Typhon Why has nobody made a center shaft cover for the 3s line?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Camaroboy383

Invention is the mother of necessity!
Premium Member
ArrmaForum Fan
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
5,104
Reaction score
9,301
Location
Connecticut
Arrma RC's
  1. 4x4-Mega
  2. Felony
  3. Outcast 4s
  4. Outcast 6s
  5. Outcast 8s
  6. Typhon 3s
  7. Typhon 6s
Well, searched high and low for a center shaft cover and came up with nothing.. be much nicer to have that shaft covered.. anyone ever seen one for these? I'm about to hit the cad and design one that can be 3d printed..

Let me know if anyone already makes them, if not I'll post my design after I draw it up and get it fitted...

Alden
 
Well, searched high and low for a center shaft cover and came up with nothing.. be much nicer to have that shaft covered.. anyone ever seen one for these? I'm about to hit the cad and design one that can be 3d printed..

Let me know if anyone already makes them, if not I'll post my design after I draw it up and get it fitted...

Alden
I guess I need to know the main reason why you want to cover it before I put my 2 cents in.
 
I guess I need to know the main reason why you want to cover it before I put my 2 cents in.


I like it!

Reason 1) wire management for batts.. has to be well routed to avoid the shaft in all 3s models.. if not secured its bound to get into the shaft after big air...

Reason 2) reports are out there of rocks and sticks getting into the path and melting the center shaft enough for failure

Reason 3) prolonged bearing life, less dirt entering the bearing path and races

Reason 4) less overall movement of the shaft if designed correctly to house the center bearing support..

5) that honey comb is a pita to clean the dirt out of

Alden
 
I like it!

Reason 1) wire management for batts.. has to be well routed to avoid the shaft in all 3s models.. if not secured its bound to get into the shaft after big air...

Reason 2) reports are out there of rocks and sticks getting into the path and melting the center shaft enough for failure

Reason 3) prolonged bearing life, less dirt entering the bearing path and races

Reason 4) less overall movement of the shaft if designed correctly to house the center bearing support..

5) that honey comb is a pita to clean the dirt out of

Alden

1) Get the tower to tower shaft from the Kraton 4S and use that to wire manage with some velcro wrap or zip ties.

2,3,&5) Dusty Motors cover will keep everything out of the insides.

4) Never had my center bearing move a bit. Not sure this should be a concern.

That said, I have cracked two chassis so far. Another concern is the motor mount plate bending. A rear motor support would help. I started fabing one, 3D printed it in PLA, but it didn't hold up. I had a single mounting point and it wasn't enough to hold it in place during a visit to the skate park today. Also, PLA isn't well known for taking high temps, but it's the filament I have on hand.
 
I like all of the above mentioned.. not to keen on the v3 tube as management though, almost adding clutter to clutter..

I had my center support break one half off first outing to the bmx track not sure exactly what happened.. but I printed a carbon fiber pla support with a touch more beef and it's been good...I guess it's possible the support was cracked from the factory? But who knows.. I just moved on after a 20 min print..
 
I like all of the above mentioned.. not to keen on the v3 tube as management though, almost adding clutter to clutter..

I had my center support break one half off first outing to the bmx track not sure exactly what happened.. but I printed a carbon fiber pla support with a touch more beef and it's been good...I guess it's possible the support was cracked from the factory? But who knows.. I just moved on after a 20 min print..
I meant the Kraton 4S, not the Kraton 6S V3.
 
And yes that can gets way to hot for pla.. it just starts to glass transition.. may be better off with some taulman nylon or just go abs.. it should survive..
 
Well got a prototype design worked up last night and sent it to the printer.. have to check the fit, if it's all good I just have to add a couple tabs to locate the tunnel so there is no movement...
 
Here is the cad design
 

Attachments

  • 20190918_101928.jpg
    20190918_101928.jpg
    161.3 KB · Views: 61
  • 20190918_102026.jpg
    20190918_102026.jpg
    149.5 KB · Views: 62
Here is the cad design
Can you design an operator to hold my remote and drive my truck? It would probably save me money in the long run? You guys are next level with the use of technology to make modifications for this hobby. Love it!
 
Lol... I think it would save us all money lol... I know it...the technology these days is awsome... glad to be alive to experience and experiment with it...
 
