Big Rock who can talk me out of the tenacity MT? big rock?

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My list, in order, is the BRCC, Senton 3S, Redcat MT10E, Redcat camo TT, Granite 3S, Redcat Terromoto V2, Tenacity SCT (i just picked up a roller of this truck, but im building that strictly for racing), and, possibly, another Team Associated.

I have 2 Redcat TRMT10s. The main problem with them is that the motor has no overhead. The 4000kv is too high for the car & the 9t pinion leaves the car slow, 40ish on 3s. A lower kv motor would have more torque & more pinion options. I switch out one for a 3300kv & a 17t pinion. It flies on 3s. But I couldn't stop there. I put a 4s system in the other & it's ballistic. I wish it could take a larger motor since the 4s 3660 can get pretty warm but I recently put the huge Arrma heatsink on it & it has made a drastic difference. I had to put beefier links on both trucks. The stock links snap if you roll into anything larger than a golf ball. Also the center diff upgrade is a must. I wrecked a rear diff on my first run with the stock spool & I sat both of them until I did the upgrade. I had no diff problems since. The surprise of the car was how good the tires are. They are just as good as the Granite tires & share the same 14mm hex.

I either own or driven most of the cars you've listed. The Camo & Terromoto are nightmares. Weak everything . . . if they were $100 cheaper they still wouldn't worth it. Save yourself the headache. Both cars feel like they were assembled in sweatshops.
 
I either own or driven most of the cars you've listed. The Camo & Terromoto are nightmares. Weak everything . . . if they were $100 cheaper they still wouldn't worth it. Save yourself the headache. Both cars feel like they were assembled in sweatshops.
This debate with myself, if you will, came to a screeching halt a bit ago, after walking away from everything, and just sitting and thinking about what i really am looking for, which are a 4WD SCT and a 4WD monster truck, to go with the Fury i already have, and what i want them for, and, i narrowed it down to two from my favorite company overall (as i noted in another post, im a huge Losi fan), so, i have narrowed it down to either the Tenacity SCT and Monster Truck, or the Granite and Senton, but, not the 3S versions. Now, my next search is on for a useable beater that i can swap all the parts from the Warhawk into, just to have another truck for kids to beat on. Even though i know ahead of time it will break, for that, im leaning towards Redcat stuff (mostly Blackouts), but, mainly because my wife found several rollers on Ebay for $100 or less. The only Granite roller i found anywhere is $150, which, after i buy my two trucks, $100 is gonna be a stretch. As for a Senton, i cant find a roller anywhere. Now, i just need to decide if i am going to stick with Arrma, or go with Losi, or, maybe get one from Arrma, and one from Losi.
 
II either own or driven most of the cars you've listed. The Camo & Terromoto are nightmares. Weak everything . . . if they were $100 cheaper they still wouldn't worth it. Save yourself the headache. Both cars feel like they were assembled in sweatshops.
What were the issues with the Terremoto and Camo? Were they stock, or modified?
 
What were the issues with the Terremoto and Camo? Were they stock, or modified?
I owned the Terremoto a few weeks before getting rid of it. The build quality was terrible. The shock tower bent & I didn't even jump the thing. The shocks came apart one by one. I broke an axle in a rolling tumble that smashed the body & rear body posts. Again, this was just running the car on a level surface, no jumping or running into anything. The thing is nothing but an overpriced Volcano with a few different parts. I returned the thing since I bought it using Amazon. I do that for all my Redcat stuff since returns are super easy. I took the Camo for a spin at my LHS. Seriously, leave it alone. The rear axle ended up snapping within a minute of starting it up. That was just rolling around the parking lot. It has an issue with the rear locked diff. It needs to be unlocked. But the car in general feels really cheap. If you compare it to a Baja Rey, the Rey feels like a tank while the Camo feels like a empty pop can. I don't think I can explain the difference in more than that.
 
just got the complete slipper/spur/bearings setup, complete set of turnbuckles, motormount/heatsink, and bellcrank/servo saver for 52 bucks to my door from JennysRC. I would see if I could get this place authorized on your account somehow if I was you.

I think my current plans now are to completely "BLX" this senton and throw on some MT tires. then when I get the typhon I will swap arms with the senton to give it the width to run the stablemaxx setup I have (I hope), and then put the narrower arms on the senton because it looks like the only way the MT tires fit on the BRCC and granite are because of enormous amounts of offset, and the senton looks like it has the long arms because the factory wheels look like they are WAY offset the other direction so I can then get some cheap chinese 17mm 2.8 setups for the typhon and have something like the BRCC and something like a truggified typhon (athough a little narrower than most). Obviously I'll only know if this works after I get everything purchased/swapped.

I also went ahead and got steel CVDs and another rear diff for the 1/18 ruckus I got. sucker does 45 on 3s but nothing holds so this time the diff is just getting epoxied and the screws being loctited into the outdrives hopefully stay together.
 
