Outcast Which parts break first on the 2018 Outcast?

[Kamikaze Kizer]

Yes. When jumping. You can put an e clip on to keep that from happening. What size? No clue. I bought a bunch and tried them until I found one that fit.

Good deal, thanks. I'll grab some for sure.

 

[robl45]

Just got a Notorious and on my first run I popped off this control arm. It snapped back on but popped a 2nd time. car runs great, but is this common?

It's defective. Have them send you new links. Had same problem when we got ours. Zip tie on end of ball will keep them on till warranty parts come.

 

[Kamikaze Kizer]

It's defective. Have them send you new links. Had same problem when we got ours. Zip tie on end of ball will keep them on till warranty parts come.

Thanks Rob. I'll call Arrma on this

 

[bicketybam]

Call Arrma. They will be good because they just are. But for future reference, the ends will wear and eventually elongate. It's a consumable item.

 

[cootertwo]

Same here, popped mine a few times. Need to do the e clip thing I guess

 

[bicketybam]

Same here, popped mine a few times. Need to do the e clip thing I guess

Or just snap it back on, lol ?

 

[cootertwo]

Yes, but it gets looser each time, sorta like some girlfriends I used to have! Ha!

 

[Neelio it's me]

Ha ha 20 mins into 1st run killed the bumper. Driving at 50% power barely throtled ran head on into a hidden stump. Have a T-bone on the way 10075 - TBR XV4 2.0 Front Bumper - ARRMA Kraton 6S BLX. Heard this fits.
Sad i can't drive anymore till it gets here hinge pins are free!
So far the bumper is the weakest part IMO.

 

[Notorious J]

Ha ha 20 mins into 1st run killed the bumper. Driving at 50% power barely throtled ran head on into a hidden stump. Have a T-bone on the way 10075 - TBR XV4 2.0 Front Bumper - ARRMA Kraton 6S BLX. Heard this fits.
Sad i can't drive anymore till it gets here hinge pins are free!
So far the bumper is the weakest part IMO.

That bumper is okay, but it's going to beat up the front of the body pretty bad. It's short and the front lip of the truck will rest very close. Also, you might want to consider making some spacers to go in the holes of the chassis before screwing in that bumper. Use M4 flat screws and just drill out the center from the top. Once you get all the way through, you'll have perfect spacers to fit in the counter sink holes of the chassis. Without them, there's a good chance you'll pull the screws right out of the gear box on hard nose hits. RPM makes a Kraton bumper that incorporates that into the design, and has dimples on the face that meets the chassis. Here's a pic showing what the spacers look like.

 

[Neelio it's me]

That bumper is okay, but it's going to beat up the front of the body pretty bad. It's short and the front lip of the truck will rest very close. Also, you might want to consider making some spacers to go in the holes of the chassis before screwing in that bumper. Use M4 flat screws and just drill out the center from the top. Once you get all the way through, you'll have perfect spacers to fit in the counter sink holes of the chassis. Without them, there's a good chance you'll pull the screws right out of the gear box on hard nose hits. RPM makes a Kraton bumper that incorporates that into the design, and has dimples on the face that meets the chassis. Here's a pic showing what the spacers look like.

Did you switch to the TBR 10074? I saw the TBR 10075 on your Notorious in another post. I don't like the way the 10093 mounts to the bulkhead. Wonder why TBR wont put the dimples on the bumper lol?

 

[Maattttyy]

So I've bashed my Kraton to death in maybe 15 packs.

It was bare stock and this is what I've broken/replaced within that time. I run 6s, 16T pinion and 9 level punch. I do not try to take any care and give it plenty of punishment.

Rear diff, I think the a pin broke but i continued to run it, this caused the debris inside the diff to cause more damage. 1X new diff.
Upper front arm. Replaced with stock.
Servo, stripped the stock servo.
I have bent the rear shock tower.
I've had a dogbone come out of the cup on the front diff and this has caused some damage to the lower arm but I am still running with this arm.
Broken rear wing.
Bashed up body.

For how I treat this thing I am surprised I have not caused more damage. I'm serioously impressed with the abused these can take.

 

[Notorious J]

Did you switch to the TBR 10074? I saw the TBR 10075 on your Notorious in another post. I don't like the way the 10093 mounts to the bulkhead. Wonder why TBR wont put the dimples on the bumper lol?

