Kraton Wing mount screws keep snapping in half

[carckton driver]

The screws to my wing mount keep snapping off in the bulkhead. This is the second time in 2 battery packs they have snapped off. The oem screws bent badly so i replaced them with some screws i had from an rc screws kit from and old ass hpi savage but the screws were the exact same size. The first time they snapped off one of the screws snapped flush with the bulkhead so i had tear apart the whole rear end to get at the broken screw then spend 2 hours getting it out doing as little damage to the bulkhead as possible. Luckily this time it looks like they are flush with the backside of the shock tower (as kinda shown in picture) so once i remove that i should be able to get some vice grips on it and unscrew it. How the hell do i stop screws from snapping off in the bulkhead? Obviously i need better screws but if you can find better screws in an rc screws kit where the hell do you find them? Has rc screws significantly improved their quality in the last 10-15 years? Please help.
Btw i swear i pisted this already but it doesn't show up anywhere that i see so my apologies if this is a double post.

 

[Tex Koder]

The screws to my wing mount keep snapping off in the bulkhead. This is the second time in 2 battery packs they have snapped off. The oem screws bent badly so i replaced them with some screws i had from an rc screws kit from and old ass hpi savage but the screws were the exact same size. The first time they snapped off one of the screws snapped flush with the bulkhead so i had tear apart the whole rear end to get at the broken screw then spend 2 hours getting it out doing as little damage to the bulkhead as possible. Luckily this time it looks like they are flush with the backside of the shock tower (as kinda shown in picture) so once i remove that i should be able to get some vice grips on it and unscrew it. How the hell do i stop screws from snapping off in the bulkhead? Obviously i need better screws but if you can find better screws in an rc screws kit where the hell do you find them? Has rc screws significantly improved their quality in the last 10-15 years? Please help.
Btw i swear i pisted this already but it doesn't show up anywhere that i see so my apologies if this is a double post.

View attachment 237177

Find some plastic or rubber bushings to put between the shock tower and wing arms to help "cushion" the impacts..

or invest in some @3d-rc.myshopify.com 's Wing Mount that'll definitely take the impacts
and alleviate the screws from snapping so often.

 

[SrC]

The screws to my wing mount keep snapping off in the bulkhead. This is the second time in 2 battery packs they have snapped off. The oem screws bent badly so i replaced them with some screws i had from an rc screws kit from and old ass hpi savage but the screws were the exact same size. The first time they snapped off one of the screws snapped flush with the bulkhead so i had tear apart the whole rear end to get at the broken screw then spend 2 hours getting it out doing as little damage to the bulkhead as possible. Luckily this time it looks like they are flush with the backside of the shock tower (as kinda shown in picture) so once i remove that i should be able to get some vice grips on it and unscrew it. How the hell do i stop screws from snapping off in the bulkhead? Obviously i need better screws but if you can find better screws in an rc screws kit where the hell do you find them? Has rc screws significantly improved their quality in the last 10-15 years? Please help.
Btw i swear i pisted this already but it doesn't show up anywhere that i see so my apologies if this is a double post.

View attachment 237177

RC Screwz kits are cheap and softer than the stocker 12.9 Grade OE screws. Use the stocker screws. SS screws in general are always softer metal. Not a good choice for basher rigs.

TBH, you are not driving well. Slow it down perhaps?? Driver error.

No reason to shear off these screws Easily and often. Sure it happens. However those Cheapo RC Screwz you are using will shear off like butter. Every time with driver error.
The second time was more likely due to a combination of the soft SS Screwz and driver error.

Just use stock screws. Many use longer screws and place nuts at the ends.
Use 12.9 grade steel screws only on all of your rig. Stock screws are best for the 6s line of Arrma rigs IMHO.

