Typhon Why change diff oils?

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Necplur

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
So, I see a gazillion YouTube videos on tips changing diff oils.

But, why? Can one drift more? Wheelie less? Wheelie more (for those standing backflips)?
 
The most common change is changing the centre diff oil to a thicker oil. It helps to stop all the power bleeding out to the front wheels, which wears the tyres and bearings out quicker. Thicker oil here also allows you to wheelie more, but thinner oil helps the car stabilize over loose surfaces

Thicker oil in the front allows you to make tighter corners mostly when braking, but can be a bit erratic and harder to steer. Thinner oil here allows for easier and more consistent cornering but with more of a chance of understeer

Thicker oil in the rear helps to stabilize the car at higher speeds in a straight line, but with more of a chance of spinning out with oversteer (drift mode!) when cornering. Thinner oil here will make cornering far easier but may cause instability and cause the car to wobble at high speeds
 
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With the proper oil , you can fine tune how your car handles. You can wheelie more or wheelie less depending on the oil used.
 
The most common change is changing the centre diff ...

Both these replies really help. Thanks!

(The process seems a bit advanced, so I might hold off until I learn how to solder and install an External BEC for my new servo, new STX2 replacement, and more...)
 
Both these replies really help. Thanks!

(The process seems a bit advanced, so I might hold off until I learn how to solder and install an External BEC for my new servo, new STX2 replacement, and more...)
No problem. First attempts are always the most difficult. It took me 3-4 oil changes across my diffs to get it to drive how I wanted it to. If you do change your oils, you may as well shim your diffs whilst you're at it, but cross that bridge when you come to it ?
 
In addition to the above info... by increasing your centre diff oils viscosity you also get an instant performance boost from the increased traction.
I went 300k for the centre Diff on my Typhon, it just puts the power down so much better. On rougher, bumpy loose surfaces the driveability will suffer a bit and it will be hard to keep it going straight when putting a lot of power down.. but on smoother surfaces its a big improvement.
 
In addition to the above info... by increasing your centre diff oils viscosity you also get an instant performance boost from the increased traction.
I went 300k for the centre Diff on my Typhon, it just puts the power down so much better. On rougher, bumpy loose surfaces the driveability will suffer a bit and it will be hard to keep it going straight when putting a lot of power down.. but on smoother surfaces its a big improvement.
Also worth mentioning that because of weight distribution you also put more wear and tear on your rear driveline parts when you put thicker diff fluid in the center diff.....which is why I suspect they use the thin stuff from the factory, to save the driveline parts.
 
Also worth mentioning that because of weight distribution you also put more wear and tear on your rear driveline parts when you put thicker diff fluid in the center diff.....which is why I suspect they use the thin stuff from the factory, to save the driveline parts.

Sounds logical that the rear driveline parts will wear more. On the flip side the front driveline parts can overheat and the front tyres also suffer a lot with stock spec so not sure if the stock viscosities are chosen for cost/reliability reasons or not.
Diff issues are not a major problem on the lighter Arrmas like the Typhon etc despite also having the more efficient but slightly weaker straight cut gearing... so I wonder if its maybe more of a spec carry over from the Racing buggy the Typhon is a descendent off?
 
If I were to try changing diff oil for the first time, are the front/rear any easier/harder than the center? The videos seem involved. Don't mind that. It's a hobby. But wondering what I should start with. (Heck, wonder if I should get a $99 Granite Voltage to test on, be my cadaver.)
 
The Front and Rear come out pretty easy. They diff housing is made to be accessed from the front/rear. The center diff requires more screws to be removed I believe. Once you do it a few times it becomes second nature and they are all easy. I could take my diffs out blindfolded.
 
I run 100k/500k/500k (front/middle/rear) on my typhon and it grips, jumps, corners, and rips the straights at my local track. However due to the heavy weight oil and increased resistance the dogbone input cups and the T part of the dogbone that goes in the cup is starting to wear a lot and I already ordered a new set as i see them failing soon.
Sounds logical that the rear driveline parts will wear more. On the flip side the front driveline parts can overheat and the front tyres also suffer a lot with stock spec so not sure if the stock viscosities are chosen for cost/reliability reasons or not.
Diff issues are not a major problem on the lighter Arrmas like the Typhon etc despite also having the more efficient but slightly weaker straight cut gearing... so I wonder if its maybe more of a spec carry over from the Racing buggy the Typhon is a descendent off?
Pretty sure its the typhon is a clone of the team durango dex8. Correct me if im wrong.
 
The way I've looked at it, is like an LSD using hydraulics. vs a disc/plate system. If you want more slippy slip, go thinner, for more grippy grip (on diffs) use thicker.
 
Pretty sure its the typhon is a clone of the team durango dex8. Correct me if im wrong.

Its not a clone. Iirc, they are the same company. Arrma is the Basher side of Team Durango (which is the competition/Racing side). The Typhon is based on the DEX8. They share some parts and some other parts are interchangeable.
I read that on here a while back anyway..
 
I run 100k/500k/500k (front/middle/rear) on my typhon and it grips, jumps, corners, and rips the straights at my local track. However due to the heavy weight oil and increased resistance the dogbone input cups and the T part of the dogbone that goes in the cup is starting to wear a lot and I already ordered a new set as i see them failing soon.

Pretty sure its the typhon is a clone of the team durango dex8. Correct me if im wrong.
How you been running that fluid so far ?
I running 60/500/80 and it’s good weigh, full throttle little squirrelly some what on point, cornering is great, I may jump up to 80/500/100
 
How you been running that fluid so far ?
I running 60/500/80 and it’s good weigh, full throttle little squirrelly some what on point, cornering is great, I may jump up to 80/500/100
If I were you I would swap the front and rear diffs around, so it'll be 80F/60R. That should help it to become less tail-happy with minimal effort ?
 
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