It was always the 10075 Kraton bumper on the Noto, simply to not have to deal with the support piece that attached to the bulkhead. Once changing the front suspension hinge pin mount to CRCU, the added piece supplied by T Bone is no longer effective though. That small block attaches to the front in place of a stock bumper, and the small support bracket would bolt to there. The bumper on the Typhon 6s doesn't use any type of support, so moving forward, I will run the same way on my Noto. I think, and stress that I am just guessing, the reason the bumpers aren't dimpled is because they are cut from sheets and blocks of a delrin type plastic, not formed in molds like RPM are. T Bone plastic is much harder and resistant to wear. RPM are more flexible, but softer and wear quickly. Both handle front end impacts well, but the T Bone is more likely to crack in extreme hits, because of its rigidity. This is also the reason the screws were being torn out from under the bulk head on many trucks that use them. The RPM will only crack once the area of the bend wears down from repeated use, but the softness of the plastic means that when running on anything other than grass, that time frame is shorter than a T Bone.
The addition of the screw head spacers (thanks @Jimbobjr) is the key to fixing this one set back the T Bone bumpers have. Always remember, the bumper will break if beaten on enough times, doesn't matter who made them. That's the reason we need them, to protect the trucks when our driving would otherwise destroy whole other sections and components.

 

[Neelio it's me]

It was always the 10075 Kraton bumper on the Noto, simply to not have to deal with the support piece that attached to the bulkhead. Once changing the front suspension hinge pin mount to CRCU, the added piece supplied by T Bone is no longer effective though. That small block attaches to the front in place of a stock bumper, and the small support bracket would bolt to there. The bumper on the Typhon 6s doesn't use any type of support, so moving forward, I will run the same way on my Noto. I think, and stress that I am just guessing, the reason the bumpers aren't dimpled is because they are cut from sheets and blocks of a delrin type plastic, not formed in molds like RPM are. T Bone plastic is much harder and resistant to wear. RPM are more flexible, but softer and wear quickly. Both handle front end impacts well, but the T Bone is more likely to crack in extreme hits, because of its rigidity. This is also the reason the screws were being torn out from under the bulk head on many trucks that use them. The RPM will only crack once the area of the bend wears down from repeated use, but the softness of the plastic means that when running on anything other than grass, that time frame is shorter than a T Bone.
The addition of the screw head spacers (thanks @Jimbobjr) is the key to fixing this one set back the T Bone bumpers have. Always remember, the bumper will break if beaten on enough times, doesn't matter who made them. That's the reason we need them, to protect the trucks when our driving would otherwise destroy whole other sections and components.

Cool. I just ordered the Typhon bumper. The TBR looks cooler but I'm going to try to cancel my order. I can buy 3 rpm bumpers for the same price and that should last me.....uhm atleast 3 runs! I hope lol. I have the RPM Kraton one sitting around. I plan on upgrading my suspension carriers to some nice ones later. I have cheap GPM front and rear carriers on the way untl i can afford some better ones (don't bash my choice of cheap chinese parts lol). Also got the GPM servo mount for now. Put the M2C Goliath chassis and some avid bearing on. Will do the bearings in the diffs soon I was going to try F/C/R - 60k/100k/20k weights. Are the extra bearings in the kit for the servo or the wheelie bar IDK? Did you have to shim your diffs? Have M2C front and rear braces on the way. Also have a rear RPM skid plate on the way. Think I need a rear bumper? Man i'm full of questions. Plan on replacing the rest as they bend, break, explode etc.

 

[Notorious J]

Cool. I just ordered the Typhon bumper. The TBR looks cooler but I'm going to try to cancel my order. I can buy 3 rpm bumpers for the same price and that should last me.....uhm atleast 3 runs! I hope lol. I have the RPM Kraton one sitting around. I plan on upgrading my suspension carriers to some nice ones later. I have cheap GPM front and rear carriers on the way untl i can afford some better ones (don't bash my choice of cheap chinese parts lol). Also got the GPM servo mount for now. Put the M2C Goliath chassis and some avid bearing on. Will do the bearings in the diffs soon I was going to try F/C/R - 60k/100k/20k weights. Are the extra bearings in the kit for the servo or the wheelie bar IDK? Did you have to shim your diffs? Have M2C front and rear braces on the way. Also have a rear RPM skid plate on the way. Think I need a rear bumper? Man i'm full of questions. Plan on replacing the rest as they bend, break, explode etc.

The four smallest bearings are four the steering posts. Only bushings in there stock. No qualms about using what you can afford. I've made some pretty sketchy home made mods myself. Don't care what others think, as long as they work and save me money and hassles. Build on.