 

[jipper]

If you want the strongest 12.9 go with Unbrako. We use them in helicopter and fighter jet camera systems for the film industry. They are in a class of there own. Even the driver hex is deeper allowing more tool to be inserted for greater torque and less chance of stripping when removing.

https://www.unbrakousa.com/#

 

[SrC]

^^^
Great find. Thanx for sharing that. Always looking for that better hardware.
YSF a Taiwan Hardware company is what Arrma uses for their 6s line. Quality stuff believe it or not.
I believe the Arrma 4X4 line only use 10.9 Grade hardware, FWIW. Less strong. On par for its pricepoint and lighter weight I guess?
RC hardware are consumables anyway. You need spares on hand.
I usually get mine from JennysRC. Take Off hardware sets.
McMaster-Carr also makes decent hardware if you need specific screws that commonly wear out/strip or break. i.e. Motor mount meshing screws.
Tip:
Get Socket head screws for the 6s Motor mounts. With Larger 3mm Hex's. Many commonly do this. Nothing new.
The stocker Button Head hex screws suck with 2.5mm hexes. Button head hexes are too shallow and small. Stripping out. Beware using them. I use Blue TL #243 on these 2 M. Mount screws. So I heat them up Before wrenching them Off.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

To translate some of the above replies: the stock wing is not nearly as flexible as it should be. If you're taking hits on the rear of your kraton often, then i'd expect it to continue breaking under the same circumstances. Finding stronger screws is likely not going to be the answer here, imo. The plastic mount is stiff, so stronger screws could just end up transferring that force to the shock tower or bulkheads, which would be a worse scenario.

My thoughts on your options: #1 find a way to DIY the situation so that you can easily replace those bolts every time it breaks (like a circuit breaker), #2 get a softer wing mount, or #3 run without the wing. #4 option is to not hit the tail of the kraton as often, but I understand that's not always easy to do.

If you expect more hits like that, i'd invest in a much softer wing mount like @Tex Koder said. Those will flex like they should and "absorb" impacts, rather than snap or transfer the force to the shock tower. I think that will be your best bang for buck decision here.

 

[rcaddic88]

The factory wong mount is one of the kraton‘s only real out of the box design flaws… but easy to fix. The rigid wing mount coupled with a particularly unneeded ly large and high wing design requires a replacement of either the stock wing or it’s mount almost every significant session!. The RPM mount is much more flexible and while it eventually will break, it takes much longer. Unfortunately though it doesn’t break, the wing to mount fasteners tear through running the wing almost as often. usually you can get away using bigger and bigger washers for a bit, but it’s not ideal.
this was just the way it was for a long time, until these new PLU printed parts started being made. I use the 3drc but there may be others. These are so flexible, they not only don’t break or crack, they prevent wing rip out. it’s amazing how completely a $12 dollar part so completely solved such a pain in the but issue. they even make a low profile talion style one now too so you can reduce the wear and tear on the wings themselves. I have heard of occasional issues but only on the most extreme case. my only reservation lies in a small possible increase chance to shock tower damage from reduction in impact protection because of the more flexible mount. I use a Kydex style rear bumper on all my 6s arrmas anyway, which reduces damage to tower snd car in general during high speed cartwheels and rear landings. This is a great add to any Truggy basher. Some people just run with the wing off and think it’s just cosmetic, but a outcast with no wing mount or anything else has a really exposed shock tower and has a high chance of damaging it or bulkheads, shocks etc, so keep the runs short wingless guts!

 

[SrC]

To translate some of the above replies: the stock wing is not nearly as flexible as it should be. If you're taking hits on the rear of your kraton often, then i'd expect it to continue breaking under the same circumstances. Finding stronger screws is likely not going to be the answer here, imo. The plastic mount is stiff, so stronger screws could just end up transferring that force to the shock tower or bulkheads, which would be a worse scenario.

My thoughts on your options: #1 find a way to DIY the situation so that you can easily replace those bolts every time it breaks (like a circuit breaker), #2 get a softer wing mount, or #3 run without the wing. #4 option is to not hit the tail of the kraton as often, but I understand that's not always easy to do.

