Will the XLX2 and 1100kv Castle blow up the drivetrain?

[SrC]

I highly suggest Radio Control Power for the QS8 or bullets they are on eBay or look them up online. Can't list websites for you as I'll get in trouble for advertising but great prices and fast shipping.

I recommend Radiocontrol power.
I like their goods and prices.
https://www.radiocontrolpower.com/series-connectors
@MikeAA, baby steps. Replace as need be. In the beginning I would replace with OE parts. If they repetitively break and clearly not driving error for the most part, I will use upgrade parts. Upgrade parts aren't always the best option if they break also, even though they look nicer. OE spares are cheap enough to replace if they break here and there. No rig is break proof.

Awesome. I'm expecting top have to upgrade parts, but I'm not sure where the greatest stresses will be. So, rather than dropping $600 on M2C everything hopefully I can start with the most critical and work back .

^^^

 

[Armarookie43]

Awesome. I'm expecting top have to upgrade parts, but I'm not sure where the greatest stresses will be. So, rather than dropping $600 on M2C everything hopefully I can start with the most critical and work back .

Keep some Arrma aluminum diff cases handy (the ones that hold the gears). The composite ones split apart. I would suggest some carbon fiber tubes around the chassis braces before they bend like a banana. I managed to bend my EXB chassis with time. That's why I had to get an M2C one. The plastic chassis rod end that connects the transmission to the chassis brace breaks on big jumps sometimes. I replaced that one with an M2C metal one. Make sure your tires don't become unglued. I destroyed one of mine like that. Have fun!

 

[SrC]

Yeah, every single OE stocker T2 T brace I have CF sleeved. (All My 6S rigs) Cheap insurance. Now they don't bow out whatsoever. Many just go with solid upgrade CF $rods$. Not necessary. Just sleeve over the OE alloy ones. Problem solved.
I imagine a definite must on the OC8/K8 braces.

 

[Armarookie43]

Yeah, every single OE stocker T2 T brace I have CF sleeved. (All My 6S rigs) Cheap insurance. Now they don't bow out whatsoever. Many just go with solid upgrade CF $rods$. Not necessary. Just sleeve over the OE alloy ones. Problem solved.
I imagine a definite must on the OC8/K8 braces.

Yeah absolutely they are needed (the carbon fiber tubes).

 

[PaperBoyRC]

Yeah absolutely they are needed (the carbon fiber tubes).

I imagine that has got to be lighter than aluminum as well. If you have a minute, could you share a link to a provider? Thanks!

 

[SrC]

CF is lighter than Alloy to some extent, if comparing a solid CF rod to Aloy rod. But the weight difference is like splitting hairs. Especially on a 30 pound 8s rig.

Sourcing a Proper inner diameter CF "hollow" Tubing sleeved over the existing alloy braces are more than adequate IMHO. Many do this.

 

[Armarookie43]

I imagine that has got to be lighter than aluminum as well. If you have a minute, could you share a link to a provider? Thanks!

I bought them off Amazon and cut them down to size. Let me get the link for you. I think two was enough. I used my dremel to cut them. Very easy to cut :
Carbon Fiber Tube 16mm(OD) 2mm Thickness,16mmx12mmx420mm 3K roll Wrapped Twill Matte Surface (2 pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08N3Y177...abc_ZXD0H130H748WBNVS0F8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[PaperBoyRC]

I bought them off Amazon and cut them down to size. Let me get the link for you. I think two was enough. I used my dremel to cut them. Very easy to cut :
Carbon Fiber Tube 16mm(OD) 2mm Thickness,16mmx12mmx420mm 3K roll Wrapped Twill Matte Surface (2 pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08N3Y177...abc_ZXD0H130H748WBNVS0F8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks @Armarookie43 ! It is really nice to have you guys online with tips like this. I appreciate it

 

[Armarookie43]

Thanks @Armarookie43 ! It is really nice to have you guys online with tips like this. I appreciate it

I'm just passing it on. I got that tip from the good people here . I know that it's going to save you some time and $ for more bashing time

 

[PaperBoyRC]

Hooooly smokes it arrived early! A few more parts to arrive in the next week or so and the tinkering fun will begin!

 

[Yasaboss]

View attachment 174090
Hooooly smokes it arrived early! A few more parts to arrive in the next week or so and the tinkering fun will begin!

Check your diffs! I literally just put this set up in my K8 Exb and haven't even run 2 packs and either the center or rear end is now popping and clicking on less than 45min run time out of the box. 30/39 and 130c Batts.

 

[PaperBoyRC]

Check your diffs! I literally just put this set up in my K8 Exb and haven't even run 2 packs and either the center or rear end is now popping and clicking on less than 45min run time out of the box. 30/39 and 130c Batts.

Oh no! Does the 130c increase the voltage to the ESC/motor? I'll be running 100c. Did it strip a diff gear? Thanks for the heads up!!

 

[Yasaboss]

Oh no! Does the 130c increase the voltage to the ESC/motor? I'll be running 100c. Did it strip a diff gear? Thanks for the heads up!!

I'm not sure yet, it started popping and clicking so I stopped after confirming it thats what it was so I don't tear it up too bad, happened right at dark last night so I haven't tore into it yet, but I've torn a rear end or two out of normal cars and trucks and it sound like some teeth are missing or something awful going on in there.

 

[PaperBoyRC]

I'm not sure yet, it started popping and clicking so I stopped after confirming it thats what it was so I don't tear it up too bad, happened right at dark last night so I haven't tore into it yet, but I've torn a rear end or two out of normal cars and trucks and it sound like some teeth are missing or something awful going on in there.

Gotcha. Please let me know what you find! Thanks in advance

 

[PaperBoyRC]

Mounting the motor: Will I need a slider like this for the screws on the slider to align to the motor screw holes? And will this slider fit the stock motor mount? Thanks guys!

https://www.horizonhobby.com/produc...GaIgqpOGnKnsbXlLeEkPV_ev93_iuWaxoCxTUQAvD_BwE

 

[Yasaboss]

Gotcha. Please let me know what you find! Thanks in advance

Hey man, this is what I found, the screws simply backed out of the diff... I guess they didn't tighten them or thread lock them. Pushed some diff gear out, out and that's it.
It's back in business now.
It's a animal with this set up

 

[PaperBoyRC]

@Yasaboss Great to hear!!! Hopefully without bashing it too crazily it will be a reliable speed truck for me. Cannot wait.

 

[Armarookie43]

Gotcha. Please let me know what you find! Thanks in advance

Use red loctite on the center diff. I've destroyed at least two center diffs because I only used blue loctite. Same thing for the Arrma aluminum diff cases if you get them. The bolts also came loose with blue loctite no matter how hard it I tightened them

 

[PaperBoyRC]

Use red loctite on the center diff. I've destroyed at least two center diffs because I only used blue loctite. Same thing for the Arrma aluminum diff cases if you get them. The boots also came loose with blue loctite no matter how hard it I tightened them

Thanks @Armarookie43 ! I assume the diff screws @Yasaboss mentioned are the ones in need of the red ol tite?

 

[Armarookie43]

Thanks @Armarookie43 ! I assume the diff screws @Yasaboss mentioned are the ones in need of the red ol tite?

Pertaining to the center diff yes.