Well not to fn bad for the first go around.. hot damn.. I'm liking this idea more and more! Couple adjustments to the model and I'll be in.. always nice when the prototype is close to what you want...
 

Attachments

  • 20190918_232106.jpg
    20190918_232106.jpg
    260.5 KB · Views: 90
  • 20190918_232055.jpg
    20190918_232055.jpg
    265.5 KB · Views: 95
  • 20190918_232629.jpg
    20190918_232629.jpg
    421.3 KB · Views: 99
  • 20190918_232637.jpg
    20190918_232637.jpg
    353.4 KB · Views: 101
  • 20190918_232651.jpg
    20190918_232651.jpg
    392.8 KB · Views: 98
  • 20190918_232643.jpg
    20190918_232643.jpg
    411.6 KB · Views: 94
Well not to fn bad for the first go around.. hot damn.. I'm liking this idea more and more! Couple adjustments to the model and I'll be in.. always nice when the prototype is close to what you want...
1) Your ESC is turned around? Is that to accommodate the deans plug adapter?

2) What printer and filament are you using?

3) Which side of that model is flat on the buildplate? Did you need supports?
 
1) Your ESC is turned around? Is that to accommodate the deans plug adapter?

2) What printer and filament are you using?

3) Which side of that model is flat on the buildplate? Did you need supports?

How do we know it's not your esc that's backwards? :ROFLMAO:

Good eye, but you missed the most important part of the esc, and that's the location.. its mounted down in the tub instead of up on the rx box.. hated that! On the typhon the body was always against the wire caps and always put stress on them.. no idea why they mounted it like that.. would love to know the reason.. wiring is much more manageable now.. its cleaner and that tiny bit of wieght is now lower on the cg... not sure why they molded the mount into the tub but didnt use it...

That was printed on my 200 dollar creality ender 3, my cr10 and crx were busy...
Carbon fiber pla+ with a .1 layer hieght..
Printed in the same orientation as it was installed, tree support setup with a .2 z hieght..
 
How do we know it's not your esc that's backwards? :ROFLMAO:

Good eye, but you missed the most important part of the esc, and that's the location.. its mounted down in the tub instead of up on the rx box.. hated that! On the typhon the body was always against the wire caps and always put stress on them.. no idea why they mounted it like that.. would love to know the reason.. wiring is much more manageable now.. its cleaner and that tiny bit of wieght is now lower on the cg... not sure why they molded the mount into the tub but didnt use it...

That was printed on my 200 dollar creality ender 3, my cr10 and crx were busy...
Carbon fiber pla+ with a .1 layer hieght..
Printed in the same orientation as it was installed, tree support setup with a .2 z hieght..
I have an Ender 5. Just got it a few weeks ago. First 3D printer I’ve owned or used. Got some upgrades for it that I need to install soon. New mainboard, motor dampeners, and a hot end LED lamp.
 
Let the fun begin... the ender 5 is a very capable machine.. what did you get for a main board and why? Something with better drivers? That print is literally of a bone stock ender 3... no dampers, no board change, only different thing is the capricorn ptfe... if you havnt gotten any yet I suggest you do.. that white ptfe goes bad quick.. and anything above 240c (abs temps) on the hot end will cause it to gas off, and that's not good for you at all... it's good to like 300c before it degrades, and lasts a really long time (months) if your bed hieght is correct...

If you need any help with it let me know I'd be glad to help.. but like I said that printer is very capable out the box..
I'm in thingiverse as well under the same user name..

Forgot to mention, the quality of the prints falls solely on the shoulders of good settings and understanding them.. not the cost or brand of the machine...
 
My Ender 5 is way too loud out of the box. Mine sits on my desk in the loft, which is open to the living room below. It didn’t bother me at first, but when you have a 12 hour print going and all you hear in the house is steppers, it gets annoying quickly.

This new mainboard has better stepper drivers that will quiet them greatly. There are other features as well, but making the steppers quiet was my sole factor for spending $25.

 
That makes sense.. they can get quite annoying when they are within ear shot....mike makes some good videos, and he is very thorough.. nice to have ya in the 3d printing world man.. it's crazy how often you will use it just for stuff around the house.. it's like ace hardware on your table...lol...
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top