Why would this happen?

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SenorWickedStix

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton EXB
  2. Typhon 3s
Any ideas why this is happening only on one side? (Apparently I switched the boogered out drive to the other side when I rebuilt the front diff). Also should this be replaced?

35307456-FE2B-486E-AF16-0DA8B1AA67BA.jpeg
 
Yeah droop screws, but your front bulkhead looks broken.
 
Yeah droop screws, but your front bulkhead looks broken.
Won’t the droop screws prevent the arm from going down m, not up into the out drive?

Also what’s the front bulk head? Sorry I’m just learning the RC world. First one fancy one in 30 some years. Lol.
Looking at the droop screws are they supposed to have the head of the screw on the bottom of the arm or top?
 
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Won’t the droop screws prevent the arm from going down m, not up into the out drive?

Also what’s the front bulk head? Sorry I’m just learning the RC world. First one fancy one in 30 some years. Lol.
Looking at the droop screws are they supposed to have the head of the screw on the bottom of the arm or top?
Oh shoot no not the droop screws.

Take the rod ends off the front shocks and put one of these on the shock shaft then put the rod end back on https://www.amainhobbies.com/axial-...uChMapYIHKU9Qb0ZC8EGP7QmZKBz-XERoCruwQAvD_BwE

This looks broken.

35307456-FE2B-486E-AF16-0DA8B1AA67BA.jpg
 
Would you mind elaborating a little? Why are those needed? Are they rubber or plastic?
They limit the up travel of the shocks, stock they have a little too much uptravel that is what causes the diff cups to dig into the a arms. They are rubber of some sort. Don't use plastic or anything hard, you want something that can absorb the shock.
 
Oh shoot no not the droop screws.

Take the rod ends off the front shocks and put one of these on the shock shaft then put the rod end back on https://www.amainhobbies.com/axial-...uChMapYIHKU9Qb0ZC8EGP7QmZKBz-XERoCruwQAvD_BwE

This looks broken.

View attachment 260457
Indeed.. good eye! I didn’t even notice that!!! Looks like the cover broke! If that’s the case. I have a few new ones that you are more than welcome to have! Free! Just message me!

Edit

Droop screws limit the amount of suspension travel. It would be a grub screw on the lower arm close to the output shaft… along with you can also use nitro fuel to limit the shock travel. I prefer automotive grade fuel line “rubber” it’s more stiffer than the nitro tube.
 
Oh shoot no not the droop screws.

Take the rod ends off the front shocks and put one of these on the shock shaft then put the rod end back on https://www.amainhobbies.com/axial-...uChMapYIHKU9Qb0ZC8EGP7QmZKBz-XERoCruwQAvD_BwE

This looks broken.

View attachment 260457
Good eyes there!! I bet that gearbox has quite a bit of dirt in it too..😬 not good for ring/pinion.
Heck yeah! Bump stops will help a ton.. can use nitro fuel tubing as well..👍
Pivot ball spacer removal has helped the most for me thus far.. thanks for that tip🍻
I used some orange shock o rings I had from one of those Hobbypark box o bits off of Amazon..threw like 4 o rings on each shaft. Gotta keep an eye on the shock rod ends too, they bend and eventually crack. That allows the shock to compress too far, thus ejecting the cvd from the diff cups..
Do those dampers actually fit on the shock shafts? 3mm ID damper vs the 4mm shock shaft, just wondering if they hold up to be stretched out like that or they are a pain to get on.
They're silicone rubber I believe, should stretch no problem. Kaiju comes with similar installed on front shocks from factory.
 
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Do those dampers actually fit on the shock shafts? 3mm ID damper vs the 4mm shock shaft, just wondering if they hold up to be stretched out like that or they are a pain to get on.
Fuel line is only like 3mm id iirc so it should stretch and the outer diameter is greater than fuel tubing so it should last a bit longer.
 
Indeed.. good eye! I didn’t even notice that!!! Looks like the cover broke! If that’s the case. I have a few new ones that you are more than welcome to have! Free! Just message me!

Edit

Droop screws limit the amount of suspension travel. It would be a grub screw on the lower arm close to the output shaft… along with you can also use nitro fuel to limit the shock travel. I prefer automotive grade fuel line “rubber” it’s more stiffer than the nitro tube.
Oh man. That would be awesome. 😱😱 I think I’ll try some of the fuel line. Very easy for me to get local. 🙂 thank you.
Surprisingly no dirt in the case. Especially as dirty as the rest of the RC was. Lol
 
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For those wanting to use fuel line but don't want to use silicone nitro line, pick yourself up some 1/8" Tygon fuel line.. can be had at any auto parts or small engine retail shop..👍.. feet of it for cheap, more durable than the silicone tubing as well..
 
For those wanting to use fuel line but don't want to use silicone nitro line, pick yourself up some 1/8" Tygon fuel line.. can be had at any auto parts or small engine retail shop..👍.. feet of it for cheap, more durable than the silicone tubing as well..
Tygon makes some good tubing, I remember it being some of the highest quality tubing available back when I had a water cooled pc. Most of it was lab grade.
 
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