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To the OP, sorry if it seems like i hijacked your thread, that wasnt my attention at all.
don't mind at all, in fact you are the only one keeping this thread useful because I ended up not listening to anybodies advice in here anyways... lol. It also helps me listening to peoples input on the vehicles you're after as well. I myself was eyeballing that redcat camo x4 preorder on tower... I guess I better look into what is the same and whats changed from the first redcat camo.
 
just got the complete slipper/spur/bearings setup, complete set of turnbuckles, motormount/heatsink, and bellcrank/servo saver for 52 bucks to my door from JennysRC. I would see if I could get this place authorized on your account somehow if I was you.

I think my current plans now are to completely "BLX" this senton and throw on some MT tires. then when I get the typhon I will swap arms with the senton to give it the width to run the stablemaxx setup I have (I hope), and then put the narrower arms on the senton because it looks like the only way the MT tires fit on the BRCC and granite are because of enormous amounts of offset, and the senton looks like it has the long arms because the factory wheels look like they are WAY offset the other direction so I can then get some cheap chinese 17mm 2.8 setups for the typhon and have something like the BRCC and something like a truggified typhon (athough a little narrower than most). Obviously I'll only know if this works after I get everything purchased/swapped.

I also went ahead and got steel CVDs and another rear diff for the 1/18 ruckus I got. sucker does 45 on 3s but nothing holds so this time the diff is just getting epoxied and the screws being loctited into the outdrives hopefully stay together. Thats what happened last time, the epoxied diff stayed together but the plastic outdrive unscrewed itself from screw holding it to the larger spider gear... (after it rounded itself out obviously)
The Granite, Senton, & BRCC all have the exact same suspension setup: the same arms, axles, hexes, shocks, hubs, etc. The wheels of the Granite has the normal 1/2" offset. The Senton & BRCC wheels have a 1/4" offset. The BRCC wheels do rub the body while the Granite's don't. Not only does the BRCC has narrow tires but they are also a smaller offset.

I made Granite 2.8 tires fit 3.8" rims with 1/2" offsets. These tires can fit any car with 17mm hexes regardless of hub design or arm length. They bolt right on my 3s & 6s Typhons, both can't use normal 2.8 MT tires w/o extending the hexes.
29416
 
I was hoping typhon arms would push it out far enough but maybe not. I haven't searched hard yet but haven't seen just how much wider they will make things. my stablemaxx technically do "fit" on the senton as is but when I turn they are basically right at the chassis and obviously the body (proline c10 maxx body) and the rears just BARELY clear the body if I remember right. then the typhon will be narrower with the senton arms but since the stock wheels mount about as close to the face as possible without making a convex wheel I figure an MT setup with any decent offset should solve the problem. I might actually step back to 14mm hexes on the typhon and run the senton whees so I'll have a long wheelbase MT, and a long wheelbase SCB... and then I'll not be 100% satisfied and buy ANOTHER RC lol because the 6 I have now aren't enough :unsure:
 
I took the Camo for a spin at my LHS. Seriously, leave it alone. The rear axle ended up snapping within a minute of starting it up. That was just rolling around the parking lot. It has an issue with the rear locked diff. It needs to be unlocked. But the car in general feels really cheap. If you compare it to a Baja Rey, the Rey feels like a tank while the Camo feels like a empty pop can. I don't think I can explain the difference in more than that.
I have to say this, even though it might catch me a bit of flak, but, against the Baja Rey, nothing Redcat makes will ever come close, at least in my opinion, not even their Team Redcat stuff. I am actually looking at getting a Fazon Voltage, or something similar, and just put the warhawk parts in that.

don't mind at all, in fact you are the only one keeping this thread useful because I ended up not listening to anybodies advice in here anyways... lol. It also helps me listening to peoples input on the vehicles you're after as well. I myself was eyeballing that redcat camo x4 preorder on tower... I guess I better look into what is the same and whats changed from the first redcat camo.
I have heard from several sources that the locked diff is an issue in the Camo TT, but, not too much about the X4, but, there are several videos on youtube about what parts to use to unlock the diff. I don't know if that would help with your decision making, but i figured i would put it out there. As for the Losi/Arrma debate, im kind of stuck in that same thought process of which one to get. On the one hand, you have Losi, who have been in the game a long time, and, i am pretty sure that by now, know what they are doing, but, on the other hand, you have Arrma, who may not have been around as long, but, build a really good product, especially for the price, and both get awesome reviews most places. Both have their drawbacks, but, find me an RC that doesn't, and while i wouldnt outright say you were lying, i would wonder what you were drinking or maybe smoking.

This right here though is why i constantly come here for advice, no matter what brand it is, because no matter the brand, you get real world advice, unlike some other forums that are vehicle specific, and only want to talk about that particular brand.
 
it's a snow day here and I am rebuilding the front diff to BLX specs right now. They use 4 screws and I got a pack of 6 last time... leaves only 2 for the front diff so I am heading to the LHS and going to have to try and contain myself because I know they have a couple typhon 3S in stock...
 
