Kraton which items are more important?

[N4SIR]

So im buying some aftermarket stuff for my kraton.. which ones are more important (other than chassis mounts and servo mount) and in which order would you get them?

aluminum shock towers
aluminum or titanium chassis (M2C or justbashit)
all the other asst aluminum
wing mounts, center brace support, steering hub, knuckles etc.. hinge pin holders etc..

or just wait for something to break ?

 

[Jimbobjr]

First thing I would do is the M2C chassis. Depending on your driving it may be all you need. Shock towers after that. Looks like you already have the braces. Those m2c shock mounts are really nice as well as the pillow ball retainers. Everything else on my rigs is stock. I use the tbone wheelie bar on the Kraton and oc. No one seems to like them much but if you move the holes up and bend up the wheelie bar bumper part they offer a lot of wing mount protection.

 

[N4SIR]

First thing I would do is the M2C chassis. Depending on your driving it may be all you need. Shock towers after that. Looks like you already have the braces. Those m2c shock mounts are really nice as well as the pillow ball retainers. Everything else on my rigs is stock. I use the tbone wheelie bar on the Kraton and oc. No one seems to like them much but if you move the holes up and bend up the wheelie bar bumper part they offer a lot of wing mount protection.

good point on the tbone i have it right here front basher bumper and rear wheelie bar

 

[crimsonfancy]

I like shock towers but I always bent mine before I upgraded....except for the Talion and I still have to get those on.
The M2C shock stand offs are excellent and I think they're an inexpensive upgrade that will be needed soon enough just doing average jumps and especially if you land upside down more at first.
I like the stock wing mount and good idea to have a backup. After I bent a couple sets I'd learned how to jump enough to not have to keep one on hand as backup.
I like the RPM front bumper because its cheap and needed.
For Kraton V4, I think $50 Hot Racing steering blocks will help if you tend to pull out front dog bones. I did a couple times and when it happens again I have a set to put on.
Most everyone suggests the M2C chassis but I've honestly never bent stock on any truck. I don't send my trucks though super high or far....maybe 25-30 feet. When I do bend one I'll buy M2C but am not buying one until it happens.
Aluminum gearbox cases are good idea too...I did break stock on my Kraton but have a stock backup. When I break another I'll upgrade.

 

[jonUF02]

I can tell you within minutes of driving my Kraton I landed on the lid and the rear shock tower bent. It's very exposed, and weak metal. I replaced it with Carbon Fiber, which I prefer because it's extremely light, very strong, and has flex to it, so you won't break other things "downstream" like the bulkheads. I never bent the front. Here is my "must" list for a Kraton, pretty much in order of funds availability.

1) Servo and mount upgrade
2) RPM front bumper
3) Change the diff oils, add aluminum cup on center diff, shim gear meshes as necessary
4) hardened pinion - Robinson Racing or Tekno are good ones
5) rear shock tower upgrade
6) Backflip tires from the Outcast
7) Sealed bearing kit
8) Metal center braces
9) Outcast side guards, front mud guards, rear wheelie wheels
10) RPM arms and mud guards

There's a lot of talk, but you're not going to bend the chassis with metal braces and the V4 T2T bracing unless you send it 50ft in the air and land terribly, or maybe full speed into a post or wall.

 

[RobinHood10]

So im buying some aftermarket stuff for my kraton.. which ones are more important (other than chassis mounts and servo mount) and in which order would you get them?

aluminum shock towers
aluminum or titanium chassis (M2C or justbashit)
all the other asst aluminum
wing mounts, center brace support, steering hub, knuckles etc.. hinge pin holders etc..

or just wait for something to break ?

U can wait. But if u want to upgrade, u will break front upper arm mount. This part takes too much abuse on pivot ball suspension cars but its surprisingly plastic. U can buy now. I would upgrade chassis before towers. Towers are easy to change. If you don't bash too hardly, u can consider towers as wearable items. At jennysrc orijinal towers are so cheap. U cant make unbreakable cars. Something should break. If u want to gain acceleration or cornering performance, use some lighter smaller tires. Stay away from backflips, trenchers or something like that.

 

[WoodiE]

Bearings.

 

[N4SIR]

Bearings.

was going to get jims stainless sealed good right?

 

[WoodiE]

was going to get jims stainless sealed good right?

Never tried them so I can't recommend them.

I'm a fasteddybearings.com fan, but have tried Boca and Avid bearings and both of them are good too.

 

[N4SIR]

Never tried them so I can't recommend them.

I'm a fasteddybearings.com fan, but have tried Boca and Avid bearings and both of them are good too.

i was going to get fast eddies but there are some bad reviews on amazon
then again its one persons experience

After seeing the good reviews I decided why not. Got these on the 30th no July and now it is September 2nd and my rear bearing took a dump inside my differential case. I had a bearing failure that took out my crown gear and my spur gear. Now it's going to be cost of me in access of $40 to fix.