If you expect more hits like that, i'd invest in a much softer wing mount like @Tex Koder said. Those will flex like they should and "absorb" impacts, rather than snap or transfer the force to the shock tower. I think that will be your best bang for buck decision here.

3dRC makes nice mounts. Try those. Everyone on AF loves them.
I don't have them, as I don't break any of mine as of late. I have spares of RPM's and Stockers. Been boiling the RPM Pure Nylon ones and they flex ok. I drive better now and my W. Mounts have not been an issue for me. You need the wing and W. mounts to protect the rear Tower and Bulkhead from more $$ damage. Don't remove it. You will regret that for sure.

 

[hobo]

try not to land on the wing that will stop them from braking

 

[SrC]

It's always driver error............
At some point just accept it and work on your skills. I don't believe in upgrading every single part that breaks, because of my stupid driving.
$Upgrading$ sometimes become a crutch for poor driving skills. And things will still break anyway. Wheel time makes you a better driver. Sometimes dropping to a 4s lipo for example, over running 6s will help develope those skills. What I do. Less wear and tear and damage to the whole rig. Know your limits.

 

[carckton driver]

Find some plastic or rubber bushings to put between the shock tower and wing arms to help "cushion" the impacts..

or invest in some @3d-rc.myshopify.com 's Wing Mount that'll definitely take the impacts
and elevate the screws from snapping so often

How do i get rid of a quote i accidentally put in to a reply

 

[Tex Koder]

How do i get rid of a quote i accidentally put in to a reply

Just highlight the whole quote and hit "delete"

 

[Fallguy]

If you want the strongest 12.9 go with Unbrako. We use them in helicopter and fighter jet camera systems for the film industry. They are in a class of there own. Even the driver hex is deeper allowing more tool to be inserted for greater torque and less chance of stripping when removing.

https://www.unbrakousa.com/#

Camera dept I'm assuming? I'm in the film industry as well.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

It's always driver error............
At some point just accept it and work on your skills. I don't believe in upgrading every single part that breaks, because of my stupid driving.
$Upgrading$ sometimes become a crutch for poor driving skills. And things will still break anyway. Wheel time makes you a better driver. Sometimes dropping to a 4s lipo for example, over running 6s will help develope those skills. What I do. Less wear and tear and damage to the whole rig. Know your limits.

Ultimately yes. In a perfect world, a good driver could get away with no wing or wing mount. After i got accustomed to my KEXB, i haven't had a big tail hit in a while to test the wing mount.

But accidents do happen, no one is perfect. It's bound to happen to you at some point, which is why running any wing mount would be preferred over none. HOWEVER, if the same accidents are repeated often, agreed it becomes less of an accident and more of user error.

 

[carckton driver]

Find some plastic or rubber bushings to put between the shock tower and wing arms to help "cushion" the impacts..

or invest in some @3d-rc.myshopify.com 's Wing Mount that'll definitely take the impacts
and elevate the screws from snapping so often.

How the heck would you fit anything to cushion the blow between the 2 parts? Just pry the up and away from the shock tower? It seems like such a tight fit.

RC Screwz kits are cheap and softer than the stocker 12.9 Grade OE screws. Use the stocker screws. SS screws in general are always softer metal. Not a good choice for basher rigs.

TBH, you are not driving well. Slow it down perhaps?? Driver error.

No reason to shear off these screws Easily and often. Sure it happens. However those Cheapo RC Screwz you are using will shear off like butter. Every time with driver error.
The second time was more likely due to a combination of the soft SS Screwz and driver error.

Just use stock screws. Many use longer screws and place nuts at the ends.
Use 12.9 grade steel screws only on all of your rig. Stock screws are best for the 6s line of Arrma rigs IMHO.

This apllies to a few other comments made as well but i have never had an rc car like this before (this big/heavy or fast). I just built a ramp a few days ago (see picture) and im getting a feel for launching it off it. Yes my skill needs to be improved.