I have to say this, even though it might catch me a bit of flak, but, against the Baja Rey, nothing Redcat makes will ever come close, at least in my opinion, not even their Team Redcat stuff. I am actually looking at getting a Fazon Voltage, or something similar, and just put the warhawk parts in that.

I bought the voltage cars for my niece & nephew. They're OK but will never handle a brushless system. The drive cups are plastic & can't be upgraded. The steering is also pretty bad, not just the servo, but the linkage itself. It's fine for a slow brushed car. But I don't think it would be able to handle a better servo.
 
@maddmatt02 what arrma did you get?

lol, you know how this works all too well, huh?

this is a pic I took to send a buddy after I walked out of the LHS. also got some 5x10x4 for the steering and a couple 10x15x4 for when the first few lock up on me... tried to get the 20T or the adjustable motor mount but only had 19s then jumped up past 20... so I have the 20 on order because the mount was backordered and he couldnt get the hot racing one any time soon either.

I ultimately went with the arrma because I hate the bottom mount batteries, I planned on cutting that box away and putting straps on anyways. plus that 99 dollar kit that has the alum towers, chassis, shocks, etc.. if I broke the MT I could just go to the "T" with a few more parts... BUT with the arrma while I didnt get something that shares EVERYTHING with out senton... I can keep most spares that will service both and if for some reason I end up breaking BOTH while on vacation in mexico or something I can always make some sort of hybrid between the 2 and get back in the dirt.
 

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Got the plug changed, didn't have to cut the wires so if I have an issue and put the ec5 it'll be stock length. Actually found a 20T in my box brand new so that's going on as well as the bell crank bearings then its out to blast in the snow. One thing I noticed though is there's lots of play where the axles go through the bearings which sit inside the steering blocks. Not sure if its the axle in the bearing or the bearing in the block but it's much worse than my old senton which should be worse from all the bearing its taken... so that's where a lot of the steering slop is coming from on the typhon for me. Oh well though it's a basher.
 
Got the plug changed, didn't have to cut the wires so if I have an issue and put the ec5 it'll be stock length. Actually found a 20T in my box brand new so that's going on as well as the bell crank bearings then its out to blast in the snow. One thing I noticed though is there's lots of play where the axles go through the bearings which sit inside the steering blocks. Not sure if its the axle in the bearing or the bearing in the block but it's much worse than my old senton which should be worse from all the bearing its taken... so that's where a lot of the steering slop is coming from on the typhon for me. Oh well though it's a basher.
Sometimes jumping on temptation is for the best :ROFLMAO: 90% of the steering slop comes from the bellcrank. The other 10% is from the pivot balls. The play in the steering blocks is there to keep the C-hub from self-destructing. It is a basher & the C-hub has several weak points.
 
well after I wrote that I remembered I have replaced all the bearings in the senton with rubber sealed units from the LHS. so that could be why it's so much tighter. If both trucks were like that I could see it being intentional but since the typhon is so much worse and has different bearings I would guess its just a tolerance thing between bearing manufacturers? doesn't bother me enough to do anything about though.
 
I almost bought a Losi myself but after reading more and more reviews I finally went with Granite BLX. I've had it a few weeks and I absolutely love it. I really wanted a Truck and something electric because my nitro buggy wasn't the best in the snow or long grass. The granite is awesome I would recommend to anyone. I am installing headlights and tail lights for some night driving.
 

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I almost bought a Losi myself but after reading more and more reviews I finally went with Granite BLX. I've had it a few weeks and I absolutely love it. I really wanted a Truck and something electric because my nitro buggy wasn't the best in the snow or long grass. The granite is awesome I would recommend to anyone. I am installing headlights and tail lights for some night driving.
I was leaning towards the Losi myself, but, after running one yesterday against a Senton, im gonna get the Senton instead. Im not getting the 3S version though, simply because i have no place to run it at those speeds, so i figured why pay the extra for no reason. I ran a mega yesterday that my brothers neighbor has, against my brothers Tenacity MT, and even in the grass the Senton seemed to handle better, and was easier to drive. Yes, i know one is a monster truck, and one is an SCT, but, the Tenacity was extremely bouncy and twitchy. My newly converted Associated SC10 short course monster truck (yes, you read that right, i kind of converted the SC10 to a monster truck for better ground clearance) handled better, until i broke it being dumb.
 
I found the Terremoto-10 V2 to be a really nice truck. The only upgrades that it really could use is the center diff and a T-Bone skid plate. It's a larger size than most 1/10 scale monster trucks and handles really well. Probably the only weak point is the steering setup which has some play. Upgrading the steering servo will put the steering on par with the other monster trucks on the market.

Brian
 
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