People do your research I thought I did but I thought wrong. It would be nice to get some help from fast Eddie's but I'm sure that is not going to happen. I am very disappointed. These things should have lasted longer than what they did. Never again.

https://smile.amazon.com/Arrma-Kraton-Sealed-Ball-Bearing/dp/B00SNCVII0/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2M7USDFHWF4AR&keywords=fast+eddie+bearings&qid=1581455510&sprefix=fast+eddies,aps,181&sr=8-4#customerReviews

 

[WoodiE]

Pick what you think will work best.

 

[N4SIR]

Pick what you think will work best.

i guess im scared just to open my diffs and do the oils let alone have a bearing wreck it .. hey its all part of the learning process etc

 

[WoodiE]

i guess im scared just to open my diffs and do the oils let alone have a bearing wreck it .. hey its all part of the learning process etc

I would highly suggest reading our How to shim your Arrma diff thread. Sooner or later you're going to have to get inside your diffs and honestly it should be SOONER rather than later.

Shim the diffs, replace with good bearings (which ever you see fit) and then when you're out driving around don't land under throttle doing jumps. Take care of your truck and it will take care of you.

In the end, nothing is going to stop you from having to do maintenance and service though.

 

[adidas303]

i was going to get fast eddies but there are some bad reviews on amazon
then again its one persons experience

https://smile.amazon.com/Arrma-Kraton-Sealed-Ball-Bearing/dp/B00SNCVII0/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2M7USDFHWF4AR&keywords=fast+eddie+bearings&qid=1581455510&sprefix=fast+eddies,aps,181&sr=8-4#customerReviews

That can be the case with any brand though. Not every single bearing is going to be perfect, everytime! Super Frustrating, heck ya, at the least not very common.

i guess im scared just to open my diffs and do the oils let alone have a bearing wreck it .. hey its all part of the learning process etc

In all honesty, the worst part about it, is the mess it can make. Dealing with the diff oil and brake cleaner not the funnest for some. Promise ya though, putting everything back together is very easy. Once you have the sun and satellite gears back in the cup, fill the cup to the line, and definitely wait about 30 mins if you have the time/patience or heat up the cup so the oil can reach everywhere. Then add any more needed.

It's really one of those, looks worse than it is, situations! AND... you have us for any insights and questions!! ? ? ? ?

 

[-IronMan-]

Just bash it for now and upgrade when u break something. I just bent my chassis so I went with an M2c chassis and M2c braces see how that works out for me.
Oh if you do upgrade get a new radio and receiver I crashed my kraton less than 5min after its first run lost signal a few houses away from me went full speed into the curb minimal damage but still worth noting

 

[Radian2x]

I can tell you within minutes of driving my Kraton I landed on the lid and the rear shock tower bent. It's very exposed, and weak metal. I replaced it with Carbon Fiber, which I prefer because it's extremely light, very strong, and has flex to it, so you won't break other things "downstream" like the bulkheads. I never bent the front. Here is my "must" list for a Kraton, pretty much in order of funds availability.

1) Servo and mount upgrade
2) RPM front bumper
3) Change the diff oils, add aluminum cup on center diff, shim gear meshes as necessary
4) hardened pinion - Robinson Racing or Tekno are good ones
5) rear shock tower upgrade
6) Backflip tires from the Outcast
7) Sealed bearing kit
8) Metal center braces
9) Outcast side guards, front mud guards, rear wheelie wheels
10) RPM arms and mud guards

There's a lot of talk, but you're not going to bend the chassis with metal braces and the V4 T2T bracing unless you send it 50ft in the air and land terribly, or maybe full speed into a post or wall.

Quick question on the Carbon rear tower... have you had any issues with it since? On my stock tower I see there were some significant hits on the outermost points, where the shock connects. I'm wondering how the Carbon will hold up to those... hopefully will not de-laminate etc.

 

[jonUF02]

Firstly, I did run a bead of CA glue to seal the edges of the carbon pieces. Second, I put the Proline wing on it with a higher profile and a bit more stiff. I converted to Outcast which does not expose the rear tower as much as Kraton.

 

[Radian2x]

Firstly, I did run a bead of CA glue to seal the edges of the carbon pieces. Second, I put the Proline wing on it with a higher profile and a bit more stiff. I converted to Outcast which does not expose the rear tower as much as Kraton.

Ok thanks! That makes sense. I remember doing the CA glue procedure back when I ran touring cars 20 yrs ago.

 

[hobo]

So im buying some aftermarket stuff for my kraton.. which ones are more important (other than chassis mounts and servo mount) and in which order would you get them?

aluminum shock towers
aluminum or titanium chassis (M2C or justbashit)
all the other asst aluminum
wing mounts, center brace support, steering hub, knuckles etc.. hinge pin holders etc..

or just wait for something to break ?

m2c chassis rear m2c suspension mounts