screwdriver drill that looked like the impact drills (smaller)

 

[jondilly1974]

I have a second DeWALT gyro driver on the way so I don’t have to change between 2.0 and 2.5 mm tips when wrenching. It really slows you down.

 

[Kingpin]

Ended up ordering the drill. They had it w/ 2 batteries and a charger for $119.00. I used a 10% off code and saved more. Think I had $115 after taxes and free shipping

Also went a head and ordered the Milwaukee M18 impact driver and batteries for when I remodel the house. Still wish the Milwaukee would have been alright for the rc stuff too haha.

thanks for posting the model number for this drill. I couldn’t find a screwdriver drill that looked like the impact drills (smaller)

Glad I could help. I love mine.

 

[olds97_lss]

I own almost every M12 Fuel tool. I can tell you the M12 Fuel impact would destroy every single screw in my RCs, let alone the M18 Fuel. My impact has two speeds, but no clutch. My drill/driver with 1/4” quick connect has a clutch, but even that is large and heavy for such small work. Unless you have a K8S, you don’t need M12. Milwaukee just doesn’t make a very good driver for this level of work. Their small weight driver isn’t M12 so there was no good reason to buy it. I really prefer an inline driver for this type of work. You don’t need the torque of a right angled handle. It’s so much easier to use an inline driver with power to do 80% of the work, but then it turn into a handled driver when you release the button. This allows you to manually finish tightening your screws by hand. It also is great for cracking loose screws with thread lock before using power. A simple crack of your wrist will snap most screws free. Then hit the button to pull it out. Do the reverse for putting it back in.

The normal M12 driver works great for me on my RC's. If I didn't have that, I'd have to quite RC. I just can't wrench on stuff by hand anymore, my hands won't take it.

I have an older version of this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...teries-Charger-and-Tool-Bag-2401-22/100615066

I use non-oem packs on it, my drill and hacksall, they seem to do well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TD9QCQF
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FKH2PGR

 

[jondilly1974]

The normal M12 driver works great for me on my RC's. If I didn't have that, I'd have to quite RC. I just can't wrench on stuff by hand anymore, my hands won't take it.

I have an older version of this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...teries-Charger-and-Tool-Bag-2401-22/100615066

I use non-oem packs on it, my drill and hacksall, they seem to do well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TD9QCQF
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FKH2PGR

The regular driver with a clutch would certainly be better suited than a Fuel Impact.