The factory wong mount is one of the kraton‘s only real out of the box design flaws… but easy to fix. The rigid wing mount coupled with a particularly unneeded ly large and high wing design requires a replacement of either the stock wing or it’s mount almost every significant session!. The RPM mount is much more flexible and while it eventually will break, it takes much longer. Unfortunately though it doesn’t break, the wing to mount fasteners tear through running the wing almost as often. usually you can get away using bigger and bigger washers for a bit, but it’s not ideal.
this was just the way it was for a long time, until these new PLU printed parts started being made. I use the 3drc but there may be others. These are so flexible, they not only don’t break or crack, they prevent wing rip out. it’s amazing how completely a $12 dollar part so completely solved such a pain in the but issue. they even make a low profile talion style one now too so you can reduce the wear and tear on the wings themselves. I have heard of occasional issues but only on the most extreme case. my only reservation lies in a small possible increase chance to shock tower damage from reduction in impact protection because of the more flexible mount. I use a Kydex style rear bumper on all my 6s arrmas anyway, which reduces damage to tower snd car in general during high speed cartwheels and rear landings. This is a great add to any Truggy basher. Some people just run with the wing off and think it’s just cosmetic, but a outcast with no wing mount or anything else has a really exposed shock tower and has a high chance of damaging it or bulkheads, shocks etc, so keep the runs short wingless guts!

Whats a "kydex style rear bumper"? Got a link? saw a dude on youtube modify the exb front bumper to fit the rear. I have one on the front and am very pleased with it so i was thinking about doing that but its ugly AF and you have to trim a significant section of the bumper to allow clearance for thenwheelie bar making it even more ugly.

 

[jipper]

Camera dept I'm assuming? I'm in the film industry as well.

Yup, aerial camera tech and DP. Our Shotover gimbal systems are good to 350knots and 3G’s.

How the heck would you fit anything to cushion the blow between the 2 parts? Just pry the up and away from the shock tower? It seems like such a tight fit.

This apllies to a few other comments made as well but i have never had an rc car like this before (this big/heavy or fast). I just built a ramp a few days ago (see picture) and im getting a feel for launching it off it. Yes my skill needs to be improved.

Whats a "kydex style rear bumper"? Got a link? saw a dude on youtube modify the exb front bumper to fit the rear. I have one on the front and am very pleased with it so i was thinking about doing that but its ugly AF and you have to trim a significant section of the bumper to allow clearance for thenwheelie bar making it even more ugly.

View attachment 237191

The RPM front bumper fits great. I run it on my rig.

 

[KevinC]

All good points here.
as @SrC stated above, put longer screws through your wing mount and capture them with nylon nuts on the other side. You may still break the screws but they will be easier to extract.
And yes, the RPM front bumper is a direct fit for the rear.

 

[dk3000]

100% just get these 3d-rc.myshopify.com and improve on those landings, everything else has been said

 

[carckton driver]

Well im definately in the market for a new wing mount, now. I went out in the yard just to drive it around. I figured i was safe with the broken wing mount since i was only driving in a flat lawn and i figured who knows how many times that car has tumbled before i noticed the broken screws. Well, i hit the brakes as it went over a bump or something and it cartwheeled for about 10-15 feet and it snaped the wing right off the car and bent the shock tower slightly. Figures the one time i took it out with a known issue it would bite me in the butt . So the overwhelming response is the 3drc mount but i have a few options for shock towers. Jennysrc has a set of the black oem towers for $10 a set or the red EXB towers for $35 or do i just pony up and get m2c tower for $48? $10 plus $5 for shipping from jennys for the stock rtr tower is hard to beat, then i can also grab a screw kit along with it. What route would you guys go with?

 

[Hector_Fisher]

Sounds like you've learned a lesson about the extent of the cars capabilities! As such, I suspect that would be less likely to happen again. So I would replace with stock personally.
I usually opt for stock stuff since it's generally cheap and available. Also I generally don't have the money to be dropping on expensive M2c stuff....