Big Rock Why does this happen.this is the second esc to do this.

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Mjc13

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Location
Uk
Arrma RC's
  1. 4x4-Mega
  2. BigRock 4x4
  3. Granite
  4. Kraton 6s
IMG_20200823_221700.jpg
IMG_20200823_221700.jpg
 
Either your wire(s) got hot enough to de-solder that joint, or it was a bad connection that wore out over time...I'd be a little more concerned about the first scenario. That being said, assuming that the only issue is the one that is visible, it can easily be re-soldered and should work 100% barring any other issues. Don't fret!
 
I recently had the same problem with my Granite. It's because the wire is moving around too much and tugging at the connection. In my case it was likely due to the battery straps coming loose and the battery popping out too often. I got the 6s battery straps. They're thinner, but they hold stronger because they're longer and they're hook on one side, loop on the other. The 3s/4s battery straps use a weaker hybrid style velcro. I also reversed the battery strap so I can run the velcro over the top and sides of the battery. No more battery pop out.

Since the straps are longer and more secure, I can also hold the esc/battery wires with them. The shorter/weaker 3s straps lose too much grip if you run the esc/battery wires under them. Finally I also have a thick rubber band around the middle of the battery to prevent any back and forth sliding of the battery wire. With two battery straps and a rubber band holding the wire, it can't move around anymore.

EDIT: 2nd ESC wire snapped in just a few runs. This method didn't work out so well.
 
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I recently had the same problem with my Granite. It's because the wire is moving around too much and tugging at the connection. In my case it was likely due to the battery straps coming loose and the battery popping out too often. I got the 6s battery straps. They're thinner, but they hold stronger because they're longer and they're hook on one side, loop on the other. The 3s/4s battery straps use a weaker hybrid style velcro. I also reversed the battery strap so I can run the velcro over the top and sides of the battery. No more battery pop out.

Since the straps are longer and more secure, I can also hold the esc/battery wires with them. The shorter/weaker 3s straps lose too much grip if you run the esc/battery wires under them. Finally I also have a thick rubber band around the middle of the battery to prevent any back and forth sliding of the battery wire. With two battery straps and a rubber band holding the wire, it can't move around anymore.
Rubber band sounds like a good idea.I think that will help.thanks man .
 
Rubber band sounds like a good idea.I think that will help.thanks man .
I actually just ripped out my second ESC wire in no time. I used just the rubber band for many months with my first ESC, so it may still be a good idea. But don't completely strap down the ESC wire like I advised in this thread earlier. I think I got 5 runs before the wire snapped this time.

EDIT: Not sure if it's the strapping method. My replacement ESC snapped in the same exact spot after a few runs as well. I did not strap the wires down. I think there's a quality control issue going on.
 
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Have you put in a warranty claim? Horizon Hobby is sending me a new ESC under warranty. They replaced both my ESC's. Plus, they got back to my email in one day this time! Very happy with the customer service.
Are you the UK bro?
 
I'm always worried about stuff getting caught up in the drivetrain, but yeah, looks like I need to leave lots of play.

Play is what leads to failure. Immobilizing the capacitor board with respect to the ESC is key. In any industry other than RC, soldering is prohibited in seismic environments - any flex at the solder joint will lead to mechanical failure of the wire. The heatshrink does a good enough job of immobilizing the wire going to the battery, but not the wire going to the ESC. The wire is designed to fail at the ESC side of the inline capacitor board:

Wire Failure.png


I really wish the RC industry would just figure out how to use crimps.
 
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Play is what leads to failure. Immobilizing the capacitor board with respect to the ESC is key. In any industry other than RC, soldering is prohibited in seismic environments - any flex at the solder joint will lead to mechanical failure of the wire. The heatshrink does a good enough job of immobilizing the wire going to the battery, but not the wire going to the ESC. The wire is designed to fail at the ESC side of the inline capacitor board:

View attachment 98426

I really wish the RC industry would just figure out how to use crimps.
sucks big time
 
You know, I think the only reason that cap pack is there is because the battery leads are way too long. I'm going to shorten my battery leads and ditch the cap pack.
 
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View attachment 98426

I really wish the RC industry would just figure out how to use crimps.
OMG another ESC wire snapped, same place. My first one lasted months, somehow the wire shredded, but the solder joint stayed intact. These last 2, the solder joint failed after a few runs in the same exact place.

Any tutorials on crimping? What parts do I need? I'm going to put in ANOTHER warranty claim, but I need to try another solution as well.
 
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After seeing my photos, Horizon Hobby is saying it may not be the solder but the wire. They're requesting to send them in for repair. Both snapped in the same exact place.

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How tight is your ESC cable when your battery is connected, or are you pulling the cable when you disconnect you battery instead of pulling the battery?
 
I left the cable completely loose. If you read the thread you'll see I tried to immobilize the cable before, but that also snapped. I don't know what to do. My first ESC lasted months. The same wire broke, but that was after months of abuse and when the battery was constantly popping out. I have new battery straps now and the battery has never popped out since. These last 2 ESC wires lasted a few runs. Hopefully it's just bad luck. Maybe a bad factory run.
 
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