Limitless Why do they do this

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Notoriousone

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Last week I bought a 6s CNHL 9500mah battery with QS8 connectors, they had a sale and I like how these batteries perform. I got the pack and as I usually do I removed the insulation to see the soldering job. It was nice and neat, but barely enough solder to cover the wire completely, let alone fill the cup. Unfortunately I've seen this many times with many different batteries. CNHL advertises this battery in their speedrun/drag section, I think its interesting that they feel a pack of this capacity intended to be used for speedruns should be soldered like that.. I don't know, maybe its ok for bashing, but that soldering job doesn't sit well with me. This the reason why I wish manufacturers would at least give you the option of no connectors at all, just bare wires. I would much rather just do it myself the first time correctly. This is no big deal as its an easy fix to remove and resolder QS8's, but for a pack like this that shouldn't happen. Do better CNHL

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Last week I bought a 6s CNHL 9500mah battery with QS8 connectors, they had a sale and I like how these batteries perform. I got the pack and as I usually do I removed the insulation to see the soldering job. It was nice and neat, but barely enough solder to cover the wire completely, let alone fill the cup. Unfortunately I've seen this many times with many different batteries. CNHL advertises this battery in their speedrun/drag section, I think its interesting that they feel a pack of this capacity intended to be used for speedruns should be soldered like that.. I don't know, maybe its ok for bashing, but that soldering job doesn't sit well with me. This the reason why I wish manufacturers would at least give you the option of no connectors at all, just bare wires. I would much rather just do it myself the first time correctly. This is no big deal as its an easy fix to remove and resolder QS8's, but for a pack like this that shouldn't happen. Do better CNHL

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I bought some of those to try and compare to the cnhl 70c 6000mah batteries and I added solder to them. I did send a photo to one of the guys I had talked to at cnhl and he said he would relay the message. I don’t think they have much control over that., I do completely fill the solder on all my plugs.

With that said, after talking with them more their plan is to offer some of their most sought after batteries with upgraded 8 gauge wire( only a few packs have 8 atm) but without a plug on them.

They can offer at a lower price and the customer can add his own plug.

This will be great because I won’t need to put 8 gauge wire on the batteries anymore and I can just add the plugs with my solder job. I put the wire in there a little more
 
I usually fill the cup of my connectors but recently I have seen opinions from racers that the important thing is that the wire touches the connector and that too much solder is not that good. I never had problems with the way that I do it but I keep my eyes open for new findings.
 
Wow. Horrible soldering.
Got real cheap there trying to save some solder I guess????
I cannot tell from the picture well enough, but was the joint nice and shiny at least. Not a cold joint?????
If it was a nice joint despite little solder into to the cup, etc. It may suffice? Was it outright poor QC, or an attempt to save solder, albeit a good joint?
I would rework it no doubt. I would never solder that way.
 
Ive had same problem with a few lipos from chnl.
Basically wire stuck to side of bullet with very little solder.
luckily i change my connectors to as150s but some people use what comes on them.


I see Chnl are selling a hell of alot of lipos.
Slipping through QC.
 
I usually fill the cup of my connectors but recently I have seen opinions from racers that the important thing is that the wire touches the connector and that too much solder is not that good. I never had problems with the way that I do it but I keep my eyes open for new findings.
 
No expert here but it looks like a passable joint to me. The wire is fully encapsulated and has full contact with the connector. My only complaint is the joint isn’t very shiny. Forgive my ignorance but what is filling the cup going to do With the wire already fully encapsulated?
 
Forgive my ignorance but what is filling the cup going to do With the wire already fully encapsulated?
I'm not saying it's neccessary, but leaving the bare core longer, reaching to the bottom of the cup would almost double the surface area of the contact point on the cup. so then instead of relying on what? 'lets give it the benefit of the doubt' 2/3 of the side of the cup x cable contact width.
compared with :- at the full length stripped and inserted and soldered completely etc, =3/3(length) x width of contact patch (this is obviously curved or cupped around the cable, but is the same for both examples,
BUT added to that extra 1/3Length x contact patch is the whole Surface area of the end of the Core(CSA) so in effect probably doubles the actual transfer contact patch assuming equivalent soldering quality etc. mechanical strength would be improved by the same amount too :)
 
I’m new to soldering, and I just put some QS8s on my CHNL batteries.

Can people post some pics of their QS8 solders to give us new comers an idea of ideal? It would be very much appreciated.
 
I’m new to soldering, and I just put some QS8s on my CHNL batteries.

Can people post some pics of their QS8 solders to give us new comers an idea of ideal? It would be very much appreciated.
I have fixed many batteries but never took pics.. I have another CNHL 9500 4s pack that is soldered the same way as this one was, I will take before and after pictures and post them up once I fix it
 
That soldering job is fine, there's nothing to "fix." The cup looks "empty" because QS8 connectors can handle up to 6awg wire...that appears to be maybe 10awg. You don't need to fill the cup with solder to have a good joint. The important thing is that the solder penetrates through the wire and holds it securely to the connector...as long as that's accomplished, there's no need for excess. There is plenty of solder there to properly secure the wire so it won't pull off. No, drowning the wire and filling the cup with solder isn't "wrong," it just doesn't offer any benefits...could the argument be made that it would provide a stronger hold due to increased surface area? I suppose that stands to reason, but it's a battery, not a tow rope.
 
That soldering job is fine, there's nothing to "fix." The cup looks "empty" because QS8 connectors can handle up to 6awg wire...that appears to be maybe 10awg. You don't need to fill the cup with solder to have a good joint. The important thing is that the solder penetrates through the wire and holds it securely to the connector...as long as that's accomplished, there's no need for excess. There is plenty of solder there to properly secure the wire so it won't pull off. No, drowning the wire and filling the cup with solder isn't "wrong," it just doesn't offer any benefits...could the argument be made that it would provide a stronger hold due to increased surface area? I suppose that stands to reason, but it's a battery, not a tow rope.
I agree the wire is completely covered and will be fine for most uses..it’s 8 awg by the way. But for speedruns with an xlx2 on 8s, I’ve pulled 500 amps and have doubts about that amount of solder holding up without melting. I’ve seen connectors become unsoldered before on both motor and battery cables with speedruns on hot days. I feel just having that extra solder in the cup increases contact, connectivity and strength. I also think if you go to far and add to much solder than you run the risk of increasing resistance, so has to be a compromise of sorts
 
You can't see the stranding on the wire, so it has plenty of solder - maybe too much. Too much solder and the wire will float away from the plug metal and leave a gap that is just solder, and this is bad.

I do agree that they should have stripped a bit more insulation so the wire would touch the bottom of the cup.
 
Here's the factory connection on my Maclan DRK battery that I use for drag racing (also 8awg wire). It looks like the main difference between this and the CNHL is the method they use either makes the top of the join flush with the connector or they "clean it up" afterwards. I'm not sure what the purpose of that would be other than neatness and I'm not sure if it offers any benefit (I don't see what it would be). The Maclan doesn't bottom out in the cup either. For what it's worth, this battery has approximately 60 passes on it. From what I've seen, this is pretty standard, especially with the big-ass QS8 connectors.

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Whilst I posted a potential reasoning for further insertion, (and I still think fuller insertion would be beneficial) as a counter to that, it could be argued that they are putting the minimum amount of heat into the connector, that still allows full and acceptable solder flow and adhesion. Excess heat can deform the connector/cup/pin connection and cause another problem... 🙄 CNHL being one of the more highly thought of manufacturers or suppliers would suggest they are getting it right, or they would change the sop.
 
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